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Old 08-27-2012, 02:41 PM   #11 
PaulO
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I was thinking about marine land filters but several sites did point out that while the bio-wheel allows more room for bacteria it is another part that could potentially break or require extra maintenance. So I think I will just end up going with an aquaclear 10-30 g filter. Also I think I will have to get ammolock because I foolishly bought API Quick start (which does not work) and I am now doing 100% changes every 2 days on a 1.5 gallon. Needless to say I am wasting a ton of water and my fish are stressed. Also a quick question, I noticed both of the bettas I have (female, separate 1.5g tanks temporary) They both have this coppery gleam near their gills. Also the smaller one has a little bit of the coloring on the underside of her body running lengthwise on her bottom fin, could this be velvet, natural coloring or stress perhaps?
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:37 PM   #12 
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1: there is a great article online about a professional aquarium keeper(doctors offices, businesses, etc)...who did tons of testing on best filters...he disproved bio wheels...don't work....they have lowest amount of bacteria count, basically they don't do anything they were designed to do! Very scientific. His results found that the most stable systems have sponge filters or at least a sponge PRE-filter...they have the bacteria in enough quantities to handle an ammonia spike, whereas canister and HOB filters generally don't. This man found the best combo to have a sponge filter for bio filtering and a power filter/HOB/canister filter for picking up the bigger debris...says that having both will make the cleanest and clearest water.....try googling filters or bio wheel tests

Sorry, can't remember his name or website...found it on unrelated webbing and read whole article!

If you think your girls can possibly have velvet....check with flashlight and lights off or low...
Although, if they are acting ok, it could just be their coloring as it will change as they get older...definitely check for velvet...I usually leave lamp on across room, turn off tank lights and use flashlight to see if its gold dust or just copper iridescence.

Oh, and good choice on keeping the 10g and getting the 20g...if you've been bitten by betta bug as badly as I was, you'll be on aquabid finding the perfect boys to go in a divided tank fairly quickly! :)
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:56 PM   #13 
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1: there is a great article online about a professional aquarium keeper(doctors offices, businesses, etc)...who did tons of testing on best filters...he disproved bio wheels...don't work....they have lowest amount of bacteria count, basically they don't do anything they were designed to do! Very scientific. His results found that the most stable systems have sponge filters or at least a sponge PRE-filter...they have the bacteria in enough quantities to handle an ammonia spike, whereas canister and HOB filters generally don't. This man found the best combo to have a sponge filter for bio filtering and a power filter/HOB/canister filter for picking up the bigger debris...says that having both will make the cleanest and clearest water.....try googling filters or bio wheel tests

Sorry, can't remember his name or website...found it on unrelated webbing and read whole article!

If you think your girls can possibly have velvet....check with flashlight and lights off or low...
Although, if they are acting ok, it could just be their coloring as it will change as they get older...definitely check for velvet...I usually leave lamp on across room, turn off tank lights and use flashlight to see if its gold dust or just copper iridescence.

Oh, and good choice on keeping the 10g and getting the 20g...if you've been bitten by betta bug as badly as I was, you'll be on aquabid finding the perfect boys to go in a divided tank fairly quickly! :)
Checked the article you mentioned. While some points are valid there are some big flaws. He takes a regular hob and adds a sponge removing the regular filter media in those filters. I do the same thing with my biowheel filters. I remove the carbon filter media and replace with a sponge. This increases my overall filtering capability beyond the a basic hob with sponge filter installed. If in the event you need to rinse your sponge due to clogging, the biowheel will be left untouch and continue doing its job while your sponge is given time to recolonize its beneficial bacteria by being seeded by the biowheel. Biowheels do not need to be replaced unless you destroy one by stomping on it or something. I have the same biowheel running for over15 years. All you have to do when your feeding your fish is make sure the wheel is still turning. If its stopped means your foam filter is clogged up. BTW if you read the article carefully, it says that these filter systems have less flow by than the other filters. In other words water cannot bypass your filter media like most other hob filters.

I agree biowheels alone are not the best filters but adding a sponge into the filter tray makes it an exceptional filter system. In the article he mentions having a more than one filter system for back up. This is the beauty of the biowheel filters. You add sponge and have a biowheel running at the same time. its like having two filters running at the same time. Only thing you lack is a redundant pump. I have never had a marineland impeller die on me, not saying it can't happen just that in 25 years of being in this hobby they have never failed me.

