In a 10 gallon??? I would just up the rasboras numbers to 7-8 and leave be. You won't be able to fit anything else. Even the smallest Pleco needs 20 gallons and up with driftwood of course. Cory's are usually too active for 10 gallons (although you see them in there all the time) you MIGHT be able to get away with a trio. And DG's will fight if you get a pair and there are practically no females, actually most females are given hormones to change them to males because males sell. So I think that's out unless you want to get ONE DG, then that's fine.
I just wanna say, the symptoms you are describing are similar to what my fish is going through. Her behavior looks sounds exactly like what yours is going throguh. I treated with Api general cure for velvet (although I don't feel it could be velvet because she doesn't live with anyone!!!) and it has only seemed to have gotten way worse.
She is on her last fins and I feel stupid that I didn't try something for internal infections first. I have some melafix and pimafix on the way, but I don't think they will make it in time
Oh... I see that he died. I'm sorry to hear that. :( Mine seems to have been suffering for FOUR MONTHS with something similar. She is an amazingly hardy fish, but I feel so awful for not having done something sooner about it. She is on her last fins though....she won't eat now.
Last edited by 4everaspirit; 06-19-2013 at 02:26 PM.
4ever, sorry about your fish. There are some great advisors here.
Lilnaug, sorry I was vague in my post. I would have either liked to have considered the smaller pleco (not a big enough tank) OR Cories (but they are recommended minimum three or four, and I'd just wish for 1 or 2...nope. ). A dwarf gourami could be a possibility. I'd like maybe one or two larger than rasboras fish and one bottom dweller. But it's just a matter of plugging in the variables in aquaadvisor and seeing what fits. I'm not interested in overstocking. Truthfully, I'd really just like to skip all that and get another betta, but that may not be the best call.
You know that Rasboras can handle your water source. There's an argument to be made for just stocking the tank with Rasboras. It's much simpler for you, which is nothing to sneeze at, and simpler usually = cheaper.
There's also the option of pre-treating your water to even out those parameters a bit. That could take some experimentation. I'll tell you what I do. There are other experienced aquarists on here that may have a different approach. Maybe they'll see this and chime in.
First, some background on my set-up. I have a 3.5 gallon Spec III with one betta and 2 amano shrimp and pretty heavy planting. I use spring water because the well water treatment system doesn't work right and leaves behind a lot of salt and god knows what else. I decided to use a chemical adsorbant called Boyd's Chemipure (regular, I didn't bother with the Elite version) in the filter to absorb ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, dissolved organics and to stabilize pH because I'm low-functioning disabled and can't do the amount of water changes a small tank would normally require. Using the chemical adsorbant media allows me to safely make just a 30% change and a 66% change every week. I modified the stock filter to accomodate Chemipure (and more biological media, in this case Matrix). You may not need to modify yours...the one in the SpecIII needed it. After I added Chemipure, I noticed that the pH of the water changed. The pH of the spring water I use is between 7.4 and 7.6. Yet it became around 7.0 and 7.2 (I have a really hard time telling the colors apart on the API Master Test Kit, particularly the ones around neutral) after Chemipure. The Chemipure website says it's suppose to stabilize pH at whatever the value was when the Chemipure was added, but that clearly didn't happen. It does hold steady around 7.0-7.2. So I now treat the spring water before adding it. I got a little submersible filter and replaced the foam with some Chemipure in a trouser sock (Chemipure has an EXTREMELY fine resin in it that most filter bags won't hold in, and the submersible filter is very small, so I couldn't the whole bag of Chemipure in). The Chemipure website cautions not to open the bag and take out the Chemipure because it has exact ratios needed in the bag and separate it out, but I've so far found that it works fine. I suppose it IS possible that splitting it up is the reason the pH changes, but it seems to change the same amount in the fishtank and in the holding tank, so I don't know. I suspect that the Chemipure affected water hardness. I'll have to test that. I put the water in a holding tank and run the filter with the Chemipure in it overnight. And I have a heater in the holding tank to get the water to the same temp as the tank water.
If you do this experiment, and find that Chemipure makes the parameters of your new water different than your tank water (and if you want to stick with this method), then it will be very important in the beginning to do a series of incremental water changes over a period of days to slowly replace the fishtank water with the treated water so as not to shock the fish. And you will always have to treat new water this way before water changes.
I would be inclined to also put Chemipure in the fishtank filter if you use this method, BUT I would do this experiment on your tap water first before putting Chemipure in your fishtank filter, just to see what happens. See how fast the water parameters change. See IF they change at all. I'd be worried if you put a bag of Chemipure in your fishtank and it changed water parameters too fast, your fish might get shocked. Best to see what (if anything) it does on your source water first.
There are other adsorbent media out there besides Chemipure. The other popular ones are Seachem Purichem and The Original Polyfilter (beware knock-offs). Chemipure and these other 2 will also remove heavy metals, flouride and other nasties that Prime doesn't. Of course, carbon does a decent job of that, too. Chemipure contains carbon, the other two don't, but all three do a good job of removing undesirables. There are pros and cons for all of them. One thing I like about Polyfilter is that it changes color to indicate a few specific contaminants. I have just a few little scraps in my filter to suck up extra dissolved organics and keep the water that much cleaner. Note that I still do water changes twice a week, because there's simply no substitute for water changes.
This method of pre-filtering is much more complicated than simply sticking with fish that can handle your water source. There's a lot to be said for simplicity. It's cheaper and less nerve-wracking. Especially for a beginner aquarist. One advantage to trying it is that we all learn by doing complicated stuff, but I only recommend it if you feel comfortable and are able to study and compare pH and other water parameters between the fishtank and treated water frequently in the beginning and periodically after to get a solid understanding of how the adsorbant media affect water quality, and to monitor when the media wears out.
I also recommend researching the adsorbant media I mentioned for pros and cons and other things I can't remember but know need to be considered. :) Do some homework, see how you feel about it.
Correction: I wrote Seachem Purichem, but it's called Purigen, not Purichem.
My method is just one example, and is suited to my particular filtration equipment situation. You may find a different and equally valid solution during your research. :)
I just wanted to update here that Chemipure is not holding my pH steady like it's supposed to. pH is declining. There are three reasons I can think of why it's not holding pH steady. 1) the manufacturer cautions against opening the mesh bag and splitting up the Chemipure into smaller batches, yet I did that. I'm skeptical about their claim of it being "useless" if you do this, but what do I know. Maybe it"s true. 2) the small amount I was using simply got used up. 3) I used Stress Coat, which may have added to the chemical filtration burden and exhausted it faster. I've removed the Chemipure and replaced it with Polyfilter. If the pH doesn't stabilize after that, I'll know it wasn't the Chemipure. I'm not recommending against Chemipure for pre-treating water, since I don't know for sure if the problem is with Chemipure or what I did with it, I just thought it might be helpful to know that I'm having some trouble with it for some unknown reason.