Sorority! Need help! - Betta Fish and Betta Fish Care
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-11-2011, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Sorority! Need help!

Ok , I'm thinking about having a sorority in my 20 gal tall, it's heavily planted fake+real, I plan on adding more in the mean time. Well I have been reading up and I'd like to start a sorority in December. The tank is heated and filtered. I'm trying this and I have a few questions

1. How do you choose your girls?
2. How long do you recommend for qt
3. Any odd information I should be aware of?
4. Best time Frame for obtaining them? (should I get them all at once? Does it matter?)

Any advice on experience is BEST as I'd like to see how other people felt with this.

He is richest who is content with the least, for content is the wealth of nature
- Socrates
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-11-2011, 10:47 PM
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My sorority shouldn't be held as a common experience since there has literally been no major fights of any sort with the current girls. They're all very laid back (read: too fat to care).

It's good to have a week for quarantine because that gives you plenty of time to see if anyone's sick.

So long as you introduce them correctly, it shouldn't matter too much on when you get them.

Generally, for females ina sorority setting, you're looking for:
-Docile/submissive behavior (Excuse the aggression for the first contact as it's probably been a while since they've experienced living in a group, just watch closely, you'll be able to tell when it's too much)
- Similar size (There are some girls that don't care, but it's generally best to keep them in the same size range)
- Younger in age (Less time spent in solitary living, so getting back to group living is easier)
- Inquisitive/ interactive

Submissive behavior is vertical bars, backing down from flaring, swimming with head down, etc.

sometimes the girls will act like that in the cups, but when they're together it's completely different. Lyra is a good example of that. She was tiny and submissive for the first 3 minutes, but then she turned into a horrible monster and attacked everyone. She lives on her own now because she was still the same for try 2.

A good way to introduce it to have them float fora few hours so they can see each other. Then release the least aggressive first and continue in that order.

If you're adding any new females to an established sorority, it's best to take everyone out, redecorate, and then introduce like they were all new.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-11-2011, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you I'm pretty sure in december I will tackle this so If anyone else has any advice let me know .

He is richest who is content with the least, for content is the wealth of nature
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anitax3x View Post
1. How do you choose your girls?
2. How long do you recommend for qt
3. Any odd information I should be aware of?
4. Best time Frame for obtaining them? (should I get them all at once? Does it matter?)
I agree with Pataflafla - each sorority is different, so it's difficult to say "mine is the model you should follow". Here's my experience:

1) I chose my girls on a whim. I walked into a shop I didn't really like, to see if they'd improved (and to sneakily test out employee's knowledge and educate them...bad me ). I saw 10 poor girls in a tank without any shelter and with far too much water movement, all stressed out and shy. They totally lacked colour and I knew no-one would buy them in that state. I chose 6 and took them home. The woman put them all in the same bag and I added them all to my tank from that bag without ever separating them.

2) I didn't. I'm a bad person. :( I think the usual time is 2 weeks? I'm not sure, though.

3) Learn the signs. Study them carefully and figure out what makes them tick, so you can notice any badness as soon as it starts. Especially keep an eye out for sick girls, who will be picked on. Sororities are always easier with siblings or girls who are used to living together.
Expect the colour of girls in the shop to change dramatically when they get in a nice, spacious, heated, filtered tank. :)

4) All at once is easier, but at different times won't damn the sorority to failure. Just make sure that you remove all the females, re-arrange the decor and then re-add them all at the same time so that no one tries to claim a spot as hers.

Life.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 12:24 AM
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Sorry, just want to add:
Pataflafla - I've always been told that vertical stripes were a sign of readiness to breed and/or dominance. Certainly my alpha female has much bolder stripes than the omega (not that any of them are aggressive at all).

Life.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 12:29 AM
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Don't be discouraged. It can take several tries to get them introduced properly. I had to remove and reintroduce my girls 3 times. A rule of thumb that I was told is to get to know their natures as best as you can. When you introduce or reintroduce them, add the most submissive picked-on girl in first and let her swim around by herself for a short time. Then add the next most submissive girl etc. until you finally add the most aggressive girl in last. By then, the other girls have had a chance to establish some territory or familiarity with the tank and the last girl in is also the odd girl out. This tends to curb the aggression for the most aggressive girl.

Also, I've been told to feed the girls before adding them. Full and fat girls are less likely to be grumpy and ready to fight.

Nipping and chasing is normal. What you want to see in the first few hours is nipping and chasing and girls backing down from each other. You may need to pull one girl or all girls out if you see a few girls really going at it, not backing down from each other. You may see them turn around and slap at each other witht their tails. This isn't so good. This is when you remove them and try again later.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Bombalurina View Post
Sorry, just want to add:
Pataflafla - I've always been told that vertical stripes were a sign of readiness to breed and/or dominance. Certainly my alpha female has much bolder stripes than the omega (not that any of them are aggressive at all).
One of my girls, the lowest in the sorority, is really quick at showing bars and changing color (She'll go from dark brown to tan is like 2 seconds). I've seen her be chased behind the cave, come out only a second later with bright vertical bars, and all chasing stops immediately.

They are signs of readiness to breed, but it would make more sense that it's a submissive behavior since aggression would mean fighting instead of breeding. I think it's more of a "I give up, let's not fight" sort of deal.

Horizontal stripes are indicators of stress usually, but vertical is submission/ readiness to breed, in my opinion.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks so much everyone!

He is richest who is content with the least, for content is the wealth of nature
- Socrates
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