Betta Fish Care  
Go Back   Betta Fish and Betta Fish Care > Betta Fish Diseases and Emergencies
Check out the eBook Betta Fish Care Made Easy
betta fish
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-08-2012, 01:07 PM   #1 
tisburylane
New Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Unhappy Fin rot, tail biting, or a combination?

I've had my betta fish, Finnick, for a few months now. I can't remember if it's when I first got him, or soon after, but the edges of his tail were clear and black-tipped. Maybe a week or two ago I came home to see that Finnick's tail was frayed, like the frayed edge of a jean, and immediately freaked out.

Since then I have been changing the water about every two days. I have been giving him TC Tetracycline as well, and in the last few days I have been adding Stress Coat+ to his water. Finnick was on a few drops Melafix, but with so much controversy I quit using it. I have done water testing checks with no serious problems. I took out the only plant that would possibly harm him and replaced with two smaller new ones, although I really don't think Finnick enjoys them nearly as much because at least with the old one there were nooks and crannies to swim through.

He doesn't seem unhappy in the least. After discovering the first fray and knowing I could do little to help until I could get something the next day, I woke up to find a beautiful bubble nest. He still acts like a pig and loves for you to be nearby him.

His fins are still fraying slightly and are still slightly black tipped. I can't tell what it is anymore, and I don't want to flood him with medications if he doesn't need them. Is it fin rot, tail biting, or is he tail biting because the fin rot bothers him? Is he bored? I put a bottle cap in his water last night and he just stared at it and then swam away.

I can try to get a photo if needed, but he won't stay still for cameras.
tisburylane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2012, 01:38 PM   #2 
Oldfishlady
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA
Welcome to the forum....

We need more info and a pic....

What size is the tank, temp, filter, live plants, additives used, how much and how often are the water changes, any tank mates, appetite, amount/type of food, how long have you had him/age of Betta and health history if known.

Current treatment-how long have you been using the antibiotic, melifix for a few days but have since stopped and increase in water changes.
Overall he is still acting okay...its just frayed fins...correct....

What kind of test kit and can you post the most recent numbers on the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH and GH/KH if you have that...
Oldfishlady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2012, 01:49 PM   #3 
tisburylane
New Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Quote:
What size is the tank, temp, filter, live plants, additives used, how much and how often are the water changes, any tank mates, appetite, amount/type of food, how long have you had him/age of Betta and healthy history if known.

Current treatment-how long have you been using the antibiotic, melifix for a few days but have since stopped and increase in water changes.
Overall he is still acting okay...its just frayed fins...correct....
Size: 1 gal (Sorry, in college.)
Temp: Probably around 78-79.
Filter: Yes. The fray is not from the filter because I have covered it with a sponge because of its strength. The sponge in the filter is rather sad at the moment because the usual filter sponge contains activated carbon, which would undo anything the TC is doing (if it is doing anything.)
Live plants: No.
Additives: Mentioned above, and Stress Coat will replace my usual water conditioner for now.
Tank mates: No.
Appetite: Excellent. Little pig. Pellets, 2 of them 2 times a day.
I've had him since late May early June.
No idea for age or health history.

I've been using TC for about 2 and 1/2 weeks? Stresscoat started Monday.
Water change is every day or two, usually around 50%. Because the tank is so small, the TC with dye the water, so if it looks too bad the change will be more.

Yes, he is not acting different at all. If anything, the bubble nests are more frequent and are being built better than ever. It's just the slight color and slight clearness on the edges that worry me.

I'll try and get a pic.
tisburylane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2012, 01:56 PM   #4 
tisburylane
New Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
I know this pic isn't the best, but you can see the fraying on the edge. They aren't too long. He does have that one split, but I believe that's from the old plant.

I'm sorry, I'm in a bit of a rush and don't have time to fight with my camera and its cords.
Attached Images
 
tisburylane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2012, 02:05 PM   #5 
Oldfishlady
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA
IMO/E-the 1gal is fine to keep a long fin male long term provided that the water quality is maintained, however, in 1gal-often the filter/water movement can be the cause of fin damage on the long fin males-even when they are baffled.

