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Old 04-28-2013, 03:35 PM   #1 
Bettafeathers
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It never ends...now ich, paleness etc...

I want it to end! Agh. It seems like I'm always battling something in one tank or another. These two boys share a 10 gallon divided tank. Heated to ~78-80F and filtered. Fed NLS pellets and the occasional frozen bloodworm. I haven't tested the parameters recently but plan to, can post the results of that later.

My DT had swimbladder issues a few weeks ago ago paired with some fin rot issues beforehand. Both were treated successfully (fins growing back) but he got super pale during all of this. I figured it was just stress and he would color back up to his nice marbly purple. No go. He's mostly a pale brown-ish color and has the horozontal stripes which I assume to be stress stripes? His fin rot seems to be coming back as well . He is eating well and swimming well, he just looks like one of those pathetic bettas in a cup at the LPS...all pale and with tattered fins. Any insight into why he may be so pale and pathetic looking?

Also, my new CT I got two weeks ago started to have little white spots on his body. They are difficult to see under some light but I've been planning to treat it as Ich as this is what it looks like, just in its early stages. They are in 1 tsp/gal Aq. Salts and I'll be off to turn the heater up a touch more once I'm done this.

I figure the Aq. Salt will help tackle the ich and the fin rot at the same time which is nice. I would like to do something about the paleness of the DT though, it is concerning. I need some more water (ran out of city water) but I will do a water change tomorrow once I get that. I have IAL, would that help to put some in? Is there anything else I should do?

I also have live plants in the tank (java fern, anubias, vallisneria (Sp?) and a moss ball. Should I be concerned about the salt with those?

Sorry for so many questions but I welcome any advice
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Old 04-29-2013, 06:33 AM   #2 
lilnaugrim
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I know that plants don't really like salt over time so I would advise putting the boys into two smaller cups/containers while you treat them. Ich cannot live without a host so this would kill it in the 10 gallon while you treat your fish. You can do 3 teaspoons (or 1 tablespoon) of aq. salt per gallon. If you have small cups you can float them in with lids so they can't escape this would be best. Then just change their water 100% everyday and add new salt to their containers.

If you have a 1 gallon QT tank/bowl you can mix up the salt mixture in there and pour it into their QT bowls they will be floating in so you know you have the right mixture.

Although I'm not sure about the paleness of the DT, perhaps he's still just stressed from all of this and will color up in time? Also when you treat the 10 gallon, it's best to treat both at the same time so that there are no inhabitants in the tank for the Ich to survive off of.

Other than that, that's about all I can comment on, good luck!
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Old 04-30-2013, 12:21 AM   #3 
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Thanks for the advice lilnaugrim! I will see what I can find for smaller containers to float them in. The temperature is at ~80f right now. The CT has been resting a lot at the bottom of the tank and is definitely lethargic. The DT is being his cheeky self. I'm hoping that the DT will color up and that he's just been a bit stressed. That's good to know that ich dies off without a host. How long should I QT them to avoid re-infection? Thanks again, hopefully I can update with news of happy fish soon!
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:37 AM   #4 
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It seems the usual life cycle is around 7 days. But in some cases it can go away within 72 hours.

For Ich, it's best to raise the temperature to aroun 85-86 if you can but if not that's fine. Also you can either continue to treat with the Aquarium salt or you can run out to get medicine for them. It depends on what's easier for you, for my 10 gallon I used salt and it was fine while I floated both the boys. But in my 33 gallon, it was a little harder to put 21 fish in containers and change them out everyday so I bought Ich Attack by Kordon to treat it and it worked very well with very little damage to my plants and all my fish were absolutely fine.

Also the good thing bout Kordon that I liked is that it is 100% natural and you don't have to do water changes in between the treatments which is what sold me haha. But I still did about 40% water changes daily for 5 days on my 33 until I stopped on the 8th day and did another 40% water change as per the instructions. It also didn't turn my silicon green which I guess is a problem with some meds.

But at this point it's up to you, you can start with salt and if you feel it's not working you can switch to meds. Just don't use both at the same time and always remember to condition your water :) Hope this helps a bit too
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