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Old 06-26-2012, 05:27 PM   #11 
timbojimbo
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Originally Posted by Shadyr View Post
Does this fit the bill?

Columnaris
•Symptoms: White spots on mouth, edges of scales and fins, Cottony Growth that eats away at the mouth, Fins rapidly disingrate, starting at the edges
Gray areas around head and gills, As the disease progresses the gray lesions may change in color to yellow/brown/red, Lesions often occur in front of the dorsal causing a “saddleback” appearance, Lethargic, Loss of appetite, Clamped, Gasping for air
•Treatment: There are 2 versions of Columnaris: chronic and acute. Chronic Columnaris can take days to progress while acute can kill within a day. It is contagious so isolate sick fish. If more than one fish shows symptoms then treat the entire tank. Perform daily 100% water change in small tanks or ¾ water change in larger tanks. Make sure to clean the gravel. Treat with Aq.Salt: add 1 tsp/gal Aquarium Salt 3 times, 12 hours apart so that you end up with 3 times the normal concentration. Do NOT raise the temperature as it thrives in temps over 85*F, however, lowering the temperature does not seem to help fight it. Combine salt treatment with Mardel’s Coppersafe, Maracyn I & II, API Erythromycin, OR API Triple Sulfa, combined with Jungle’s Fungus Eliminator (if possible).

Christ! How did he get that! I don't have another tank to isolate him. ARGGGHHHH
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:33 PM   #12 
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Well, if it's all fairly new, there's no telling who it rode in on. But you said you had a tetra die, and your girl just passed, so I wouldn't even worry about isolation - treat the whole tank.

If everyone left is acting normal, you could go with the conservative treatment to start, but if not, you might want to go straight to the big guns.

Good luck, these things can be treated, at least!
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:53 PM   #13 
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To be honest.. this whole things a farce and i'm so unhappy. I've had many fish and all i have had are problem after problem after problem. angel fish being attacked by my zebra danios.. took him back.. guppies attacked by danios.. 1 died.. took them back. got other fish.. then decided to take the danios back and start afresh emphasize my new tank. now all this... and its cost me a hell of a lot of money, money i just dont have and now its going to cost more. it is just never ending, and i feel like giving up with the whole thing together.

ok so it says to change the water... so i do that.. then my PH is way too high because of hardness of tap water... so i have to pay more to get that down.. its just one big headache and im fuming to be honest.

completely and utterly regret getting the fish tank now!
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:19 PM   #14 
Perseusmom
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Sorry your having such a hard time. My PH is high too but I have soft water and I have read many times it best to just leave the ph alone and the fish will adjust to it.You dont need a tank to put him just a clear bowl of some sort if you want to treat him by himself away from the other fish. Good luck I wish there was more I could tell to help but new to Betta keeping myself.
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:56 PM   #15 
timbojimbo
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Sorry your having such a hard time. My PH is high too but I have soft water and I have read many times it best to just leave the ph alone and the fish will adjust to it.You dont need a tank to put him just a clear bowl of some sort if you want to treat him by himself away from the other fish. Good luck I wish there was more I could tell to help but new to Betta keeping myself.

Sorry my ph is ok but the hardness of the water is completely out of control (out of my tap).. i guess in all honesty the only thing i can do is what you said.. just keep the water at a higher hardiness and hope for the best because i cant keep paying money out i dont have (this has cost me literally hundreds of pounds, and keep paying money out to keep it down). the shops dont open and i wont have access to them for another 18 hours because of work so i just decided to do the humane thing.. as when i just checked on him he was a lot worse looking (white on gills and lathargic and gasping for air)... this has only come on today and i just wanted to try to keep the other fish alive to get him out of there. i didnt have a temperature control or a second tank to keep him in so thats all i could do. bye bye fish again. (FFS!) (edit: he had gotten a lot worse since first post about this, and i didn't take this decision lightly)


plan of action: try to kill the infection now using the treatment provided on this forum and wikipedia to try save the other fish. i'm not going to add any more fish to the tank for 2 months until im completely happy its cleared out of the tank. sorry i have had a very bad day.. i come back to my sanctuary of my fish and problems keep happening.

thankyou for advice.

Last edited by timbojimbo; 06-26-2012 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 06-27-2012, 11:59 AM   #16 
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High hardness DOES NOT matter. Fish can adjust to it, but they need to be acclimated properly when you add them to the tank.

