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How to: Natural Planted tank

2M views 662 replies 146 participants last post by  Caelth 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Natural Planted tank: Soil based with lots and lots of stem and floating plants. Common snails and shrimp complete the little ecosystem-everything has a job.

Plants functions as the filtration-All livestock and anything organic function as the ferts-When the organics start to break down and decomp-they naturally produce CO2 that the plants need. Shrimp also shred dead/dieing organics/plant matter so that it will break down faster and eat some algae. Snails-eat organics and dead/dieing plant matter and some algae.

Soil based tanks are as close to a complete ecosystem you can create in a closed system/aquarium. Everything works together to create the Balance.

It can take about 3 months for a soil based tank to mature. Once the soil has started its life under water, is alive and full of critters/microorganisms. I like to remove my filter or water movement in my 10gal and under tanks. I do use water movement in my 20gal and larger.

Nitrogen cycle-in properly setup soil based tank with lots of plants you don't need to worry about the nitrogen cycle or do anything special-It happens on its own. The silent cycle.
Often with heavy planted tanks-it will take a long time if ever to see the nitrate reading we normally look for that tells us cycling stage/completeness-But the nitrogen cycle is happening-its silent.

If you properly setup the soil based tank-you can safely add all your livestock on the same day you set it up.

Once mature-water changes are limited and this can vary from once a month to 4-5 times a year. If you want that really clean tank floor with an organized look-the soil based may not be for you.
Over cleaning-water changes and vacuum can upset the balance, however, your water should always look crystal clear-this tells you that you have good balance and the plants, microorganism, shrimp, snails and fish are doing their job.

Dirt-Look for organic type potting soil, top soil or use dirt from your yard. You don't want any added ferts, chemicals...etc.....
Sift the soil or pick through it to remove any large pieces of organics and wood.
In 1-10gal tanks use 1-1.5 inches of dirt
In 20-55gal tanks use-1.5-2 inches of dirt
In over 55gal-use 2-3 inches of dirt

Cap-use either-pool filter sand, play sand or small diameter gravel.
The cap is to help hold the soil in place and you only want to use half as much cap as you do soil.

Hard scape-If using large based items-like big rocks or driftwood-along with more than 1 inch of dirt. Place the hard scape item on top of the first 1 inch of dirt-then add the rest of the dirt and cap.

*Hint: Place the filter and heater in the tank before you place hard scape items. This will help you with proper placement and then place the hood if you are using one to check that everything will fit properly-You want the overflow of the filter to be directed over a hard scape item so it doesn't cause a kick up. Check the intake to insure that it isn't too low to the dirt/cap line-you may need to shorten the intake or place a flat rock under it so it doesn't suck up the soil/cap and ruin the filter.

Lights-proper lighting is really important-without the proper color temp bulb the plants can't see the light to use it for photosynthesis. Without good plant growth the soil based tank will crash.
You want-"Daylight" 6500k bulbs-watts will vary based on length of bulb.
You want to change both the bulb and the starter every 12 months-even if they still work since florescent bulb intensity can be lost over time.
The partition between the light and plants-need to either be removed all together or ensure it is kept clean for best light penetration to plants.
Photoperiod-keep the lights on 10-12 hours. Plants naturally are on 10h/day PP with 1 hour before and after of less intense light.
*Too short a PP or wrong color temp bulb, old bulbs can trick the plants into thinking its a season change and time to go dormant, die or flower.
Poor plant growth can result in poor water quality. You should need to make your first plant trim in 7-10 days after planting.

Algae: Its normal, expected and a sign of a healthy system, however, since this is a closed system-even the good algae needs to be manually removed on occasion. With soil based systems that have proper balance you shouldn't have algae issue-you will have some-but as long as you have enough of the right species of thriving plants-they should out compete problem algae.

Plants: If you can't start a soil based tank with enough of the right species of plants-DON'T set one up...It is important to have enough of the right species of plants on hand, correct lights from the start-otherwise the system might crash.
You want to start with lots of fast growing stem plants and some floating plants. You can add the moss, ferns, anubias to your hard scape items and add some rosette plants too.
Plants I like to use:
Stem plants:
Najas indica (naja grass)
Cabomba caroliniana(green)
C. piauhyensis (red)
Hygrophila dfformis (westeria)
H. corymbosa (giant hygro)
H, siamensis (thin leaf)
Ludwigia natans
Rotala indica
Rosette plants:
Vallisneria americana-var Biwanesis
V. spiralis
Sagittaria subulata
S. platyphylla
Cryptocryne walkeri
Crypt-bronze
C. wendtii
Echinodorus bleheri (amazon sword)
E. ozelot
E. tenellus (chain sword)
Other:
Nymphaes stellata (red lily)
Aponogeton ulvaceus
Microsorium pteropus (java fern)
Vesicularia dubyana (java moss)
Floating plants:
Pistia stratiotes (water lettuce)
Limnobium laevigatum (frogbit)
Lemna minor (duckweed)

