One thing I'm surprised no one else mentioned was how extremely important Calcium and Vitamin D3 are! Without proper Calcium and D3 reptiles can develop Metabolic Bone Disease, and I've seen some reptiles severly deformed by MBD. Supply these by gut loading prey items, and then dusting prey with calcium powder right before giving it to the geckos. One of the easier ways to do this is to put the prey item(s) in a plastic baggy or a lidded cup with the right amount of powder and sort of shaking it around. There are commercially available calcium powders with and without Vitamin D3 and with and without phosphorus, as well as general multi vitamin type powders. Do not think that because you use some sort of "Calcisand" or "Vitasand" type product your repltile gets enough calcium, most dont ingest enough on a regular basis to get all the calcium they need and if an animal does happen to ingest large quantities it could cause an impaction. I've seen varying recommendations on how often to supplement, to be honest it depends on your individual animal to a certain degree and a qualified specialty reptile vet can help you there. The recommended supplementation schedule I see most often (which certainly doesn't mean it is the best for your individual animals) is to supplement with the multi vitamin once a week and calcium several times a week or every other feeding. Some people use calcium powders both with and without Vitamin D3 during the week, but you need to be using Calcium with Vitamin D3 at least some of the time during the week.
A variety of food should be fed. Roaches are a good "staple" diet for many reptiles, and they are general regarded as more nutritious- and less stinky- than crickets. Plus there is such a wide variety of roaches available, you can keep your reptile interested. Now these aren't your American or German cockroaches, so please don't let that put you off. Smaller species of roaches or the young smaller ones of larger species would probably be a good size for leopard geckos, depending on the geckos size. I've seen leopard gecko breeders recommend Lobster, Turkistan, Discoid, Dubia roaches and others for their leopard geckos. certain species of roaches might be illegal in some states like Florida, so check out the laws where you are. In addition to roaches, crickets, locusts, silkworms, hornworms, black soldier fly larvae (also sold under the brand names of Phoenix Worms and Calciworms), mealworms, superworms, and the occasional waxworm and buuterworm (also called Tevo worms) will do. Where I live ther is a bit a confusion about the "Superworm". The Superworm species, Zophobas Morio, also just called "Zophobas worms" in the trade, is the larval stage of a darkling beetle. However there exist so called "giant" mealworms that are given hormones while still in the larval "mealworm" stage to keep them in that stage longer so they have time to grow bigger. These hormone mealworms are also being labeled as super worms or superworms, zoomed sells them in the can. I wouldn't recommend these altered "giant mealworms" for feeding to your pet, but apparently they're good for fishing bait!
Like other reptiles, leopard geckos require a thermal gradient with a cooler side on one end of the enclosure and a warmer side on the other. This can be accomplished with an under tank heat pad, the general rule of thumb is to have the pad be about one third of the under tank space. Many heat pads Cannot be safely used with acrylic or plastic enclosures and are only meant to be used on glass, so before you use an undertank heat pad check the instructions/packaging very carefully to be sure it can be used on acrylic before using on an acrylic tank, if you have one. Do not use heat rocks, heat cables, heat tape, or electric blankets, etc. inside the enclosure, they have been known to cause burns. while many have used them without problems, unfortately others havent been so lucky so I wouldnt risk it. There should be a hide on each side, warmer and cooler. Make sure there is enough room for both geckos in the one hide or have one for each of them on each side, that would be two hides each end= 4 total. Put the water dish on the cooler side. Of course make sure you have a good quality thermometer, preferably one on each end, both warmer and cooler, to check temps.
You said the geckos are both males, but who sexed them? If they were not sexed at the right age by a knowledgeable person experienced with sexing leopard geckos who knows what sexually dimorphic signs to look for, get them sexed properly. If it turns out they are both males as you said, you will almost inevitably have to separate them as male are territorial and fight. However a group of all females or a group consisting of one male and multiple females (called a harem) can usually live together fine, provided there is enough space, including hiding space, for all and they are all roughly similar sizes. The reason I mention this is sometimes one is quite a bit larger and may bully smaller ones and out compete for food, or there is one smaller than the others that this happens to. If this happens, you may have to separate them just for feeding time only or put them in entirely separate enclosures.
I think that's all, but I of course recommend trying to learn all you can by reading books, researching online( take care sheets with a grain of salt though) going to reptile society meetings etc. good luck!