New tank. What to do?

[Toaster11]

My one and only betts lives in a 1.5 gallon tank. I have had my eye on a 6 gallon tank lately. Do I need to cycle this tank first before adding my beta to it? I have done a little research on cycling and I'm a bit intimidated. Any tips?

[Syriiven]

Some people can be very strict about it.

It's been agreed that doing a fishless cycle is the easiest for both you and the fish, but plenty of people have done fish-in cycles just fine.

I've done both.

You don't 'need' to cycle it before hand, so long as you keep up with water changes when you see a spike in ammonia. Either way, a master test kit that tests ammonia, nitrites and nitrates is a must.

For fish-in cycles, true aquatic plants help quite a bit with spikes in everything. Hardy, beginner stuff would be java moss, java fern, anacharis, marimo (moss balls)...

If your betta is healthy, you could go ahead with a fish-in cycle. Monitor him closely and test your water every day to watch for any crazy spikes, and do water changes accordingly.

When I got back in the hobby and found all this info I was intimidated too, and was getting fanatical and anal about stuff. But then I stepped back, and let me fish's behavior and regular tests show me that everything was fine. Stressing too much can be just as bad as not caring. So don't worry =)

OH yeah tips; add some gravel from your betta's original tank and swish the filter through the new 6g water for some already made good bacteria to help the cycle.

[Perseusmom]

I agree if you have a test kit and keep up with water changes and a few live plants a fish in cycle is not bad, I did one with my 5 gallon although I did worry alot since he is my first fish ever but it was worth it and he did fine though out all the water changes and really seemed to enjoy them and still does. There is a sticky here somewhere on doing a fish in cycle I will see if I can find it and post it for you. Also be sure and pick up a bottle of Prime water conditioner as it will detox ammonia, nitrite and nitrate for 48 hours and I would not be without it when doing a fish in cycle. Its only 2 drops er gallon and you can always add more after 48 hours in between water changes. Here is the link to some good information about cycling. http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=99450

[Surferjo]

Will you be filtering your tank? I have done quite a few Fish in cycles and have never run into any problems. Now granted I tend to treat all my tanks (Filtered/not filtered, planted/not planted) as unfiltered. I do 50% at least 2-3 times a week. It takes a lot longer to cycle because I'm too OCD to let it spike. but eventually it does. Remember you need oxygen to create BB so without an over the top filter or an air stone you really wont get a good cycle.

[Toaster11]

Should I have done a cycle for my 1.5 gallon? I basically just put in water and the tap water conditioner then set my betta in. Had him for 6 months now. No problems. I will be using a filter that is connected to the lid. I also do not own a test kit. But i guess i should go get one if I am going to start a new tank. I also do not have any live plants.

[Shadyr]

A 1.5 is generally not considered cycle-able. I'm sure someone somewhere has done it, but it's not feasible for most people. You don't *have* to cycle, with small tanks water changes aren't that much trouble (unless you have lots) and with bigger tanks, it is almost destined to happen eventually anyway if you have a filter. The biggest thing you should be aware of if you do try to cycle is to watch your ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite levels, and just make sure to do additional water changes to keep the water non-toxic when you catch one of those spiking.

[Toaster11]

Originally Posted by Shadyr

A 1.5 is generally not considered cycle-able. I'm sure someone somewhere has done it, but it's not feasible for most people. You don't *have* to cycle, with small tanks water changes aren't that much trouble (unless you have lots) and with bigger tanks, it is almost destined to happen eventually anyway if you have a filter. The biggest thing you should be aware of if you do try to cycle is to watch your ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite levels, and just make sure to do additional water changes to keep the water non-toxic when you catch one of those spiking.

Would it be better to not have a filter then? and at what size tank does cycling become recommended?

[Shadyr]

If you can do the water changes, would be fine to pass on the filter. A lot of the big finned boys seem to like less current too. My 3 and 2.5s do not have filters. My 6.6 does, and is probably about the smallest for a filter. 10 gallons..yes filter/cycle.

[Surferjo]

I had a Fluval spec which is a really nice 2 gallon with a filter. It worked but the return was totally stupid. I have to assume that the HM Betta was not the targeted fish for this tank (they really are not the best swimmers out there). 2 gallons was pretty easy to move to and from the sink but in the end I find vacuuming my 6.2 gallon easier.







I built this filtered 6.2 myself mostly because I got tired of maintaining 4 separate tanks. I still do 50% twice a week but its super fast with the little aqueon mini vacuum


A 5 gallon tank is about 42-45 lbs when filled. Its not that heavy but the sloshing around is a pain.

[Hallyx]

Originally Posted by Surferjo

Remember you need oxygen to create BB so without an over the top filter or an air stone you really wont get a good cycle.

Good call, Surferjo. This is an often forgotten and important element of tank cycling. A sponge filter is ideal for this. It also provides a large volume in which to grow a healthy nitrifying bacteria colony.

Any tank of any size can be cycled. Any tank 2.5g and up should be cycled, in my opinion. Even frequent partial water changes will not keep ammonia at 0.0ppm. An established cycled tank can and will.

A cycled tank is not for the convenience of the keeper, but for the health and safety of the fish.

If performing a fish-in cycle, it is highly recommended to have lots of live plants to absorb any ammonia spikes. Floating plants like water sprite, duckweed or wisteria are good. Anacharis and Hornwort a great ammonia sponges. Unfortunately Anubias, Java fern, Java moss, mossballs and other low-light beginner plants are too slow-growing to make much difference in water quality.