Once the hard scape items and fully planted-make water only changes until the water is clear-Turn on the filter and heater-Once at temp-add the livestock after proper acclimation.
If you don't have trumpet snails that burrow to add-be sure and poke the soil a couple of times a week with either chopstick, wooden spoon...etc.....This will help prevent anaerobic soil. Once you make your first trim, plants are thriving-the roots of the stem plants will help prevent anaerobic soil by pulling oxygen into the soil layer.

You will need to make 1-3 times a week 25-50% water only changes for the first 1-2 weeks-Then decrease as you see plants growing/thriving to 1-2 25-50% a week. By the 3 month stage and provided plants are thriving and you have had to make at least 4-5 trims on the stem plants-Reduce water changes to monthly 50% and remove the filter if you want. As the tank matures-plants thriving you can use your judgment on water changes and reduce them further.

I don't use any added ferts or inject CO2-neither are needed in soil based balanced systems-They make everything they need if allowed, however, adding an extra pinch of fish food weekly is a great plant food for NPT's.

Once you have 1 thriving soil based tank-you will soon need another tank due to the plant growth.

Links to more info on NPT's
https://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=84915
https://www.bettafish.com/album.php?albumid=2903

 
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#71 ·
OK... I bought my organic potting soil last night and I'm going to be ordering plants,snails, and shrimp today/tomorrow. Yay! I was trying to find someone who would have all I need... not going to happen, so my question is. As these plants & livestock arrive, how do I keep them until everything arrives and I'm ready to set-up the aquarium(s)? Just float the plants in a bucket or something? What about the shrimp & snails?

OFL... am I understanding this right. You dirt the tank, add plants, do the water changes as you described... when the tank is clear, then you add snails and shrimp. Then wait a while(few days?) then add the Betta? Sorry to be so anal... just want to make sure I'm doing it right.

I have to confess... my OCD took over. Petco got a new shipment of Bettas and I bought 4!!!:oops: I do have 2 - 5.5gal and 2 - 2.5 gal tanks just waiting to get the supplies and get going!

Again, thanks so much!
 
#72 · (Edited by Moderator)
I add all livestock the same day I set a soil based tank up. Snails, shrimp and fish.....As long as you started out with enough of the right species of plants and don't overstock with fish-the plants will take care of any byproducts produced by the fish/livestock-along with some partial water changes.

By overstocking-I mean lots of fish...not snails or shrimp...

To keep the plants until ready-any container of water will work-add a heater and lights-You can also use this container to hold any livestock you have too. Shrimp and/or snails-keep them in smaller containers and float them in the bucket or tank you have the plants in-Make 25-50% water changes every couple of days and keep the light on for at least 10 hours/day.

Look forward to reading and seeing pic on your new Thread-once you get your soil based tank setup...Be sure and point me in that direction so I can follow your thread.

You will really enjoy the soil based tank once it has matured-I know I did-once I got over the idea of putting dirt in an aquarium....lol....

Ask all the questions you need.....We are happy to help anyway we can...
 
#73 ·
Thank you so much! That really helps!

I really like the soil that I got... think it will work out just great. I started sifting it this afternoon, but need a smaller screen... too many twigs, etc were falling through. Will stop at Lowe's and get that this afternoon. Have my orders just about ready to purchase... will definitley keep you posted. Again, thank you!
 
#74 ·
OFL can you please tell me how to trim plants without killing or hurting them,how do you know what part to cut?

i went out last night and bought a bag of miracle grow organic choice potting soil and a bag of play sand. im goin to redo my tank into a planted one in a few weeks time when i can get proper lights and plants

could you also tell me what wouls be the best type of plant for a beginner like myself to use as a grass carpet for the foreground,i love the look of grass in tanks
 
#76 · (Edited by Moderator)
To trim stem plants-pinch or cut them back at any leaf point
Rosette plants-pinch back dead/dieing/unwanted leaves as near to the crown as you can.

Grass like plants-like sags, vals, microsword, chain swords...etc....trim like you cut grass.


To plant Stem plants-remove the lower leaves from the cutting and plant the stem or place a heavy object on it to hold it down until it roots and anchors itself.

