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MUST READ! General Betta Care and FAQ (V. 3.0)

534K views 401 replies 207 participants last post by  Sakura8 
#1 ·
:arrow: General Betta Care and FAQ
Index:
-Introduction
-Background Information
-Classification and General Care
-Needed Tank Equipment
-Maintenance
-FAQ


:arrow: Introduction:

Bettas are one of the most popular fish kept. Most people think they need zero to little care, but that is not the case. Here is an important topic for everyone wanting to see the best conditions for their betta.


:arrow: Background Info:
Bettas come from tropical areas in Asia, from Thailand to Borneo, to Malaysia, to Cambodia. Here is a sticky for that needed information: http://www.fishforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=10494. Two male bettas should never be placed in the same tank unless it has a divider. In the wild, bettas do not fight to the death. They fight until there is a clear winner for territory, then the lesser male will go off and hide, or jump to another area to find safety (which is why bettas should always be in covered tanks, but still have access to air). In small tanks, there is no where to hide, thus leading to deaths. Bettas are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish for that reason.

:arrow: Sexing:
Male Betta Splendens *generally* have longer fins than females, but there some cases in which that is incorrect. Male Plakats have short fins, for example. The only sure way to sex them is to look for a white, egg spot on a females underside near the anal fin. Here are some basic pictures of Betta Spendens to show that.

Male Betta (with labeled features):


Female Betta:


Wild Betta. You can see the common household betta has changed and morphed a lot:


:arrow: Classification and General Care:

Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Subphylum: Vertebrata
Class: Actinoptergii
Order: Perciformes
Suborder: Anabantoidei
Family: Belontiidae
Genus: Betta
Species: Betta splendens

-Scientific Name: Betta spendens
-Common Names: Betta, Siamese Fighting Fish
-Care Level: Easy when under proper conditions (see needed tank supplies)
-Max Size: 3 inches
-pH level: 6.0-8.0
-Temperature: Should not fall below 76, better yet 78 degrees. A good range is 76-86F. Bettas are tropical fish that need high temperatures. A heater is needed.
-Life Span: 3-6 years.
-Diet: In the wild, they feed off of mosquito larvae, mosquitos, other insects and their larvae, daphnia, and worms. In the home aquaria many bettas won’t eat flake food. If you choose to try offering flakes, please be sure they are specifically betta flakes and not tropical flakes. Tropical flake food does not provide the proper nutrition for a betta. Meaty foods should be their staple diet. Vegetables should be avoided. Peas are sometimes suggested for bettas, please don’t. A betta’s digestive tract is not designed to handle that kind of roughage in their diet, thus the reason it acts like a laxative. Feeding peas to a betta can severely damage their digestive tract and lead to permanent damage and early death.
-Tank Region: All over, but mainly the Top.


Here is a list of betta species. All have their own special needs, and are very exotic (Scientific name, then Common Name)

Betta akarensis (Akar Betta)
Betta albimarginata (Betta Albimarginata)
Betta anabatoides (Giant Betta)
Betta balunga (Betta Balunga)
Betta bellica (Slender Betta)
Betta breviobesus (Betta Breviobesus)
Betta brownorum (Brown's Betta)
Betta burdigala (?)
Betta channoides (?)
Betta chini (?)
Betta chloropharynx (Greenthroat Mouthbrooder)
Betta coccina (Wine Red Betta)
Betta dimidiata (Dwarf Mouthbrooder)
Betta edithae (New Ediths Mouthbrooder)
Betta enisae (Blue Band Mouthbrooder)
Betta falx (?)
Betta foerschi (Betta foerschi)
Betta fusca (Brown Betta)
Betta hipposideros (?)
Betta imbellis (Peaceful Betta)
Betta krataios (?)
Betta livida (?)
Betta macrophthalma (Big Eye Mouthbrooder)
Betta macrostoma (Peacock Mouthbrooder)
Betta miniopinna (Small Fin Fighter)
Betta ocellata (Eyespot Mouthbrooder)
Betta patoti (?)
Betta persephone (Black Small Fighter)
Betta pi (?)
Betta picta (Javan Mouth-Brooding Fighting Fish
Betta pinguis (?)
Betta prima (Threelined Mouthbrooder)
Betta pugnax (Forest Betta, Malayan Betta, Penang betta)
Betta pulchra (Beauty Mouthbrooder)
Betta renata (Betta Renata)
Betta rubra (Red Sumatran Fighter)
Betta rutilans (Redish Dwarf Fighter)
Betta schalleri (Schallers Mouthbrooder)
Betta simorum (Simor Fighter)
Betta simplex (Simple Mouthbrooder)
Betta smaragdina (Smaragd Fighting Fish)
Betta spilotogena (Double Lipspot Mouthbrooder)
Betta splendens (Siamese Fighting Fish)
Betta strohi (Father Strohs Mouthbrooder)
Betta taeniata (Betta Taeniata)
Betta tomi (Tomi Mouthbrooder)
Betta trifasciata (Betta Trifasciata)
Betta tussyae (Tussys Small Red Fighter)
Betta unimaculata (One Spot Mouthbrooder)
Betta waseri (Wasers Mouthbrooder)
:arrow: Needed Tank Equipment:

