New add't to the family "Oranda's" - Page 2 - Betta Fish and Betta Fish Care
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-12-2012, 01:13 AM
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You could get a big plastic storage tub. :) They come in lots of large sizes and can be tucked discreetly away in places. Alternatively, if it's warm enough where you are, a kiddy pool outdoors would do the job.

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-12-2012, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE! I recently brought 30G tank for my 4 Orandas today :) But that only thing is it doesnt have light. How important is it for my tank to have light? The tank is in my room which I keep well lit at night, but I do turn it off when I sleep at night. Would having the light off harm my goldies? However, it does have everything else such as submersable heater, thermometer, gravel, some plastic decor, and Bio Wheel power filter penguin 200. I'm supper excited about this upgrading tank situation. I truely feel less panicky about caring for them. ^_______^
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-12-2012, 11:13 PM
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The 30 gal will hold them for a while and should be able to establish a cycle with that filter (I had it on my goldfish tank for a few years), but you're still going to need a larger tank in a few months. As for the light, fish just like humans need a day/night cycle, so they will need a minimum of 8 hours of total darkness. Ambient light from the room is just fine, and is probably better than an overhead light because it won't promote algae.

The other thing you are missing is a liquid test kit. The API Freshwater Master is best. Since your tank is in the process of cycling, this is a must. It will tell you when your cycle is finished and when your water is toxic to the fish and you need to do a water change.

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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-13-2012, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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@ thekoimaiden - thanks for that info! But I do have the API test kit already ^_^ for this size of a tank, 50% WC ok? thanks again.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-13-2012, 01:15 AM
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Glad you've got the API test kit. You're going to burning through the ammonia and nitrite ones!

A 50% water change weekly is minimum with goldfish tanks. Since you are cycling, you're going to be doing them at least twice a week and probably more. Any time the ammonia or nitrite gets above 0.25 ppm do a water change.

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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-14-2012, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
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I had just transfered my 4 orandas to their new home, I had left the water filter run overnight, and my airstones. I wanted to make sure water was well circulated and that everything is working. I notice that my babies seems to be grasping for air more, Im not sure if its because the airpump is not producing more airbubbles, and that they are lacking oxygen :( if that is that case. Can anyone suggest a good airbubble product for 30G tank. Thank you ALL ^______^
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-14-2012, 11:30 AM
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Gasping for air (also known as piping) is a sign they aren't getting enough oxygen. Since you have a bubbler in there, the water should be oxygenated enough unless it is really hot (higher than 80F). Piping is also a symptom of ammonia poisoning and gill parasites as both of these reduce the ability of the gills to take oxygen. Have you tested the ammonia and nitrite?

---Izzy

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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-14-2012, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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I forgot to mention that the bubbler I have is for 20G, I got that when I only had 10G. Would this make a difference if I got a much stronger airpump to create more bubbles and hopefully more oxygen, makes sense right? I did test my water this evening. PH 7.5 , Ammonia 0.50ppm, Nitrite 0.25ppm and Nitrate 0ppm. I started this tank Sun. So its only been 2days. Thanks again ^_^
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-15-2012, 12:17 AM
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I don't think it makes that big of a difference. I use a pump rated for a 40 gal tank on my 55 gal tank. I don't think it's oxygenation. I'm willing to bet it is that reading of 0.50 ppm ammonia and 0.25 ppm nitrite. With those levels after just two days, you should be doing daily water changes.

---Izzy

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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-15-2012, 01:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Izzy, for all your help. Should I do 50% WC or should I just do 100% WC? I read that on newer water thank, Ammonia are expected to spike up, but should go down after 4-7 weeks to 0ppm, once the tank is cycled and filter begins to have BB (beneficial Bacteria) How true its this? I am planning on getting a much stronger airpump and couple more wall wand. ^___^
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