For proper acclimation:
-Float fish in bag for ~15 minutes to get the temperature the same.
-Remove 1/4 of water from bag (carefully - use a small cup), and add water from the tank to the bag. WAIT 5-10 minutes, and repeat.
Repeat that second step 3-4 times. This allows the fish to not only acclimate to temperature, but also to a new pH and hardness (both general hardness, and most importantly, carbonate hardness).

My general hardness (GH) is 320ppm, which is extremely high. This causes no problems for regular tropical fish, so long as the fish are used to it. The most important thing is a CONSISTENT water supply (meaning, always use conditioned tap water from the same source), so that parameters don't fluctuate. Fluctuating carbonate hardness (KH) will kill fish a LOT FASTER than fluctuating pH. It's important for KH to be above 3-4 (as it will be out of the tap due to regulation, whereas it is ZERO in distilled water).

That having been said, pH, just like GH, DOES NOT MATTER as long as the fish are used to it. Do not waste money on pH changing chemicals. There is absolutely no reason to. I don't care if your pH is 8.5. Do not do it. KH is a buffer that prevents pH change, and adding chemicals will only cause your pH to fluctuate after KH adjusts it. These fluctuations are far worse than a generally high pH, which has no negative effects as long as fish are used to it.

Unless you have plants or extremely sensitive fish (such as cichlids) there is no reason for you to even worry about hardness or pH.

As far as water changes, change 25% of the water every week, no matter how perfect the parameters seem, since you do not have a planted tank.
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Old 06-27-2012, 12:06 PM   #17 
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Regarding your possibly sick fish: Get a plastic tupperware container out of your cupboard. Rinse it with warm water and rub it vigorously inside and out to remove any possible soap residue. Dry the container with a paper towel (or let it air dry). Get some duct tape.

Fill a 1 gallon plastic jug with tap water (preferably a water jug, but you can use an extremely well-rinsed milk jug). Condition the tap water, measuring for one gallon. Add 2 tsp of aquarium salt and shake the jug until the salt is completely dissolved. Fill the tupperware container you just cleaned halfway with the water you just made. Duct tape the container to the side of the tank so that it's floating in the tank (without getting duct tape in any water). LET THE TEMPERATURE get to the same temperature as the tank (~30 minutes). Put the betta in the container. Change the water every day. I like to manage this by having two containers duct taped inside the tank, one with clean water in it, and one with the betta in it. That way, you can just switch him to the new container, and clean out the old one and put new water in it and tape it back in.

Keep us updated about the status of the betta. If other fish fall ill, you'll have to treat the whole tank.

Addendum: I haven't spent any money on my fish tank in months. If you maintain a consistent environment and keep up with water changes, you will not have issues and your fish won't get sick. I've never had one of my bettas get sick (although I've had scares because I'm paranoid). Use a budget-friendly water conditioner (Seachem Prime). You only need 2 drops per gallon so it lasts forever.

Last edited by kfish; 06-27-2012 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 06-27-2012, 06:24 PM   #18 
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What an absolutely superb couple of posts, I thank you so much for your kindness in showing me (and people reading this that don't know) the way to deal with the [problems] I was having.

Unfortunately, the betta has how passed away. I still have cherry barbs and neons in there, which are showing no signs of the contagion at this stage. I read somewhere (wiki i think), that it can take 28 days for the water to clear itself of the problem. With the advice given, I am going to do a 10% water change everyday and basically go from there. This way, it should hopefully sort out the hardness and ph slowly higher, and get the infection out of the water (i hope).

I am resigned to the fact that I am not going to put any new fish into the aquarium for at least 4 weeks until the signs suggest that it is 100% cleared. Once I am confident this is the case, I will try again with betta's.

Again, I thank you for your advice on this matter. Tim Butler, England.
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Old 06-27-2012, 07:16 PM   #19 
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You're so welcome! It's nice to explain things to perceptive people. :) The most important thing is that you are willing to take advice and try. Fish can be strong and hardy in a stable environment. Disease/parasites are always present, waiting for the chance to strike against a weakened fish.

10% changes everyday for a week or so is a very good plan. There's a chance the other fish may not get sick at all.
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Old 06-28-2012, 03:54 AM   #20 
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columnaris is pretty nasty and can kill quickly. I hope the other fish stay healthy for ya. I had a nasty outbreak in my female betta tank and lost quite a few.

And it is annoying that there is A LOT of conflicting info about bettas out there.
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