Recurring Swim Bladder Problem lately

[Katniss]

I feed my betta fish 2 pellets in the morning and 1 at night. Once a week, he gets 3 small frozen blood worms and no pellets.

I have noticed that in the past 2 weeks, he has had swim bladder several times. He never used to have this problem. He eats a small peice of pea and later he is fine.

Would soaking his pellets help with this problem? Should I reduce to 1 pellet in the morning or fasting?

Tank Parameters: 5 gallon, filtered and heated at 78 degrees, planted, 1 snail.

[Oldfishlady]

If its not genetic related, or how he was raised at the fish farm or deformity or high grain/grain byproduct in the food or even old food/poor quality food....it could be related to...too cool dry air over the water...

Try covering all the holes with plastic veggie wrap to help retain heat/humidity for the labyrinth organ....

You don't want to soak the food-this will leach the nutrients and water soluble vitamins....
While the food will swell up in water-they don't swell up like that in the gut since he has gastric acid and enzymes that break the food down.

In the 5gal, filtered and planted-are the plants thriving, how many and what species of plants, how much and how often are the water changes, type of additives used, how long have you had him, any past health problems, what tail type, what are all the signs/symptoms besides the buoyancy issue.

[Katniss]

What brand of pellets would you recommend? I have been using "Aqueon Betta Food."

The plants are very lush and green. I have an Amazon sword plant and a ribbon plant.

I live in Buffalo, NY and it is very hot and humid right now. The lid on the tank has condensation on it which suggests that the air is not cool and dry over his tank. Should I still try your suggestion about the plastic wrap?

I have had him for 2 months and am doing partial water changes (30% 2x weekly with gravel cleaning.) Twice I have added plant food. He also has always had a small white patch on the side of his body. It hasn't changed in size and isn't cottony. Two weeks ago, I gave him an antibotic for the problem. The patch remained. Come to think of it, he had never had swim bladder problems before the medication. What can I do to help correct this problem?

His behavior is typically inquisitive and active normally. On the occasions when he has had when he gets swim bladder, he struggles and hides. How can I help him get back on track?

Thank you for your time and advice.

[Katniss]

Here is a link that shows his white patch.

http://www.bettafish.com/member.php?u=38487

[Oldfishlady]

I don't feed Betta specific food...but I am sure other members can give you ideas.....I feed mainly homemade and live food.....

Its hard to say what the patch is, however, if it hasn't changed in months...it may not be anything to worry about....

Since your tank shows condensation-it should be fine....

Ribbon plant-may not be a true aquatic....I would research it and remove if needed so that it doesn't cause water quality issues....

Sometimes swim bladder issues will show up later in life as the Betta matures-often this is either a genetic issue, deformity or how the Betta was raised at the fish farm-you can get what is sometimes called a "faller" early in growth and development stages-some will recover-then sold-when they really should be culled-as the Betta matures the symptoms return-some can live a normal life albeit with buoyancy problems that come and go, however, some can suffer due to the struggle to swim.
Often the use of long term low dose Epsom salt 1tsp/gal can help to a degree-but its not a cure....

[Kenny G]

Do not feed the betta for three days to give its digestive system a chance to rest and naturally clean itself out. If constipation is to blame for the swim bladder disease, this will treat the disease as well.

On the fourth day, thaw a frozen pea until it reaches room temperature. The pea works as a laxative. Do not use a fresh pea because it may have harmful pesticides and bacteria. Do not use a canned pea because it contains too much sodium.




I hope this helps.

[Katniss]

So I turned the light off and fasted him friday night and Saturday. Sunday he appeared normal and so I gave him 1 pellet. He seemed fine for an hour and a half later. Left the house for several hours. When I came back, he had swim bladder problems again. I researched this online and one site suggested that bright tank lights can cause stress which triggers the problem. I turned the lights out, gave him a partial water change. The swim bladder problem cleared within a half hour. I thawed one bloodworm, fed it to him and monitored him. No swim bladder problems. Do you think the bright tank light could be a trigger?

[Katniss]

Light off today and not much improvement. Is this fish likely to die from the ongoing stress of this problem?