What I use for my lawn....Echinodorus tenellus(pygmy chain sword) this seem to work well with the soil based low-mod light tanks.
 
#77 ·
I'm ready to place my plant order, but am not sure how many bunches of each to buy. :) For instance... when ordering a bunch of Cabomba caroliniana is says 6+ stems. I believe I'm to plant one stem at a time, so would one bunch of this plant be enough for 2 - 2.5g tanks? 3 in one and 3 in another? I'll be having other plants also, but just wondering if this would be enough of this plant. Hope I'm making myself clear...

Thanks again!
 
#78 ·
In soil based tank-it is important to start out with enough of the right species of plants.

I like to recommend at least 3+ different species of stem plants-even in the smaller tanks. This is because not all plants will do well and by having several different species-ensures at least one-heavy feeding-fast growing stem plant will help to keep the water safe.

In a 2-2.5gal tank-3-4 stems of 3-4 different stem plants and a rosette-along with the all important floating plant-like water lettuce. Once the soil is mature (about 3 months) and starts its life underwater-you can remove some of the stem plants to allow more room/light for the rosette and other plants.

You know the system is doing well when you need to trim 50% of the stem plants within the first 7-10 days of setup.
 
#79 ·
thanks for the reply old fish lady, i currently have a 14 gallon aqueon tank,i think its like a 10 gallon of the same brand but with 4 gallon added higher on top,not longer in width.

i am going to buy all my plants at the same time.. like many other newbies im not sure how many of each plant i need for my tank..


my plan is to put my beta in a 5 gallon bucket with heater and water. take out all my fake plants and gravel from my tank and give the walls a scrub with a clean toohbrush,then ill add the soil and sand, ill fill the tank 3 or 4 times till water is running clear through my filter,then ill take out all water except up to an inch above my soil.. the next day i will do my planting and then refill all the water, on the third day ill add my beta and heater back into the tank..


i allready have frogsbit in my tank now and its doin well so i dont need any floating plants.. but i need everything else..

is it possible to tell me how many stem plants i need total and how many rosettes,im not sure what rosettes are, and how many low growing foreground plants? i am goin to put 2 small moss balls in also as i think they look cool..



also would it be possible to point me in the direction of a good place to buy plants online maybe,my lfs has snails all in their plant tanks and i heard petco plants can sometimes find it hard adjusting to life in a new tank since they are kept in plastic cylinders in the stores.
 
#80 ·
Once again... thank you so much Oldfishlady!

I was at a LFS and they have MTS! They said to stop by whenever I'm ready and they'll be happy to give me as many as I need! LOL!

I'm getting there bit by bit! So excited, Can hardly wait to get all my supplies!
 
#81 · (Edited by Moderator)
Rosette plants are-swords, sags, vals, cryps, anubias to name the most common used-mainly plants that grow leaves from a crown or single axis and reproduce by runners.

Its hard to give numbers-but roughly 75% of the floor planted with stem plants and 10% floating. Its better to have too many than too few and its always a good idea to have another tank or bucket and extra lights on hand-plus, within a week 10 days you should have a lot of extra plants just from the trims you make

I would check out aquabid for plants or ebay.....Plants usually don't cost that much...its the shipping that can be expensive and on some of the aquabid plants-they have free shipping....

Laffs.....usually most pet shops will give MTS and any of the common snails for Free-since they are considered pest snails....lol....They can overpopulate fairly fast...personally, I like the common snails and they all have jobs in my systems.

I am excited for you guys too.....I look forward to seeing your tanks once setup....Once you go live plants its hard to go back...lol......I have seen behaviors I have only dreamed about in my planted tanks. The soil based are as close to a natural ecosystem that can be created in a glass box/closed system. Its still a closed system and need some help-but overall they are great and a lot easier to care for than you think...Its all about balance and proper color temp lights.....
 
#85 ·
Can 1.5 gallon tank be a NPT? I think ive heard people say no, but you said on your filter list, a 1-10 gallon tnka gets no filter. so can a 1 gallon be NPT ?
 
#86 · (Edited by Moderator)
A "Daylight" 6500k bulb is what I use for my planted tanks for low to mod light plants.

If it holds water-I plant it...lol.....IMO/E-any size container can be planted, however, you might be limited on fish species with some smaller containers.

In other words....Yes, IMO/E a 1.5gal is fine to start a soil based planted tank for a Betta and shrimp and/or snails.

Cute, unique little half gallon and smaller bowls make nice planted containers with either shrimp and/or snails too.....

