Aeration needed w/Triple sulfa???

[Fifi]

Does anybody know if I need to aerate my 2.5g unfiltered hospital tank while treating w/API Triple sulfa (for fin rot)? I have read that tanks should be aerated when using certain antibiotics. Don't know if sulfa is one of them. Thanx in advance!

[MattsBettas]

Have you tried plain old aquarum salt and warm water?

[Fifi]

Yes, I have been battling this for a while. I tried MarcynII, then 10 days of salt treatment. No luck at all. Then I used Triple sulfa for 12 days & started to see SLOW results. I stopped & transferred Oscar to a 2.5g while I fishlessly cycled his 5g. He freaked out, layed at the bottom in shock or depression & the fin rot returned. I started treating with salt for 5days, but could see the fins worsening so I decided to go back to the sulfa.

[callistra]

You've used meds for 21 days? Followed by salt for an additional 5? You need to stop. You're going to toast his kidneys.

Something is wrong here if the meds didn't work for this long.. either dosing or water changes.. something..

I remember your old thread and his reaction is because you didn't acclimate and shocked him during the move.

In the 5g you need a 50% change mid week and a 100% change at week's end. You need an in tank thermoemter and 25-50w adjustable heater that will keep his tank an EVEN/unchanging temp between 78-80F.

Salt should have been used at 1 tsp per gallon and it should have been a 10 day treatment. How were you dosing the triple sulfa and maracyn II?

Please share photos.

[Fifi]

The Triple sulfa was only 12 days. I waited 2wks after that first course of Triple sulfa & started salt for 4 days (1tsp/gal). On the 5th day, fins were worse so I did 100% water chg. & began sulfa again. The MarcynII was for 4days back in Jan. (a full course). I then waited 1 week & began 10 days of salt. I waited 10 days after that to begin sulfa. I check ammonia levels & chg water usually every other day in the 5g. I do have in tank thermometer & heater set between 78-80. I do not know what to do. I know it sounds like a lot, but the rot does not go away with salt. I've read antibiotics should be con't until regrowth appears, but I don't know if that is safe. Please advise. I have never neglected the water cleanliness, so I don't know why the rot is so persistent. Thanks for your help!

Oh, I dosed the Marcyn II & API Triple sulfa according to directions, dissolved into a bit of tank water before introducing into tank.

[callistra]

Well you had him in a 2.5g. This required two water changes a week of 50% and 100%, but while he's sick you should have done at least 50% every other day and 100% weekly. You talked about not doing a water change until day 5..

In the 5g you can cut back to 50% mid-weekly and 100% week's end so it will be easier to keep him well. Whatever you were doing, do it like this now.

Well my concern with dosing is that he was in either a 2.5g or a 5g while you were dosing and the packets are for 10g.. so how did you dilute for the size container he was in?

We really need photos

[Fifi]

He is in the 2.5g now. You had mentioned that any cycle I had going was ruined w/sulfa. Since I was finally seeing regrowth I did not want any trouble to develope while I cycled the 5g. I never waited 5days to water chg. i used salt for 5 days but would chg water & re-add salt per every gal i removed. I kept reading how fish-in cycling was terrible for fish. So I moved him, shocked him & he relapsed w/the rot. When treating in either tank I carefully cut meds into proper portions. In the 5g I would cut the packet in half & remove I bit of that since the tank really only has about 4g of water. W/the 2.5 I have to cut the half in half. It is a pain, but I am as careful as possible with dosing. I did follow your advice on water changes. I really wish I knew what I am doing wrong that the rot should be so pernicious. I am very worried about moving him again to the 5g. It may have been shock, but I did acclimate over an hour period. I think he also get depressed whenever moved & I don't want to keep aggravating things. If I quite the meds & the rot continues what would you recommend? I will post pictures when I get home. Again, sincere thanx.

[callistra]

Okay, so in the 2.5g you should do 50% every other day and 100% by week's end. It's your call which you want to treat in, but you'll have to move him less if he's in the 5g. Also if you do the water changes like I outlined in the other thread you won't shock him anymore... using thermometer under running tap to match tank water.. hour long acclimation, etc.

Cutting is also not accurate. If you overdose you can actually cause chemical burns to the skin, and if you underdose then you will just breed a resistant infection. The problem was the dosage of meds.. at this point anything you've used you can't use again.

The salt also had to be predissolved and not just added right? Again, not dissolved can caused burns that look black.. Also want to confirm that this was the salt you used? http://www.apifishcare.com/products/...x?productid=49

If he does need meds you'll have to get something you haven't tried, and I will help you dilute it properly this time, but not so sure he needs it just yet..

[Fifi]

Yes, that is the salt I use. I did pre dissolve in tank water. I will stop sulfa & follow water chg recommendations. I dont remember seeing the instructions for acclimating, but i will search the old thread. If the rot persists which I expect it to, what is the best course of action? I will send pics as soon as possible.

[callistra]

Maybe I did not comment on your thread.. this is how I suggest changes, except for you since it is larger just use your siphon for the 50% not a baster

The 50% changes the betta can be kept in the bowl and use a turkey baster to remove half the water and as much of the debris as possible. For the 100% you need to remove him - scoop him out with a plastic solo type cup and set aside while you thoroughly rinse the bowl and gravel to remove the debris. Then he should be acclimated to the new water by floating for an hour while you slowly add a couple tablespoons of new water to the cup every 10 minutes. When you release him, try to let as little of the old cup water back into the tank as possible. All water changes should use same temp water, matched to running tap using the in tank thermometer and the water needs to be premixed with conditioner before adding it to the betta tank. If you don't already have anything, you can use gallon water jugs from the grocery store - rinsed thoroughly in hot water but no chems.

If it persists look for Kanaplex and Furan 2 and use in combo. Anything that's resistant to all that you have tried is worrisome.. you may need to order online.