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Old 05-19-2013, 09:52 PM   #1 
nmmuller
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Unhappy PLEASE help my betta

Hi,
I'm new to this site but I was wondering if anyone could help me with my betta, barnabus. He seems to be in good health (swims around and eats like crazy) but he just gained this huge white patch over his eye and mouth area. Assuming that it was a fungal infection, I treated his 1 gallon tank with "bettafix." The condition of the spot hasn't changed and I was wondering if he's even sick at all!!

Thanks in advance!!

http://www.bettafish.com/album.php?a...ictureid=54554
http://www.bettafish.com/album.php?a...ictureid=54546
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:54 PM   #2 
dragonx47
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People generally don't recommend BettaFix because it is said to contain some sort of oil that can coat the labyrinth organ and cause a betta to drown.
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:59 PM   #3 
nmmuller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonx47 View Post
People generally don't recommend BettaFix because it is said to contain some sort of oil that can coat the labyrinth organ and cause a betta to drown.
is there anything else i can do?
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Old 05-19-2013, 11:58 PM   #4 
Backlash
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Looking at your pics, it looks like a mild fungal infection to me, that could have resulted from him bumping himself and damaging some scales..

Personally I would start (if you dont already) doing daily 100% water changes, and maybe lower his water temp slightly to 76*F, and keep a very close eye on him for a few days.. If at any time the fungus appears to be spreading or getting worse, or if you notice any changes in him eating or him clamping his fins, then start treatment with Aquarium salt.. (You could start to treat him with AQ salt now, the choice is yours).. Adding API Slime Coat (as per the directions on the bottle) to his water may help him as well.. I would also consider buying one of the anti-fungal meds listed in the stickies below just in case you need it..

Taken from the stickies in the Emergencies thread..

True Fungal Infections
•Symptoms: White cottony like patches on its body or head, Lethargic, Not eating, Clamped Fins, Pale Colors
•Treatment: Conservative: Lower temperature below 76* F and treat with Aq.Salt at 1 tsp/gal. Increase water changes to 100% daily. Replace accurate amount of salt following water changes. Never continue salt treatments for more than 10 days. Medication: If Conservative treatment is ineffective after 10 days or you see the fungus spread rapidly during the course of conservative treatment, move to medication. Add “Fungus Eliminator” by Jungle, API Erythromycin, API Fungus Cure, API Triple Sulfa, OR Mardel’s Maracyn II. Change water every day and add a new dose of the same medication. Continue until all fungus has disappeared.

These are two others that you should read and be aware of..

Columnaris
•Symptoms: White spots on mouth, edges of scales and fins, Cottony Growth that eats away at the mouth, Fins rapidly disingrate, starting at the edges
Gray areas around head and gills, As the disease progresses the gray lesions may change in color to yellow/brown/red, Lesions often occur in front of the dorsal causing a “saddleback” appearance, Lethargic, Loss of appetite, Clamped, Gasping for air
•Treatment: There are 2 versions of Columnaris: chronic and acute. Chronic Columnaris can take days to progress while acute can kill within a day. It is contagious so isolate sick fish. If more than one fish shows symptoms then treat the entire tank. Perform daily 100% water change in small tanks or water change in larger tanks. Make sure to clean the gravel. Treat with Aq.Salt: add 1 tsp/gal Aquarium Salt 3 times, 12 hours apart so that you end up with 3 times the normal concentration. Do NOT raise the temperature as it thrives in temps over 85*F, however, lowering the temperature does not seem to help fight it. Combine salt treatment with Mardel’s Coppersafe, Maracyn I & II, API Erythromycin, OR API Triple Sulfa, combined with Jungle’s Fungus Eliminator (if possible).

Hole in the Head Disease
•Symptoms: lesions (holes) will appear around the head area, Lethargy, Loss of appetite
•Treatment: HITH can be treated conservatively with Aquarium salt. Add 1 tsp/gal Aquarium Salt 3 times, 12 hours apart so that you end up with 3 times the normal concentration and remember not to continue this for more than 10 days. Keep the temperature between 80-82*F and perform daily 100% water changes. If conservative treatment fails then use API General Cure OR Jungle’s Parasite Clear fizz tablets.

Last edited by Backlash; 05-20-2013 at 12:02 AM.
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Old 05-20-2013, 07:24 AM   #5 
lilnaugrim
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Betta's actually can't get Hole in the Head Disease.

But yes, any of the "Fix" medications can be potentially bad for our Betta's because they contain Tea Tree Oil which will coat the labyrinth organ, as dragon said. The Labyrinth organ is what allows the Betta to breathe fresh air at the top of his tank.

