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Old 03-04-2013, 08:54 PM   #91 
soady
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I would recommend getting at least 2 of those.. and a way to light them, as living in the dark isn't good for them.. and you will still need the jars and a way to heat the jars because... again... they need to grow before you sell them and they will need to be separated weeks before you sell them. How are you going to be able to see them clearly to know which ones are deformed or sick when in a dark bucket?

SO ... at least another grow out tank, unless you plan to kill off most of them.
A way to light the buckets so they don't live in absolute dark..
Jars and a way to heat them all.

Can't skimp.. this guy may give you a few cents for the fish, but they should at least be healthy and active, and big enough.

You are breeding to breed, and if you think you will make money on it you won't. You aren't doing it for the love of the species, if you did you would put in at least half the effort needed to properly raise them... can't skimp, you skimp you kill.

What do you plan to feed them?
It sounds like a good idea to get two 15-20 gallon containers which will be covered. I would be grateful if you gave me a piece of advice on when to split them up, and how. They won't be in darkness, I will put a table lamp above them. I will also buy a heater for each one. Once I separate them in jars, they will all be heated together, by heating the water that the jars are in.

I plan to feed them infusoria for the first week, and then continue with BBS, and gradually add more types of food like boiled egg yolk and frozen red mosquito larvae, frozen daphnia, frozen artemia, etc.

I won't cull any myself, I will let the father do it. I will remove him if he culls too many.
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:16 PM   #92 
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On another thread we discussed using plastic tubs as grow-outs. I'm a woman living alone- I can't manage lifting/managing a glass 40 gallon. I'm going to get 4-6 clear storage tubs @ Walmart for grow-outs- I can stack & store them later. Yes! I have a spare 5 heaters!!! Besides, a heater & a tub are cheaper than a 40-gal glass tank & a heater!
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:23 AM   #93 
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Plastic tubs are great because they are easier to warm, and if they are see through, they are perfect. Just make sure to cover the top with a lid or cellophane with tiny holes so the air above the water would stay humid.
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:33 AM   #94 
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I wouldn't try feeding them the frozen foods - their mouths won't be able to eat it. Normally the first couple of days (after egg sacs are gone) you will want to start on either infusoria (which lasts only for a few days), NEWLY hatched BBS (as they start to grow, even in 24hrs, they will become less nutritious, too big for the fry), and micro worms/banana worms/vinegar eels/walter worms, etc.. as they are microscopic. The frozen foods you listed won't be able to feed the fry - not to mention they tend not to eat anything that isn't alive and wiggling.. so would look into finding the other foods before you get eggs. Those will be fed for the first month+.. and start sooner rather than later at getting your clutures growing, as you will be feeding a lot of it and if you don't have some strong cultures you can easily run out of food. You can feed BBS all the time - but many experience SBD when doing so, so it's a risk. IMO, it's better to mix it up just enough as to not cause over eating issues.

Egg yolk really isn't idea.. a few breeders use it, but majority don't like to because it fouls up the water really quickly and it stinks.. very dirty.. especially since they will be in a small tank (if you're still using the 4g), you will want to avoid the egg yolk - stick with newly hatched BBS, micro cultures that I listed as their first food for the first month+.

Xalt- make sure the heaters are adjustable and can warm up the tubs to 82-84 - for that size I would go 75-150 watt heaters.
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:57 AM   #95 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myates View Post
I wouldn't try feeding them the frozen foods - their mouths won't be able to eat it. Normally the first couple of days (after egg sacs are gone) you will want to start on either infusoria (which lasts only for a few days), NEWLY hatched BBS (as they start to grow, even in 24hrs, they will become less nutritious, too big for the fry), and micro worms/banana worms/vinegar eels/walter worms, etc.. as they are microscopic. The frozen foods you listed won't be able to feed the fry - not to mention they tend not to eat anything that isn't alive and wiggling.. so would look into finding the other foods before you get eggs. Those will be fed for the first month+.. and start sooner rather than later at getting your clutures growing, as you will be feeding a lot of it and if you don't have some strong cultures you can easily run out of food. You can feed BBS all the time - but many experience SBD when doing so, so it's a risk. IMO, it's better to mix it up just enough as to not cause over eating issues.

Egg yolk really isn't idea.. a few breeders use it, but majority don't like to because it fouls up the water really quickly and it stinks.. very dirty.. especially since they will be in a small tank (if you're still using the 4g), you will want to avoid the egg yolk - stick with newly hatched BBS, micro cultures that I listed as their first food for the first month+.

Xalt- make sure the heaters are adjustable and can warm up the tubs to 82-84 - for that size I would go 75-150 watt heaters.
I will get two heaters and two 20 gallon plastic containers. (I gave up the idea of spawning them in 4g a while ago) Thanks for the feeding advice, I will probably reconsider egg yolk and focus on BBS (newly hatched). At what time will they be able to eat frozen food? (if I cut it up in small pieces, not to give them whole red mosquito larvae etc.) I will get as many different live cultures as I can find.
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:38 PM   #96 
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About a month and a half you can start introducing other foods such as freeze dried tubifex worms, black worms, etc. After a couple weeks you can attempt dry foods such as fry flakes/powder, etc. Those don't always tend to go well - I'm trying to get some of my fry to eat that stuff now, mixing in with their live foods.. but not going so well lol. Most fry have a hard time eating anything that isn't moving. But for the frozen.. I would have to say if diced up very very small possibly about 6-8 weeks in. Unsure exactly though - I was actually planning on attempting just that in about 3 weeks myself.

Careful to not over feed the BBS - some times you will get some fry that end up with SBD issues from over feeding. Can't really help it.. and it's not all the time. Just be aware of it is all. I feed mine mix of the micro cultures (3-4 of them) 2x a day, and BBS 1-2x a day.. some days I skip the BBS, some days I feed a bit more. They are actually starting to get more of it now as they are getting a bit bigger and I feel they can handle more of it.
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:02 PM   #97 
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Looking in my stash of food, I found a package of "Pure Aquatic" Fry Food. It's a pouch containing a liquid food-"Ideal for all fry" it claims. The 1st ingredient is fish meal. Anyone had experience w/ this?
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:11 PM   #98 
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Thanks again, Myates! Good luck with your fry.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:36 AM   #99 
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Xald - fish meal is just a mush up of fish parts..

Fry tend not to eat anything if it's not moving when they are little. Some may, but generally most won't. A package of liquid food probably isn't going to contain the protein that these little fish require. Honestly, I would just stick to what is proven and the best foods - live.
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:05 AM   #100 
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Just another small suggestion. Be careful with the heater in the plastic container. It can melt the container and possibly even start a fire. What I do, is fill up a flower vase with water, place that in the container, and place the heater inside the cvase. This will keep the heater off the plastic. :)
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