What I would recommend-stop all medications, remove the filter and make twice weekly water changes. If he is not tail/fin biting and doesn't have a secondary infection-the fin should start to look better in a week or so by evidence of clear/white fin tips/regrowth-Remembering that often once the fins are damaged they may never return to their full glory.

On 1gal unfiltered without live plants-1-50% and 1-100% weekly to maintain water quality.

Nutrition is really important for fin health/regrowth and overall general health-Feed good quality varied diet in small frequent meals. If you have access to live mosquito larva offer several rinsed for one meal a day to boost protein intake to support healing and immune response...
Oldfishlady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2012, 02:12 PM   #6 
tisburylane
New Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldfishlady View Post
What I would recommend-stop all medications, remove the filter and make twice weekly water changes. If he is not tail/fin biting and doesn't have a secondary infection-the fin should start to look better in a week or so by evidence of clear/white fin tips/regrowth-Remembering that often once the fins are damaged they may never return to their full glory.

Nutrition is really important for fin health/regrowth and overall general health-Feed good quality varied diet in small frequent meals. If you have access to live mosquito larva offer several rinsed for one meal a day to boost protein intake to support healing and immune response...
I don't mind stopping the meds; I was thinking about doing that myself earlier. The filter part worries me though: in such a small amount of water, shouldn't it need to be filtered more? Since it gets dirtier quicker? I'm all for the water change part.

I'm well aware that the fins may not be the same, but at this point, I just want him to have fins! So if clear/white fins are regrowth, what's the black? That's the part that worries me. It's not red or bloodied, it's black.

I'll try some other foods if I can get a good hold of them. I've tried bloodworms, but he doesn't seem to like them.
tisburylane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2012, 03:28 PM   #7 
Oldfishlady
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA
Black doesn't always mean rot or infection-sometimes black or discolored will be normal pigment. Usually with rot the black/discolored fin tips will be tattered and crusty not curly. A good pic of the area in question would be helpful.
Until the root cause of the damage is corrected-it will be difficult if not impossible to repair the damage to prevent secondary infections.

Filters only remove debris from the water column and hold it in the filter media-"Out of sight out of mind"-but its still in the tank being circulated over and over-Until it is manually removed or the beneficial bacteria colony established in great enough number to use it/convert it to a less harmful byproduct.
This is a closed system and nothing leaves the tank until we remove it manually or the beneficial bacteria convert it or active plant growth recycle it, however, even the good bacteria have a byproduct that can be harmful when it builds up-along with the DOC's that we don't test for.

In smaller filtered tanks you can establish the nitrogen cycle, however, due to the limited surface area the cycle may not be stable and the tank will still need twice weekly water changes to maintain water quality. The difference between 1-4gal filtered/cycled and unfiltered tanks will be the volume/percent of one of the twice weekly water changes.
This is based on a non-scientific experiment I conducted-with the understanding that several different things can altar these results.....Like-pH, GH/KH, source water, temp, type/amounts of food, plants...etc....to name a few....

The Betta doesn't produce as much byproduct as most think-Most water quality issues are caused by the fish food itself. Overfeeding and feeding poor quality foods that are not utilized by the Betta. What goes in-must come out and with poor quality food that the fish digestive system can't/doesn't use will be passed to become water quality problems.
Oldfishlady is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tail Biting.... again cjconcepcion Betta Fish Care 2 06-25-2012 06:07 PM
Can't tell if it's fin rot or tail biting chichi2130 Betta Fish Diseases and Emergencies 13 01-14-2012 10:41 PM
tail biting or something else?? missm83 Betta Fish Diseases and Emergencies 3 10-11-2011 06:12 PM
Tail biting or tail caught in filter? keelybambi Betta Fish Diseases and Emergencies 10 04-16-2011 12:20 PM
Tail Biting/ Ripped Tail serenityroyal Betta Fish Diseases and Emergencies 7 05-06-2010 12:59 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.