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Old 06-19-2013, 02:18 PM   #11 
ANHEL123
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It depends what you want to do.

If you NOT going to cycle your tank after you done with treatment ,then i would just do 100%. And you can take the filter out and do regular water changes after you done with treatment. Not sure why you need light in the tank.Don't keep light 24/7 though, it will stress him out. Is your room too dark? Rinse the filter every about 2 days while you treating him in the tank water.

If you going to cycle your tank and keep the filter in then do 50% daily.

I hope he will get better. Still not sure if he is biting his tail though. If you ever see ''u'' shape bites it can be tail biting. No discoloration, often has u shaped chanks missing would be tail biting.
When you finish with any treatment and hopefully he will get better make sure you always rinse/swish the filter media. Sometimes filter cartridges can gather a lot of gunk on them and that could cause ammonia problems. The link that i gave you and post #22 has the link on water changes for cycled and uncycled tanks. It from Oldfishlady so i am recommending to follow her instructions:)
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Old 06-19-2013, 02:35 PM   #12 
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I don't have the light 24/7 its 10 hours a day I've never seen u spots it started to separate from the edges I guess ill go for 100 then and at the end just add quick start again or I have another tank in cycling process can I put him in that one and co tinue with the stress coat or he should be in the same tank ?
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:35 PM   #13 
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Ok if you will decide to do 100% don't forget to start with 50% first two days and then day 3 you can do full water changes . Of course when you do 50% redose with salt each time when you do a change. So 50 for 5 gall - you will need to add about 7.5 tsp. Sorry i think i already wrote it before, sorry if i repeat.
When you finish the treatment you really can put him in the tank that you trying to cycle for him . Or you can try to cycle the one that he already in. He doesn't have to be in the same tank. Of course acclimate to the new tank.

Also if you need i can post a few links for you that are will give you very good tips on fish in and fishless cycle.
Please keep us updated.
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:36 PM   #14 
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Thanks and I'm sorry if I'm asking too much This is my second betta and I've never have a problem like this I wouldn't like him to die and all the information is good and I've noticed today that his dorsal fin has started to rot too so I hope this helps and another question is there any way to cycle with the fish in the tank cause I have natural plants in the other tank and I'm afraid that medications or the stress coat mess with the plants
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Old 06-20-2013, 12:52 AM   #15 
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yes plants not tolerant to the aquarium salt.
Yes there is way to cycle with fish in the tank. None of my tanks are cycled so i really can't give good advice how to cycle ,but this is very good link for fishin cycle. First link about fishin cycle and second link about water changes in the established tank.

http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=107771
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=115758

His dorsal fins started to rot, and it was fine a few day ago. It kind of fast. But you didn't treat him before so lets see if salt will help. I would think it need a few days to start working. If his fins will get worse or if his behavior will change i would get med's. If it will stay the same for the next 2-4 days i would continue 3tsp/gall salt .
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Old 06-20-2013, 05:41 PM   #16 
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Ok so it's official rlfin rot at the dorsal fin today I did a 50% water chamge this is the second day tomorrow i'll do a 100 I still using the filter but i'll remove it tomorrow I'm going to buy a light cause the light is with the filter I'm afraid that he would jump since he would see all that space up there I hope he doesn't try it i'll keep on posting thanks for your help
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:41 PM   #17 
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Just leave the space between the top of the tank and water level. I know, me too, i always afraid that my bettas will jump out. I had that accident once. Now i just leave the space to make sure even if any of them will try to jump ,it too much space so they will not be able to jump out. I have one betta that always jumps for food.
Buy medications so you have it on hands and you can return if you don't use them.
Also I want to understand why he getting fin rot to begin with. You doing a lot of water changes and adding stress coat which is good and it's not helping.
Did you ever check your water? I am wondering if you have may be ammonia in the water ? You did not get him from Thailand or somewhere else right? How long you have him?
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:48 PM   #18 
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I took my water to test at a local petstore and they just said it's good never knew about number the rot at the dorsal I kind of noticed before adiing the three spoons per gallon so maybe it will stop is no that much just the edge and I got him from a friend she breed her betas some times so it is local he has been with me for about s month now
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Old 06-21-2013, 05:40 PM   #19 
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At least we rule out the water problem. I hope that salt would help. I really don't like to medicate them. Please keep us updated. I am glad she is acting healthy .
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:15 PM   #20 
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Well i just added him I did the 100% water change and take the filter out I got him a light so he won't be in the dark all this time today I didn't see as many black spots as yesterday but some still there he stills normal swimming and eating he's actually posing for the photo lol so I hope this would be the solution I'm afraid of medication too never now what can be affected from them
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