We're very careful to try and avoid tail loss. If he grabs onto our hand with it we wait for him to let go to move to the next hand and gently coax him when he's in the tank.
My sister did order the Rephashy food from there and it should be here in about 2 weeks. He's shown no interest in touching the glass, but the heating lamp in elevated above the lid of the tank along with a few inches in between the tallest section of drift wood. We did switch to an aquarium light though for a little less harshness to the heat and light.
We got him a fruit bite mixture to eat as well, but I'm not sure if he's been eating that yet or not. The papaya was marketed as good for crested geckos, so we picked it up to start him out. He doesn't seem to like it though, but his crickets love it.
I know exactly what you mean. sometimes I want to open the terrarium doors but hes right there in the middle so I have to open the top to mist inside. once I accidentally pinned 2 of his toes when closing 1 door for 3 seconds, he was struggling a bit but I caught the error right away.
I really do love these animals, they're cool and cute at the same time.
he should eventually get used to glass walking when he's used to his home. depending on the light and proximity to the top of the terrarium do be careful its not too close. I got my 18 inch cube exoterra 2nd hand, the previous leopard gecko?? terrarium light was a bit too close to the plastic framed mesh for minor melt areas. a few inches does sound like a good buffer from the terrarium top.
there are mechanical timers for small electric appliances that could be used for the heating lamp if you want to. I have one such for my aquarium light hoods.
you can store mixed cgd for a week in the fridge though mine got picky wihin the last few months and only likes fresh mixed (or 90% fresh mixed). you could always leave CGD out in the tank or lave it out after he's eaten. it depends how often he'll eat but CGD tends to dry out after a day or 2 due to the minimal water content for mixing.
since he's a young gecko do monitor his skin for shedding. some may forgo a meal prior to shedding. they do eat their old skin but sometimes stick sheds can occur and impair future growth if left alone. higher humidity and good humidity will ensure the smaller chances of stuck sheds. saunas and a wet q-tip can take care of the rest. a sauna is basically very low water level for him to soak the given areas to loosen the skin and rolling a wet q-tip on stuck shed areas will remove the old skin. don't force the old skin off, let it go naturally. I haven't really done a sauna but you don't surpass their temperature limits 22-28C. the people on the gecko forum site will tell you how to do it if its necessary.
I haven't had such skin shed issues before luckily. they will also tend to hide before and during their sheds so don't bother them too much if shedding is suspected. do expect growth spurts when they're young. you'll know it by the amount of food they'll eat. sometimes they'll eat more than normal to support the spurt. you could tell shedding events before it happens when their pads get less sticky though stuck debris or food can also minimize pad grip. some geckoes are less sticky and may have natural troubles climbing glass.