-Tank of AT LEAST 2 Gallons. Some people believe in 5 gallons as minimum. Yes, a fish can live in small tanks, but they thrive in proper conditions in roomy areas.
-Heater. heater, heater, heater. This is absolutely needed. The temperature in the tank needs to stay at least at 78 degrees. These are tropical fish, and become very lethargic if kept in cold water. A light will not be sufficient enough for heat. In the night, temperature can easily drop 8+ degrees, which can kill as fish. Room temperature is not enough either. Hydor makes a wonderful heater for small tanks of 2.5 gallons and less. It resembles a heating pad and they work wonderfully while not being overly expensive.
-Hiding Spots: Hiding spots, such as caves, make bettas fell secure. This way, they can escape from light and rest. Make sure the hiding spots are not sharp, as bettas have very delicate fins.
-Filter: This is actually not needed, but it helps. Bettas need a light filter with low flow. They should have very little water movement in a tank. The filter will also keep water clean.
-Light: This helps when it gets dark. Most tanks come with some sort of light, but if not, that should be fine. Simple desk lamps or reading lamps can help give yoru betta the right amount of light.
-Thermometer: This will help keep the temperature under control.
-Liquid Test Kit: A liquid Test Kit will help keep you know your Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH levels. Ammonia and nitrite should always be 0, nitrates under 20ppm, and pH at a level of 6-7.5.
-Access to Air. Betta spendens gets its oxygen from breathing air at the surface. That is the function of the labyrinth organ. If a betta can’t reach the surface for oxygen, it will drown. For this reason, while it is important to offer a well decorated environment, it is also important to make sure the betta has plenty of easy access to the surface of the water. The air temp above the water needs to be close to the temp of the water to avoid infections and shock.

Here is a good Betta Tank:

It includes a heater, hood, live plants, and hiding spots. Perfect!

:arrow: Maintenance:

A betta needs some sort of maintenance, as would any other fish. They are not "magic fish" and can take care of themselves. Here is a list to insure the best care of your betta in which you, the owner, must provide.

1) Weekly Water changes. A filter cannot take out everything in the water. Would you like to live in your own poop? This is why bettas need regular water changes.
A betta tank should never need 100% water changes unless working with medications. Too drastic of a change in water params can cause illness and death to any fish. Bettas can withstand more than the average tropical fish, and 50% changes are good for them if done frequently enough. The smaller the tank size the more frequent the water changes should be done. Anything under 2.5 gallons should have a 50% change every other day. 2.5 and more should have 50% changes at least twice/wk. If a filter is running in the tank, 50% changes once/wk are usually plenty.
2) Testing Water. You need to keep an eye out for your bettas water paramaters. Water params are nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, pH, and water hardness. A good liquid test kit will help determine what is in the water. Ammonia and nitrite should be at 0, and nitrates under 20. The pH level should be between 6-7.5. If any levels seem wrong, do a water change to get clean water in the tank.
 
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#346 ·
Thank you Sunlight. After reading the whole post on soil based tanks (Twolovers provided the link) I was thinking of going with live plants until I reread posts about cycling. I would hate to get rid of the set up I have since I spent a good deal of money on it. I already ordered the Prime and the API test kit and both should be here tomorrow or Saturday.

I am going to clean everything the way you and Twolovers suggested and start over. I AM going to buy a thermometer to keep an eye on the temperature. The 25 watt heater is adjustable so that's all good. And I totally agree with what you said about buying the fish when the new shipment comes in.

I've decided to be patient and do the fishless cycle using a couple drops of ammonia and watching everything for a couple weeks or however long it takes to make sure the water is ready. I still feel terrible that I killed my first fish from lack of experience, but I'm so happy I found this site. I've learned a lot already and thank you for your help :)
 
#349 ·
I thoroughly cleaned my tank and decorations yesterday and about 8 hours ago I refilled it and added a couple drops of ammonia to start a fishless cycle. Referring back to my original post on here, this is my first tank and due to some misinformation by Petsmart my first Betta died in three days :( From the good people on here I learned to cycle my tank first and to purchase the API Mater test kit. I just did the tests just to see and I'm wondering how can my results be so good? Am I testing to early? should I have waited 24 hours? It looks like the ammonia is on the .25 side, PH test was 7.6, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?
 
#350 ·
I have a question: Aside from feeding my betta splendens Aqueon Betta pellets, I want to mix it up: would freeze-dried bloodworms and sun dried baby shrimp work? Is it guaranteed that a betta will eat a little snail, or is it only when it is in the mood. I'm just worried that if I got a little one it might not be eaten and repeatedly reproduce. It was horrible! Snails we everywhere when I had a Dwarf African Frog!

