Where can I buy pure ammonia? - Page 3 - Betta Fish and Betta Fish Care
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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-02-2012, 10:57 PM
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Either your fish is stressed out a lot or your water quality is very poor. Non-cycled water, from my knowledge, does not cause fin rot. But I already agreed that cycling your tank is good, but not necessary if you carry out with bi-daily partial water changes. Your fish probably has a bacterial infection, so I don't think a cycle tank solves that at this moment. Your fish needs PWC and treatment. One last thing, be sure the water you use to do PWC is dechlorinated and similar if not exact to the tank water. Usually when fish are stress or have poor water conditions, this increases chance of disease such as fin rot. Fish can live in non-cycled tank, but like I said, it needs daily pwc. And when you do pwc, you have to be subtle about causing stress to the fish as his home is small and he will experience an earthquake lol. Good luck and good day.
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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-02-2012, 11:02 PM
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Also note none cycled tanks need to be cleaned 100% once a week as well. Thought I would add it since you didn't mention that.

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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-02-2012, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Pilot00 View Post
Duh...LOL.

I mean isn't better to let it occur naturally? IMHO at least.
Ummmmmm..... How is a fish less cycle supposed to have naturally occurring ammonia? That's why we put ammonia in, to replicate the waste of fish.. Since there are no fish, there will be no ammonia...

I have always used Austin's Clear Ammonia. It has no sulfactants. Any kind of ammonia will work as long as it has ZERO SULFACTANTS. The dosing is different for each brand because each brand has a different percentage of ammonia.

I take one gallon of water, measure the amount of ammonia it takes to raise it to 4ppm, then do some math.. I will keep setting the ammonia level back to 4ppm anytime it drops until I get nitrite readings, then I cut the original amount I added to the tank to bring it to 4ppm and cut it in half. Add this amount EVERY DAY until you have zero ammonia and zero nitrite when you test. Test 12-24 hours after adding the ammonia. Toward the end, you will be able to dump pure ammonia into your tank, and if you feel like it, you can watch the level drop by testing it every half hour (just for fun, there is no reason to actually do this).
The two main reasons we do fish less cycles are as follows... 1. We don't kill or subject any fish to ammonia or nitrite poisoning to set up a tank... 2.. We can fully stock the aquarium safely after the cycle completes instead of slowly adding fish every couple weeks until you reach full stock levels...
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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-02-2012, 11:35 PM
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Also note none cycled tanks need to be cleaned 100% once a week as well. Thought I would add it since you didn't mention that.
I mean, when you start, you can cycle tank with fish and it's okay. At this time, it is a non-cycled tank. However, don't do 100% water changes as you will NEVER be able to establish a cycle tank. A cycled tank is the goal...Do 25% water changes just to keep the ammonia down. What I'm saying is, whether tank is cycle or not, I continue to do water changes. So, it really doesn't matter for me.
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-03-2012, 08:36 AM
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Ummmmmm..... How is a fish less cycle supposed to have naturally occurring ammonia? That's why we put ammonia in, to replicate the waste of fish.. Since there are no fish, there will be no ammonia...
As I said, even the most clean water contains particles of ammonia and other stuff, that are either added or are a byproduct of the water treatment companies, I think you can ask at the local offices for the parameters.
That said ammonia, is not something that sets in the water and remains in constant levels, it has a tendency to increase even without waste from fish. After all there all kinds of microorganisms in the water, simply leaving a couple of weeks without changes and you will have a spike.

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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-03-2012, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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As I said, even the most clean water contains particles of ammonia and other stuff, that are either added or are a byproduct of the water treatment companies, I think you can ask at the local offices for the parameters.
That said ammonia, is not something that sets in the water and remains in constant levels, it has a tendency to increase even without waste from fish. After all there all kinds of microorganisms in the water, simply leaving a couple of weeks without changes and you will have a spike.
It's a lot slower if you have to wait a few weeks just to have a spike. Also the bacteria won't be able to handle as much ammonia since I don't think the spike would reach the same levels of ammonia as when you put it directly in. If the spike wasn't high enough, then the bacteria might not be able to handle the ammonia from all the fish even if it is cycled. I could be wrong though since I don't know a lot about cycling, but from what I've read, I think this is true.


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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-03-2012, 07:37 PM
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I ve been using this method for more than a decade and I have never lost a fish, or failed to have acceptable parameters. To me its the safest, yet slowest method. I just don't like risks and want the tanks to mature on their own so to speak. As they say choose your poison.

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