You are only limited by your imagination and creativity with plants..........
 
#87 ·
Would i have to do alot of water changes with 1.5? and i only have a small female in there ight now, i could get some srimp and a snail. i plant to get another 1.5 gallon for my female, because im selling my 20 gallon soon. if your interested lol. but i had 3 males in it, and somehow all but one died, i think they may have had internal parasited because the one who survives has clear stringy poop. and he wont eat. and he darts alot. BUT anyways, a 1.5 gallon for both my ne girls and a NPT on both sound legit lol. i could have a snail or 2 in each and shrimp but the light issue is, it came with a LED light, do you know of any plants that dont need but an LED ? like maybe a moss ball? because those are the only light I have... unless i set them in the sun room, but they may not like the sun.... I just don't know.
 
#88 · (Edited by Moderator)
Once my unfiltered- 1gal-3gal-heavy planted soil based are mature(about 3 months)-I make 4-5 more or less partial water changes a year-provided that the plants are thriving and doing their job.
On first setup-I make 2-3 partials for the first week or so then back down to 1-2 weekly-then monthly.
This is stocked with a single adult Betta and shrimp-usually half dozen or so and lots of common snails-maybe 20 or so that are thinned out on a regular basis. Water prams are all 0ppm(zero) across the board-the plants take care of the water and DOC's.

Plants for LED's would be anubias, ferns, moss-It would be risky to setup a soil based with just those plants and I wouldn't recommend it. Bare bottom or inert substrate would be safe-along with proper water changes of course....

Don't need another tank...but thanks.....I just seen a 40gal with everything and a stand at the thrift shop for $30.00 and a complete 10gal for $10.00-both including heaters, lights, filter, gravel and one even had a remote-don't know what it was for...lol........wish I had a place for them....lol.....
 
#629 ·
Once my unfiltered- 1gal-3gal-heavy planted soil based are mature(about 3 months)-I make 4-5 more or less partial water changes a year-provided that the plants are thriving and doing their job.
On first setup-I make 2-3 partials for the first week or so then back down to 1-2 weekly-then monthly.
This is stocked with a single adult Betta and shrimp-usually half dozen or so and lots of common snails-maybe 20 or so that are thinned out on a regular basis. Water prams are all 0ppm(zero) across the board-the plants take care of the water and DOC's.

.
Two questions. First, I just want to make SURE because wow does that sound like a lot of critters in my fluval spec 2.8 gallon tank. I am thrilled if that is the case though. So a betta, a half dozen shrimp, and 20 snails is the right number for a 2.8 gallon tank?

Second question: I apparently need an upgrade from the stock light that comes with the tank. I called the biggest and best fish store in the city and they don't have any of the fluval 13w PC lamps. They do however have this: http://www.adana-usa.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=746#prettyPhoto
Would that work well in my tank for sustaining plants?
They recommend it and say it would work well and it's what they use in their high end tanks. Anyone here use this? Thoughts?
 
#90 ·
regarding the small diameter gravel,i am planning on using play sand as a cap,then i will take some nice decorative small stones and make 2 big circles in each side of the tank in back corners,i will plant my tallest species of plants in here,so it looks like a little garden section,i was going to use the gravel i have now to put inside the stoned off circles on top of the sand,its big diameter though,it will only be on maybe 40 percent of the floors surface,the rest will be just sand.

should i not use this big diameter gravel,its not suepr big,i think its just regular petco black gravel, but im afraid if i go for smaller diameter gravel the adf frogs i plan gettin in the future would swallow the small gravel and die
 
#92 ·
OFL - You will need to make 1-3 times a week 25-50% water only changes for the first 1-2 weeks-Then decrease as you see plants growing/thriving to 1-2 25-50% a week. By the 3 month stage and provided plants are thriving and you have had to make at least 4-5 trims on the stem plants-Reduce water changes to monthly 50% and remove the filter if you want. As the tank matures-plants thriving you can use your judgment on water changes and reduce them further.
When you do a water change are you just using tap water? What about the cold temp and chlorine? If I warm the water up a bit then my water softener comes into play. Is that OK?
 
#94 ·
OK... thanks OFL! Right now I'm just looking at small (2.5 - 5.5) tanks but, what if I love this and want to do a larger NPT someday? Perhaps a large plastic garbage pail, fill it with water, let it sit to dechlorinate, and heat it? Is that feasible? I've never used the dechlorinating tablets/drops... just let the water sit on my kitchen countertop for a few days. Is there a brand you'd recommend? Thanks again for all your help!
 
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