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Old 06-16-2012, 01:26 PM   #11 
Mo
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Honestly. I would stop the spawn and recondition. The spawning tank should be lowered in water level. IME, some bettas will only spawn at lower levels of water, there should be more cover as IME. The male will constantly pester the female and rot now it looks like she has nowhere to retreat to. And gravel is bad for spawning IME as the male has to pick the eggs from the bottom of the tank, sometimes the eggs will get stuck in the gravel, be hard to find, etc, so no substrate is usually better, and fry sometimes will wedge themselves in gravel
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Old 06-16-2012, 01:53 PM   #12 
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I agree with Mo, you aren't quite prepared enough. You should always start with high quality breeding stock, NOT pet store bettas. Do you have plans for homes for the adult offspring? As a breeder myself, if you were to spawn higher quality fish, I'd certainly pay a large amount for several of the offspring. But pet store bettas…. no way. :-/ It takes as much energy to breed low quality as it does high quality, so you might as well invest in a decent pair. I'd be more than happy to help you acquire a great pair at a great price, I have some good "hookups." Rofl.

Like Mo said, the tank must be bare-bottomed. (Excuse the pun, LOL.) Otherwise, eggs will get wedged in the rocks, rot, and put the tank at risk of a velvet or ich outbreak, which is a death sentence for fry. The water level should be 4-5 inches, it induces spawning and when the male is picking up fry that have fallen, he doesn't have to swim so far which wears him out.

What have you used to condition the pair?
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Old 06-16-2012, 01:53 PM   #13 
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If they are already meeting under the nest on occasion and you are prepared for this spawn....I would leave the tank as it is.....

If you are not ready to take on the task of rearing the fry....It may be better to start over.....

While bare bottom tanks can make it easier-especially if this is your first spawning experience.....The gravel shouldn't cause that much of an issue if it is really small diameter-you can also place a flat stone or leaf under the nesting area to help, however, if the gravel is too large it can become more of an issue with the fry getting trapped....mass deaths can cause water quality issues.

Water level is more for long fin males than it is for eggs/fry.....But if the male was properly conditioned, healthy...etc.....higher water level is fine IME and the higher water level can also help prevent accidental bump of the nest that can cause the eggs/fry to fall.

With that said......IMO-when its your first time to spawn....its better to start with the standard hobbyist method to increase chances of success.

IMO-pet shop Betta are fine to spawn-especially if you are in the learning stages-however, by spawning the pet shop Betta it can take longer to reach your goals....

Another issue you can have....is what are you going to do with the offspring if you are successful......

Also, what cultures do you have going for the fry food and housing/grow out plans......

Lots of different ways to successfully spawn and rear this species.....
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Old 06-16-2012, 02:17 PM   #14 
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They've embraced several times in the past few minutes so I've decided to let it go on.
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Old 06-16-2012, 02:17 PM   #15 
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Do yu have EVERYTHING on this list
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Old 06-16-2012, 02:18 PM   #16 
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The Spawning Tank



The Spawning Tank is a very important part of breeding. This picture includes the vital parts of a spawning tank.


Many Plants.
floating or non substrate rooted live plants should suffice. Since there shouldn't be any gravel or substrate in the breeding tank, no rooted plants should be used, Silk plants would also do good. I recommend live plants though. Your tank needs to be heavily planted, so the female feels secure and can escape for a few seconds away from the male.

Caves, Or Decorations
.
this provides even more cover and an area for both the female and the male to retreat to. both the male and female get injured during this process. The female will highly appreciate a cave, or other decoration to retreat to, this reduces stress in my opinion and experience

1 - 20 Gallon Spawning Tank.
The Spawning tank can be any size ranging from 1 - 20 gallons, the tank size can also vary depending on the way you breed. Usually the "Thai" way is used with smaller tanks, while the "Hobbyist Method" usually consists of larger tanks half filled or only filled to a certain amount. usually males don't spawn in higher tanks. hence why the water level is lower

A Sponge Filter (Optional).
A Filter is optional. I usually choose to use a filter though when spawning as it reduces the need for water changes. I would preferably use a Sponge Filter. I try to cause Minimal stress, and changing the water to the fish's needs will cause a bit of stress. with constantly introducing and removing water. The filter helps greatly with this issue. Remember. only a cycled filter will help with this issue

No Substrate
.
Substrate can be used in a spawning tank but it makes it very hard for the Male Betta to pick up the eggs and place them into the Bubble Nest. Even though the substrate might be "pretty" it makes spawning completely harder. Please don't use any sort of substrate. gravel or sand, it isn't needed and it just makes it harder for them to spawn

A Chimney.
What's called a chimney is primarily needed to spawn. It lets the male and female see each other with out hurting or injuring each other. it also helps to identify if the female is ready for breeding, she'll show vertical breeding stripes. I personally use a 1 - 2 liter soda bottle cut at the bottom and, a place the female in it. My example is shown in the picture at the top.

