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Old 11-15-2012, 10:14 PM   #2961 
Hallyx
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That's pretty much what a 100% water change looks like. Cup fish---clean decor, rinse gravel, refill (matching temp, with conditioner)---re-acclimate fish, slowly. The 50% just needs scooping out and replacing water.

When you get your 5g we'll coach you through cycling. Things get a lot easier after that. You'll use a siphon for draining water and never have to do a 100% change.
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Old 11-16-2012, 02:12 PM   #2962 
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Originally Posted by Rachelbug View Post
I just got my betta today and have been researching for a couple hours now. He is currently in a 1 gallon tank, with a 5 gallon one being shipped along with the light, heater, and filter. I know I am supposed to do a 50% water change and a 100% water change weekly and I was wondering what that looks like? Do you put the betta in a cup with the old water and then scoop out the rest or what? Help me please!
Never ever do 100% water change. You can put your betta in shock regardless if the water is clean or not. I would highly recommend doing 30% twice or once a week. If you get a small internal filter you can keep the water cleaner because of the constant flow of motion.
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Old 11-16-2012, 02:28 PM   #2963 
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If the tank isn't cycled then 100% changes are certainly needed to remove the ammonia in the tank. The goal should always be an ammonia reading of ZERO - if you are only doing partial water changes then the ammonia will continue to build up to toxic levels and "constant flow of motion" will do nothing to prevent that.
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Old 11-16-2012, 05:36 PM   #2964 
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Originally Posted by SwayLocks View Post
Never ever do 100% water change. You can put your betta in shock regardless if the water is clean or not. I would highly recommend doing 30% twice or once a week. If you get a small internal filter you can keep the water cleaner because of the constant flow of motion.
Never heard of constant motion cleaning water. filters bring oxygen into a bacteria culture tht resides in the filter media which breaks down ammonia and nitrites. water changes are needed to eliminate nitrates.

betta fish are perfectly fine with 100% water changes providing the new water is the same temperature as the old and fishie is properly acclimated.
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:14 PM   #2965 
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Originally Posted by Hallyx View Post
That's pretty much what a 100% water change looks like. Cup fish---clean decor, rinse gravel, refill (matching temp, with conditioner)---re-acclimate fish, slowly. The 50% just needs scooping out and replacing water.

When you get your 5g we'll coach you through cycling. Things get a lot easier after that. You'll use a siphon for draining water and never have to do a 100% change.
Okay so my 5g came in today and I have no clue what to do I rinsed out the inside and out now what :) I love you all!! :) Because I really want to do this right but have no idea what to do!!
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:24 PM   #2966 
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Well since you are probably not going to do a fishless cycle you should just fill up the 5 gallon with your tap, add water conditioner, turn the filter on and the heater a few minutes later. Wait till the temp is at 78 F or so. You can add the decor anytime you want before putting the betta in. And after all that is done, just acclimate and put the fish in. Then do water changes consistently. Check out the threads and stickies on this form on this site for more info :)
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:38 PM   #2967 
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I would strongly strongly advise purchasing an ammonia and nitrite test kit. I know many people on this forum have this mantra about when and how often to change water in tanks of certain sizes. But really each tank is unique, and depending on source water quality, stocking levels, presence of live plants, amount and type of food being fed, you may need to tailor a water change plan to suit your tank.

Without test kits and with an uncycled tank, you are basically going in blind. I have had fish swimming around quite normally in essentially toxic water due to a cycle crash so sometimes appearances can be deceiving.

Even exposure to 0.25ppm of ammonia for an extended period of time is going to be enough to stress your fish and leave it vulnerable to illness later on down the track.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:01 AM   #2968 
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That is a very important post, and very clearly explained.

This is the test kit you should use, and it's in sale at Amazon:
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1353412284&sr=8-1&keywords=API+test"]Amazon.com: API Freshwater Master Test Kit: Pet Supplies[/ame]


We always recommend cycling your tank if it's 5 gal and up, but there's no hurry. Read this:
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/b...ecific-107771/

Then read the other cycling stickies in the Bowls Habitats and Accessories section of the forum.

Take your time; set up your tank; get used to your fish and caring for him. Then you think you understand it and are ready to cycle your tank, ask any questions you may have in the Bowls and Habitats section. Well make sure you get it right.

Last edited by Hallyx; 11-20-2012 at 06:05 AM.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:03 AM   #2969 
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..

Last edited by Hallyx; 11-20-2012 at 06:06 AM.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:53 PM   #2970 
AyalaCookiejar
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Can cigarette smoke harm my fish, and how badly?

Also, how do you usually warm the water up to the right temp when doing 50% changes?
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