To the infection, it actually looks like a normal Body Slime infection. What is happening is your fish has gotten a bacteria infection and it's iritated the slime coat so the slime coat tries to build up to fight off the infection, which results in a patch of slimy looking areas that are generally raised, like you see on your Betta's head.

The Treatment:
  • Use 1 dissolved teaspoon of Aquarium salt (you can mix it up in a cup before hand or take an empty gallon jug of water, fill it with your tap water, use conditioner and mix the salt in. Then shake up until you no longer see crystals)
  • Every day do a 100% change. So scoop your boy out with a cup with some of his water so he will still be in water. Empty his 1 gallon tank, and replace water with similar temperature water and the 1 teaspoon of salt.
  • Do this for a week.
  • Note: Do not use Aquarium salt all the time, it can hurt their liver/kidney's, but it is fine to use for medication, just use no more than for 14 days.

I hope your little guy gets better and if you have any questions to this, feel free to ask them :)
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:06 AM   #6 
keepsmiling
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Good advice given. Good luck getting him well.
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:52 PM   #7 
ANHEL123
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Definitely lower the temperature gradually. If it fungus infection it will get worse with warmer temperature. I would even make 74*. And if it really fungal infection he will get lethargic pretty fast. I would also start doing 100% water changes. Or even start with 2-50% water changes today about 3 hrs a part and see if the white patches get better. And then continue with 100%. I think if it just slime coat it will get better with water changes. Slime coat can be from using extra dose of the stress coat, wounds,external parasites, fin damage.

Just like you already had good advice be prepared for the aquarium salt treatment. I like Backlash's instructions how to add up the salt up to 3tsp/gall.
Also another good medications if you can 't find Triple Sulfa API is API Furan2 or Bifuran, or like was mentioned above Jungle Fungus Clear(All three contain the same antibiotics)
Another one also if you can't find any of above is Kanaplex. And also you can use Kanaplex with Furan 2 API(Bifuran/Fungus Clear).



How often and how much you change the water for his one gall tank?

Last edited by ANHEL123; 05-20-2013 at 01:55 PM.
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:59 PM   #8 
ANHEL123
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Make sure you acclimate him when you do 100% water changes.

A few ways how to do it
1. can have betta in the changing cup with about 15% of the water and keep adding small amount of the new water about every 5 min for about 5-6 times -this way you he will get used to the temperature:)

2. Note the temperature of the water.

Using a plastic cup, scoop him, along with some of his water, into the cup.
Clean out the tank. Refill with water at the SAME temp. Be sure to add the correct amount of water conditioner.
Float his cup in the tank for about 15 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
Add a SMALL amount of NEW water to the cup. (Several tablespoons, or about 1.5 ounces.)
Let his cup float for about 10 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
If the cup starts to fill too much, remove a SMALL amount of water from the cup. Discard it.
Repeat steps 5-7, until about an hour has passed. (If he sits longer because you're studying, that's OK.)
Gently release him into the tank.

3. To do a water change, use a little cup like a plastic solo cup - this cup must be only for him and have never been used with soap or other chems. Scoop him up in this cup (keep him in the cup about 1/4 full of water - it doesn't need to be much because he won't be in it for long) and leave him in the cup while you change his water. To do the 50% use a turkey baster - dedicated only to him that has never seen soap or chems - and drag it through the gravel and try to suck as much of the poop out as possible, in addition to 50% of the water. Use a thermometer under the running tap to get it to be the same temp as the water that is normally in his tank. When the thermometer says the flowing tap is the right temp, fill back up his tank. At this point, add the conditioner (dose for how much water you change - if you change half the water you add half gallon worth of conditioner, If you do a 100% water change dose for the full gallon change). Float his plastic cup with him in it in the new water. Slowly add a couple tablespoons of the new water into his cup every 10 minutes for at least an hour. Finally, dump him in gently but try to get as little of the old cup water back into the tank as possible. When you do the weekly 100% you will do mostly the same thing except empty his tank fully and rinse everything in it very well under warm water but never use soaps or chemicals. Once it's fully cleaned/rinsed you can refill it and repeat the cup/acclimate phase.

4. When I change the water I put him in the cup I got him in then I take everything out of the tank, rinse everything with warm tap water. Then I put everything back in the tank, fill it with dechlorinated new water, and then turn the heater on. When the tank water is the same as the cup water , then take the dirty cup water out and a little at a time and put clean tank water in the cup. After that I put the cup in the tank and he swims out.
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