Also, I have plants, will this be sufficent to decompose waste for fertilizer or is a snail recommended? They are tiny cuttings I am trying to grow back. What are some types of snails that do not reproduce when they want to - one snail stays one snail!
 
#352 ·
Freeze dried foods are OK but frozen ones are better for them. As long as you don't over feed them, or feed them too often you are good to go.

Nerite snails may be a good choice if you want a snail companion. I believe their eggs only hatch in salt water.
 
#355 ·
why is my veiltail betta fish only eat when i'm not around,and why does it only flare at the mirror for a fraction of a second then move on. I considering getting a cave but i think the 2 1/2 centimeter holes will scratch MR. Bubbles.
And can someone help me, can you find a marble betta at walmart or petco i think their gorgeous
 
#357 ·
I think this post saved my its life. I didnt know anything about Bettas before reading this i did notice he wasnt eating and i found out from this that one he was freezing still is i add warm water to his tank every now and again he is in a .3 gallon so i have to get a 2gallon hawkeye delivered he still needs a heater
 
#361 ·
So you can keep a betta at the same temperature as other tropical fish, like neon tetras, angelfish, all those that require a heater, etc...
 
#365 ·
It could either be him showing his true colouration (most likely) a jumping gene or something is wrong. Check your water with a test kit.
 
#366 ·
Ack! My daughter and I just bought a Betta today, an I got it a one gallon bowl so it would be light enough for her to lift it and change the water on her own. Guess it will end up being a backup bowl. I didn't want to start with a full setup if she might not remain interested. I've had aquariums and ended up keeping my Betta in a small bowl because the other fish attacked him. He lived in a tiny 3 cup bowl for 3 years! Now I feel bad, and was thinking the one gallon bowl was a good start. Well, give us a little time and we will get a better aquarium. It will be fun, and things seemed to have changed a bit since 20 years ago!
 
#367 ·
Hi I am new to this site so forgive me if I am posting in the wrong forum but I have an urgent question about my betta.

Size of tank is 1.5
Male betta just got him last month, a walmart rescue
The temperature when i got him was 68 degrees and he was lively and swiming everywhere. Got the filter and he was still doing great. Then I bought a heater for 2-15 galleon and the temperature is at 74 degrees. With the heater in I took the filter out and the tank looks cloudy and Fish has just stopped moving much. He isnt swiming around everywhere just lays at the bottom of the tank. He does have a white fin but its not fuzzy or anything, just a white fin.

Any help? I took the heater out and am going to put the filter back in. Also I have been using distilled water.
 
#368 ·
I'm no expert but you should probably change at least 50% of the water and you need to use water conditioner. I don't think using distilled water is a wise choice but if that's all you've been using than I guess it's been working for you. Keep the filter in, change the water and get water conditioner like Prime. I have to say I've never heard of using a filter in a 1.5 gallon bowl but again if it works then by all means continue using it and think about upgrading to at least a 5 gallon tank.

Good luck :)
 
#370 ·
I jave a heater and a filter in a 1.5 gallon, and romeo loves it! But he's still being upgraded this weekend....
 
#372 ·
I clean my beta's 2.5 gallon tank completely every 8 days. I run all plants, her house, heater and filter and all the gravel under warm tap water. I put a splash of white vinegar in her empty tank, fill it with water and use a bottle cleaning thing to scrub the entire tank with, then rinse it 6-8 times in the shower. Then I refill the tank with decorations (same ones, except for 1 or 2 different ones), put tap water in, conditioner, and plug the heater back in. When the water reaches the high 70's, I graduaiiy add her new aquarium water to the temporary tank she is in. I add water every 15 minutes for 1 hour. My question is I bought some aquarium salts because I thought she had swim bladder. She is fine now, but should I use the salts in place of the vinegar, rinse them out, or add them to her tank?
 
#377 ·
I clean my beta's 2.5 gallon tank completely every 8 days. I run all plants, her house, heater and filter and all the gravel under warm tap water. I put a splash of white vinegar in her empty tank, fill it with water and use a bottle cleaning thing to scrub the entire tank with, then rinse it 6-8 times in the shower. Then I refill the tank with decorations (same ones, except for 1 or 2 different ones), put tap water in, conditioner, and plug the heater back in. When the water reaches the high 70's, I graduaiiy add her new aquarium water to the temporary tank she is in. I add water every 15 minutes for 1 hour. My question is I bought some aquarium salts because I thought she had swim bladder. She is fine now, but should I use the salts in place of the vinegar, rinse them out, or add them to her tank?
Please clarify what I have been doing. I have a 2.5 mini bow tank, when its time to change the water I have been doing is running the tap water into my brita then pour into two pots, let sit for two days then pour into tank, then add water conditioner. Should I avoid the brita part and pour tap water into pots let sit for two days then pour into tank or just add the tap water directly into tank, condition then put fish in?
 
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