+1 to JKFish (if he isn't above me anymore
Since you seem bent on catching this rabbit, I will give you more warnings to try and convience you that this is a bad idea.
1) Bunnies kick hard enough to break their own backs. If you do not know the proper way to hold a rabbit when you try to "catch" the wild rabbit, then the rabbit can kill itself trying to get out of your arms.
2) If you do manage to pick up the rabbit properly, it will bite you and it will hurt. It is best to only handle a rabbit when it feels like interacting with you and the wild rabbit will not be in the mood to be caught.
3) To my knowledge, a bunny doesn't get weened until the 4th month. I don't know if wild rabbits ween sooner because nature isn't as kind as a livingroom. But, you may be waiting longer than a month.
4) Bunnies can litterally die of frieght. If you manage to pick up a wild rabbit without allowing the rabbit to break it's own back or bite you, if can die of a heart attack as you carry it home.
5) E. Cunnilius is an infection that the mother can pass on to her kits at birth. Even if the baby rabbit you try to catch looks healthy, he/she could be a carrier of this disease that can either show no symptoms or symptoms as sevier as permenant head tilt. The mother can be fine while the bunnies are doomed. It is very expensive to treat and you would need to find a vet with rabbit experience to have any chance of a proper diagnosis.
6) Bunnies have very sensitive digestive systems. If a stressed bunny isn't eating, then that stressed bunny may have a stalled digestive system. Once the digestive system stalls, death follows in a few days. A bunny that is too scared to eat may die.
7) Un-spayed and un-nuetered bunnies spray. I mean they jump in the air and twirl while peeing to mark territory. Spraying can start as early as 8 weeks and once the bunny forms the habit, it is very hard to break.
Also, bunnies are known to pee on their owners to mark them. I think this happens whether they are fixed or not. I'm still reading up on it.
8) The vet you bring the wild rabbit to may refuse to fix the rabbit because it is very difficult to operate on rabbits. The anesthetics are different. You can't fast bunnies because of the way their digestive system functions. You can't put one of those cone things on them because they have to be able to reach and eat their cepals (spelling?). A vet without experience won't even atempt an operation even if it is a simple spay/nueter.
I was not kinding earlier when I said basic rabbit care is too indepth to smash into a single forum post. Even this post got a bit long and I'm only telling you the scary stuff.
The websites I listed in my earlier response are a good start if you are serious about adopting a bunny. I've been planning for bunnies for about a year now because the more I researched, the more I realized jumping form fish care to bunny care would be a huge leap. It is best to leave the wild rabbit in the wild, do more research on rabbit care, and then adopt a domestic rabbit when you are properly prepared to care for a mammal that will easily live for 15+ years.