In my 70 gallon koi tank I had 21 koi using 4 biowheels with the spray bars, not the hob type. The Biowheels were fed by my custom filters output. I had no air bubbler in the tank. All o2 exchanged happened via the spray bar hitting the biowheels and then the water splashing into the tank via the waterfall effect of the biowheel. This is another benefit. It helps agitate the water increasing the o2 and co2 gas exchange. My fish never gasped for air. Perhaps Marineland is over zealous with its advertisement but the biowheel does increase O2 exchange. While there is no major benefit of the o2 to bacteria colonization, the gas exchange helps the fish breath. The design of my custom filter has so much beneficial bacteria that it most certainly exhausted most of the o2 before being sprayed on the biowheels. I needed this constant agitation to re-oxygenate the water before putting it back in the tank.


BTW if you shut the lights and shine a flash light on your fish and you see gold speckles shining in the light you have velvet.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:25 AM   #14 
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Thank you guys about the info about the filters, but I already went out and bought an aquaclear, tank hood and ammo lock plus food. I eventually was gonna go back and buy a few mollies 2-3 and do a fish-in cycle but while I was there....I saw this just jaw dropping dragonscale plakat at petsmart. EEEE so anyway I SO badly just wanna go back say screw it with the mollies and buy him but I guess it wouldn't be the most responsible thing I already messed up once thinking I could keep the 2 fish I have in that 1.5 gallon tetra cube of DOOM. If anything if he's still back there when I go to buy some mollies I'll take a picture and will just have to think of the things that could have been :(. Anyway thank you guys for everything especially to whoever posted about the ammolock, I had completely forgot about it. And about my other 2 girls, if its velvet will it spread all over? and will certain symptoms/behaviors arise? I just want to be sure before I start treating with something like aquarium salt or going to the store and buying some antibiotic for them and stressing them out. So I guess thanks again :P and I will just see where things go from here I guess, sorry about the really long post/rant and thanks!
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:28 AM   #15 
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Also another thing, do you guys (and girls) make your own dividers? If not what brand do you recommend and what style ex. glass,acrylic,mesh,etc.? Thanks :D

P.S. I will eventually post the pic of the dragonscale if he's there...god he was gorgeous.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:34 AM   #16 
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Also another thing, do you guys (and girls) make your own dividers? If not what brand do you recommend and what style ex. glass,acrylic,mesh,etc.? Thanks :D

P.S. I will eventually post the pic of the dragonscale if he's there...god he was gorgeous.
Here is a good DIY divider-> http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/d...ividers-21866/

You can use two pieces of mesh to keep it strong. also you can use suction cups to secure it even more, rather than silicone (;

Everyone I've heard of buying dividers have thrown them away and made their own. Something about pet store dividers suck supposedly. xD
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:42 AM   #17 
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awesome!!! Thanks for the really fast reply lol. I already was gonna look into the DIY method divider but was a little scared that because I am new to aquariums something would go wrong. But I guess i will look into this and go but the materials when I go for the mollies. Thanks :)
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:27 AM   #18 
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Definitely do DIY dividers...store bought waste of $$...and if you use 2 screens or a mesh on one side, you can put aquatic moss like Taiwan or Java or Xmas moss in between, and voila, here you now have a moss wall dividing your tank :)...did it with 3 of my 10gallon tanks!
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Old 08-28-2012, 04:17 PM   #19 
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Dont mean to sound rude or offensive to anyone (and if someone feels so plz forgive me) but i wouldnt put my trust to any ammonia neutralizers as to have a fast cycle. Those products are best suited to be used as stop gap temporary methods for ammonia spikes till you can identify and remedie the problem. My experience shows it never works right. The best way is to cycle the tank the old fashioned way. Its a lot safer that way. Live plants also speed up the process a bit but its better not to rush things and compromise the safety of your fish.

Just my 2 cents really.
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Old 08-28-2012, 04:20 PM   #20 
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Dont mean to sound rude or offensive to anyone (and if someone feels so plz forgive me) but i wouldnt put my trust to any ammonia neutralizers as to have a fast cycle. Those products are best suited to be used as stop gap temporary methods for ammonia spikes till you can identify and remedie the problem. My experience shows it never works right. The best way is to cycle the tank the old fashioned way. Its a lot safer that way. Live plants also speed up the process a bit but its better not to rush things and compromise the safety of your fish.

Just my 2 cents really.
I reccomended sea Chem prime because it neutralizes ammonia so the ammonia is still there, but is not being harmful to the fish.
But yes, typically cycling products are just bull shark. (:

Especially if you have ammonia in your tap water like I do... It's great as an every day water conditioner because it's so concentrated you only need 2 drops per gallon.
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