Sorry for coming into this late. Wanted to catch a few things that were mentioned.
Wire cages make great homes for mice (as mentioned) because they allow for airflow to evaporate the urine (smells less, healthier for the mouse's lungs). You'll have to be vigilant if you do get one with a plastic bottom. Mice can be chewers if they're bored, so make sure to check the tray whenever you clean it to be sure that they aren't trying to tunnel out. Also, watch the bar spacing on the wires. If a mouse can get its head through the wires, the rest of the body can follow. I don't recommend Critter Trail style cages for mice. Too difficult to clean with all of those tubes and the mice tend to get gunky from the buildup of stuff in them.
You will want to clean the cage weekly at least, or it will start to smell. Carefresh and other paper products work great, but can be on the expensive end of things. Aspen is more cost effective, but isn't as liquid and odor absorbent. Whichever you choose, make sure to have the bedding about 2 inches deep. The mice will make tunnels in it which helps to alleviate boredom. I'll also add the caution about cedar and pine. Both of these woods come from evergreens which have a very potent sap. Putting animals of any kind on them can cause respiratory distress and lung damage. It'd be like us breathing in pinesol all the time. Smells great, but that's the only good thing about it.
When you go to clean the cage, you can use a little vinegar and water or lemon juice and water to disinfect it. If you really need to get it super clean, you can use Dawn dishsoap, just make sure to wash everything thoroughly.
Plastic wheels, houses and shelves work great, though I do recommend that you get a wide ceramic food dish for them. They like to dig through their food and the wide dish makes it less likely that they will spill it over the sides (especially if you don't fill it all of the way. I use ceramic because it's easily washable and the mice cant destroy it by mistaking it for the food that's in it. Either get a water bottle that mounts on the outside of the cage, or get a glass one. Mice are notorious for damaging their water bottles.
As far as food goes, I'm a big fan of Mazuri rodent foods (I'd say Oxbow too, but they don't make a mouse food.). My guinea pigs, chinchillas, and mice all get fed Mazuri brand foods. There aren't any seeds, artificial colors, or artificial flavors. It comes in a block form to guarantee that the mice get a balanced diet. If you feed seed mixes, they tend to eat all the fattiest bits and leave (or hide/bury) the rest. Sunflower seeds, peanuts, etc. which can lead to health problems down the road (overweight, fatty tumors, etc.). These are good as treats, but not as a regular food.
If you're planning on only having a single mouse, go with a male. The males, while social if there are females present, will fight if the only other mouse is another male. Because of the way mouse society works, males will often be by themselves, and can be kept this way in a captive setting. The females on the other hand should be kept in a pair at least, 4 or more is better. They are highly social and will be timid and frightened if kept by themselves.
As far as the ball goes. Yes, they can be dangerous to little mousy toes, so they are generally not a good idea. There are alternatives, though. I know I dissed the Critter Trail's tubes, but this is one exception I'd make:
As the mouse walks around the circle tube, it spins around the center tube. Most of the air exchange inside the tubes happens along the seam. Very little to no danger for the mouse while it enjoys itself. You can even put multiple mice in at one time, which you can't do in a ball.
Another option is the Critter Cruiser:
All of the air holes are in the sides with none on the running surface itself, but it only gives the animal two directions to run in. And, just like the ball, you can only have one mouse in it at a time.
Hope the info helps.