Ah, okay! I'll definitely keep this in mind as well :D
I have heard of impaction in leo's, turtles and beardies from "bad" substrate, so I will definitely keep sand in mind. All of the tips, anyway, lol.
omigawd. Thanks for the info! The deal you found makes me itch to look at those two but I have seriously zero money right now and can't make things bad for myself ;__; Took a peek at CL previously and was all "WHY DO I HAVE TO BE BROKE?"
The gKK abbreviation is foreign to me, what's that one stand for? And slate mounted? I've got speculation on both, but it's just a bit over my head on them.
Jumping to full size while they're still young makes me think of hognose snakes - too big and they'll feel too exposed. Do you know if I could put a divider in there, "held" in place by logs to cut the space if I go with a full-size to help with costs? It'll create the illusion of a smaller space while still being a "full size" tank.
Thanks for reminding me about the scale to tell if they're getting a bit heavy, I was thinking about one of those then totally forgot about it. Is there a safe way to help them "work" off extra weight other than straight denying food? I honestly don't know how one could safely cause a lizard to lose weight =\
I will definitely keep in mind as well to get a thermometer to stick in there to ensure the temp stays at a proper degree.
As far as morphs go I've found I like bicolor red and darker, and bicolor green Fire and Harlequin morphs as well as cream Fire but I doubt I would find the exact baby I want from a store and a breeder would be pricey - I'd have to go with what I can get really.
I'd be able to handle roaches just fine, only thing I've heard is that crickets tend to smell fairly bad, but would population control be the primary thing? Too many in a smaller container causing a scent issue? I'm sure that roaches wouldn't be welcome hardly anywhere because of a bad rep so I'd prefer keeping them to treats or something since crickets are so easily obtained (I'd imagine). By worms, do you mean like super worms and mealworms? I've heard with super worms that the heads can cause impaction issues so it's good to de-head them before feeding.
i did pretty well to get my gecko start up costs low. $30-50 for the food and calcium dust, $80 the gecko, $80 for 80% terrarium setup. the rest was dollar store purchased ie spray bottle and a few small purchases from a pet store. the branches i got for free ie fallen branches. CL KJ can help out to lower costs given the pet store may sell the full size terraium kit for minimum $200. as for substrate you can chose to use paper towel for their whole life, some ppl like the fine cocoa husk. once the gecko is old enough the impaction issues will largely be gone, unless they constantly ingest it -> switch over to some other substrate. small amounts of cocoa husk wont pose too much issues with impaction though i personally chose to stick with paper towel. feeding insects to geckoes can also cause impaction issues if they also take the substrate along with the insect.
i dont know who did the stump mounting but its just a long rectangular slte rock with 1 hole and a stone screw to hold the stump. it can swivel with such a setup.
Gkk is ie 3.4 gallon Kritter Keeper/faunarium. ie those plactic pet containers sold at stores. a tank divider should work just fine until they're ready for the full area. i never did that personally but it will give then less space to explore and feel safer. if possible you can put some clear plastic on the other side of the divider to limit the space the food smell can go.
a lizard can lose weight thought it'll be more through sickness and/or bad care. some geckoes can get overweight but controlled feeding amounts can help out to limit the weight gain. hand walking/handling the gecko will also help them lose weight think of it as exercise and getting them used to you. for most lizards you probably shouldnt handle them for the first 2-3 week much as they're still acclimating to new surroundings. they will also likely wont eat but a crestie can go 2 weeks without food but it wont starve itself unless its sick.
crickets do get smelly in any quantity but its not over bearing to make the whole house/room smell (unless you have several hundred in an area). they're relatively high maintenance to keep alive until they die or get fed. they can be noisy ie chirping but thats just personal oppinion as to what you can tolerate. cricket containers are possible, plastic is up to you as some might chew through the container and escape. ive never had mine chew through as i dont overstock them ie 2.2quart container to hold 11 crickets max. too many also will canabalise the others in the same container. the ideal tank for crickets is 10-20g tanks as they high ledge wont let them jump over. though i also dont have much space so i went with plastic containers (drilled and craft mest screnntop ie aq silicone).
super worms are partly impaction issues but the crestie doesnt chew the insect, they crush them and you cant guarantee the feeder is dead when it enetrs the stomach. this can leave a living worm in the stomach chewing out for freedom. the shell of the worms is something they cant digest nor pass through well. some feed freshly shed worms but that up to personal choice and people can either support feeding worms or to avoid them for cresties. some other lizard species dont have such impaction issues.
lol sorry if my replies are a bit long. i do prefer harley/flames, dalmation an tigers are next. patternless are cool though i dont mind them. i dont really like the pattern on pin stripes, they dont easthetically please me.