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Old 01-07-2013, 12:24 PM   #61 
AyalaCookiejar
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Specific types of anubias and java fern?

Which are best for beginners? And what are the differences?
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:41 PM   #62 
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the curly leaved windelov variety of java fern is a little more forgiving than the regular varities.
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:45 PM   #63 
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I have lace and regular (not sure of exact name but sold at PetsmArt) the lace doesn't do as well for me so regular, or windelove as suggested.

Anubias, bartieri, nana, practically any of them really
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:37 AM   #64 
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What's the difference between bartieri and nana? Lol

Also, I finally got a picture of those bulbs and also the light guards on the hood :p but today one of the lights decided to stop working. The bulbs are not the problem, its the hood.. I'm not sure if I can fix this or if I need a new hood... Anyways,



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Old 01-08-2013, 12:49 AM   #65 
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Hmm, Hopefully you dont have to purchase a new hood! their pretty pricey IMO.
It looks like the light bulbs fit just fine. I'm thinking a fuse or something popped. IDK how to fix it though, I've never had that issue yet.

As for bartieri and nana -- bartieri gets pretty big -- about the size of java fern probably and nana is a foreground plant --actually the roots are pretty thick on the nana type so I've started to plant them in the gravel and they stay in there a lot easier than the java fern does with their thin hair type roots.
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:59 AM   #66 
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That is one LOUSY condensation guard for your lights.

Incandescent lights are somewhat SEALED so moisture can't get inside.

CFL's are more susceptible to moisture issues. Any condensation is small enough to get INSIDE the bulb @ reach the circuitboard/microchips that ignite the gas that turns ON the CFL bulb.

Too much moisture/condensation around the electronics = short circuit.
  • Excess heat = melts the microchips (if you can smell plastic it's overheating)
  • Condensation = shorts out the circuits (lights start to flicker & buzzing noises)

Both will cause early bulb failure.

You need a better lid that keeps "water vapor" from getting INSIDE your bulb.
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:13 PM   #67 
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Thanks! I got another hood from petsmart not to long ago and I didn't get the incandescent one with the lousy guards this time... Instead I got the fluorescent one with a better guard.
Now my problem is I can find a long 18" fluorescent tube bulb that is more than 15watts. Should I just supplement by placing another lamp near the tank? I'm at menards now and still can't find any 20watt bulbs.
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:47 PM   #68 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AyalaCookiejar View Post
Thanks! I got another hood from petsmart not to long ago and I didn't get the incandescent one with the lousy guards this time... Instead I got the fluorescent one with a better guard.
Now my problem is I can find a long 18" fluorescent tube bulb that is more than 15watts. Should I just supplement by placing another lamp near the tank? I'm at menards now and still can't find any 20watt bulbs.
If its a t-5 or t-8 bulb you should be okay..
Also if you go to the lighting section of walmart they have 20w 18" flourescent tubes.


Also, I just wanted to show you the lights that I was talking about from walmart, if you ever end up needing more CFL's -- I've seen them in the fish section of all the walmarts in my area.
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:30 PM   #69 
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Well, it is a t8 bulb (full spectrum daylight) but its not that screw in type. It's the long bulbs that are like, connected to the hood on both sides? Lol.

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Old 01-09-2013, 11:48 PM   #70 
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LOL no I know what you meant.

T-8 is good. I have a 15watt t-8 over my 28 and it grows plants and algea like crazy!!!

I was just posting that pic in case you ever needed screw in flourescents again lol
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