Usually, yes. The base idea behind mineralized soil is that it mimics the processes found in nature, thus eliminating the need for water column dosing. A properly mineralized soil tank setup will have it's own carbon, iron, and sulfur cycle. Anaerobic bacteria are necessary for a healthy tank, and they are natural, but not in the numbers or concentration that causes the bubbles to form.
If the post above is too hard to follow, you can basically just use pure humus, which is available by the bag for pretty cheap. To set up a true NPT that actually mimics natural biological processes you need to use other elements than only dirt, since just the dirt alone won't be able to provide the cycles needed and usually hosts too much bacteria and compacts too easily. If dirt must be used it should really be a low nutrient, or a high nutrient (of the proper proportions) mixed with clays or inert substrates.
Alternatively you can place dirt in a bucket or several buckets of water (for larger amounts of dirt) and frequently stir up the dirt. Twice a week dump out the buckets (but retain the dirt) and refill it. Continue for a minimum of 5 weeks. It will speed up a little if there is some water current so adding an airstone to the bucket will help a lot. You'll get compaction and anaerobic bacteria even after doing this, but the number will be reduced. Adding sand to the bucket will help host bacteria that break down the soil further to lessen the buildup of anaerobic bacteria. After you add the soil to the tank, add MTS right away so they can begin burrowing. You'll want at least one or two per gallon of tank in order to keep the substrate aerated enough.
This is a simplified method and it does work in most cases, the things you really cannot skip on is adding the snails right away in decent numbers. Adding too few snails will allow some parts of the soil to compact quickly leading to the pockets of bacteria.