Algae/detritous - Betta Fish and Betta Fish Care
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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Algae/detritous

Howdy all. The pics attached are from my 10g planted tank. I had a serious algae bloom 2 weeks ago and it just never got under control I got a whisper 10g filter with just filter sponge in there and three asian algae eaters and a painted snail in there with the betta. The eaters, some floating plants, and the filter helped clean out some gunk after I took out some loose stuff and reduced the algae, but it just won't settle down. I'm not too worried though because all levels have been perfect since the start. Any advice is appreciated **no the filter doesn't disrupt the surface. The floating plants are threaded near the spout for that reason ** And Turk doesn't even bother with the other residents.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Water is low because I took the pic right while doing a mini water change.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 01:48 PM
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Are all the plants live plants and if so, how often are you needing to trim and what species of plants, what type of substrate, how long has it been running-tank size. Any ferts used or injected CO2 and other additives-If ferts used, how much, how often in relation to water changes and how much how often are the water changes.
What kind of algae, what kind of lights, age of bulbs, kelvin, watts and photoperiod

Last edited by Oldfishlady; 03-16-2013 at 01:50 PM.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Oldfishlady View Post
Are all the plants live plants and if so, how often are you needing to trim and what species of plants, what type of substrate, how long has it been running-tank size. Any ferts used or injected CO2 and other additives-If ferts used, how much, how often in relation to water changes and how much how often are the water changes.
What kind of algae, what kind of lights, age of bulbs, kelvin, watts and photoperiod
Plants- Cryptocoryne Balansae, Nana valisneria, Sunset, Pygmy chain sword, Bacopa monnieri, Rotala rotundifolia,Cryptocoryne parva Cryptocoryne petchii, Cryptocoryne wendtii 'Brown'

Lights- 2 of http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...AvailInUS%2FNo Time- 8hrs a day ( I need to put a timer on it)

Tank- Like stated in original post 10 gallon- a bout a 3.5 weeks.
Substrate- Organic soil base- then pool filter sand and small/medium gravel mix. No strong ferts, just a little CO2 booster and plant food 2 weeks ago.

Water- I've done 3 or 4 25% water changes.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Oh and some floater name unknown.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Some of the plants got destroyed during the last water change so I may have to re-stock it a bit. I just don't know which non-substrate plants to choose this time.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 02:52 PM
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Soil based natural planted tank setup 3.5 weeks ago and having algae problems. One problem I see since this is a soil based system-is that you don't have enough stem plants to help with nutrient overload from the soil. Do you know what kind of algae-I assume these are new bulbs and while they are within the color temp range at 5100k-I have found 6500k to work better.
With planted tanks and problem algae-usually it will be light and nutrient related-especially on a new setup. Its all about balance-the plants have to out compete the algae. While some species of algae is normal, expected and a sign of a healthy system-when it starts to be problematic this early on setup-You system is out of balance. Could be due to lights and ferts without enough of the right species of plants and good plant growth to out compete the algae.

Is this an open top or do you have a partition between the lights and water-how far are the lights from the water. Especially with hair algae-if the partition is dirty or light too close to the water can be a cause of hair algae.

What I would recommend-add more stem plants-naja grass would be a good one to use. Stop all ferts-you don't need it with the nutrient rich substrate and this could be feeding the algae. Make 50% water only change for 2 days-If you can-find a couple of 6500k bulbs and increase your photoperiod to 10h/day. Then do 50% water Only twice a week for the next 2 weeks. Try not to disturb the substrate at all and allow some of mulm/debris to break down so the decomp can add some natural CO2.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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No partition but was thinking of raising the light because it is a bit close to the water. It was normal algae growth then it just exploded into that gross hair algae. I in the pictures I have some grass, but yeah I will get more. I just did a 50 percent change and did some extra clipping. I'll order some stem plants later this week.

Thanks!
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 05:21 PM
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Your 'asian' algae eaters worry me. Are they otos, Chinese Algae Eaters, or Siamese Algae Eaters? If they are either of the last two, they can't stay in your 10 gallon long-term as they will get far too big. CAEs also get aggressive as they age.

Life.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-20-2013, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Your 'asian' algae eaters worry me. Are they otos, Chinese Algae Eaters, or Siamese Algae Eaters? If they are either of the last two, they can't stay in your 10 gallon long-term as they will get far too big. CAEs also get aggressive as they age.
Yeah no worries. I'm well aware the size fish get. I tend not to close my eyes and just pick fish A friend with several large tanks (I believe 2 75s and a some custom tanks) would take them eventually.
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