An Anchor For The Nest
.
This might be optional to other but to me its an absolute need. My Male Splendens will not make a bubblenest unless there is an anchor such as a half cut cup, a large leaf, or any other close alternative. I personally Use a half cut Styrofoam cup, the anchor also serves another purpose. to minimize the amount of flow where he builds his bubble nest.

Source Of Heat -
all bettas need a source of heat with spawning requiring a bit higher than normal. for spawning to occur the temperature should be maintained around 80-85. Use heaters or heat the room to maintain temperatures. Make sure they dont constantly fluctuate

Male And Female Betta

A Quality Pair.
This is The most important part about breeding Bettas. You always want a quality pair that is worth breeding. breeding deformed Bettas could result in even more deformities while breeding Veil Tails would result in difficulties to find homes for and a minimal profit.

Live Or Frozen Foods.
Live or frozen foods are needed for conditioning the pair. Brine Shrimp, Black Worms, Blood worms, Mosquito Larvae, and others can be used

Growout Tank, and Fry Needs


A Minimum Of 10-20 Gallon Tank
A minimum of a 10 - 20 gallon would be needed to maintain a growout tank depending on the size of the spawn. for smaller spawns a 10 gallon can be used

Source Of Heat
all bettas need a source of heat with fry requiring a bit higher than normal. For best and optimal growth within the fry, temperatures around 85-88 should be maintained. Use heaters or heat the room to maintain temperatures. Make sure they dont constantly fluctuate.

Sponge Filter.
While This is arguable, in My Personal Opinion a cycled filter with minimal flow is needed to help clean the water along with adding dissolved oxygen into the water for the fry. Fry grow faster and are healthier with cleaner water. Always make sure the tank is cycled first.

Plants And Cover (Optional).
This is optional, plants and cover arent needed in any way. some breeders believe the growth is faster and the fry are healthier with many live plants in the tank. select the proper plants if you choose to add them, some plants cant withstand such high temperatures

Live Foods
Live foods are needed for fry, Some good foods are Baby Brine Shrimp, Microwoms, Banana Worms, Walter Worms, and infusoria. these are all nutritional and promote great growth within the betta. once they get older frozen foods can be fed

100+ Jars
Many, Many jars or small tanks are needed for breeding as aggressive males need to be seperated from the growout tank because they will most likely become a problem. the time spawn in which they gain aggression can differ so there really isnt any specific time when they get aggression if you were gonna wait for a couple of months until you get jars. Quart Jars are perfect for separating them.
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Old 06-16-2012, 02:43 PM   #17 
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by HermitGuy101 View Post
They've embraced several times in the past few minutes so I've decided to let it go on.
Good luck keeping them alive.

Jeff.
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Old 06-16-2012, 03:47 PM   #18 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffegg2 View Post
Good luck keeping them alive.

Jeff.
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Old 06-16-2012, 06:30 PM   #19 
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Just check the list Mo posted. These are the basic essentials when breeding and raising bettas. If you can't check off the things on this list, you are not ready to spawn and raise the fry. If you allowed them to spawn anyways, without having the items and knowledge you need, I second what Jeff said, good luck keeping them alive. Not trying to be rude or disrespectful, but it is unfortunately the truth.
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Old 06-16-2012, 06:58 PM   #20 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KadenJames View Post
Just check the list Mo posted. These are the basic essentials when breeding and raising bettas. If you can't check off the things on this list, you are not ready to spawn and raise the fry. If you allowed them to spawn anyways, without having the items and knowledge you need, I second what Jeff said, good luck keeping them alive. Not trying to be rude or disrespectful, but it is unfortunately the truth.
Got a better tank set up, they'll be fine.
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