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Old 07-29-2013, 11:50 AM   #11 
NeptunesMom
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I was recommending the General Cure for Popeye. If the treatment of ES alone didn't work, then you would need to combine it with General Cure, Tetracycline or Triple Sulfa. The only one it appears that is available in that area is General Cure.

How do you know it's velvet? Maybe that was in the PM...

Also, I've always heard the temperature to treat velvet at was between 85-86. I've never treated it personally, but even in a quick search I couldn't find any recommendations above 86.
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:31 PM   #12 
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Usually if it velvet or ich fish will look like sprinkled with salt or has covered with a fine gold or rust mist. I think that he looks like it on the picture. And yes it was one of the symptoms that Lena mentioned it in her pm to me.

Also While 85 may work, it is awful close to not working , and since he has it for a few days i think we should use more aggressive treatment and make the temp 88*. Also check this out

Post #9 and whole thread in general , we can learn a lot from that

http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=216178

Also Lena was really treating him with Epsom salt for one day, so i don't think we can see results this fast. That is why i recommended to try Epsom again and see if he will get better. I don't like to stress out the fish , he already stressed enough. So i was thinking to try epsom at least for a few days and see if it helps.

So what do you think now? Should we use medications right away now or wait and see if Epsom will help? I would really use Epsom first. Or i would see how he doing with temp rose and go from that
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:38 PM   #13 
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See option #4 for the acclimation with the heater
1. can have betta in the changing cup with about 15% of the water and keep adding small amount of the new water about every 5 min for about 5-6 times -this way you he will get used to the temperature:)

2. Note the temperature of the water.

Using a plastic cup, scoop him, along with some of his water, into the cup.
Clean out the tank. Refill with water at the SAME temp. Be sure to add the correct amount of water conditioner.
Float his cup in the tank for about 15 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
Add a SMALL amount of NEW water to the cup. (Several tablespoons, or about 1.5 ounces.)
Let his cup float for about 10 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
If the cup starts to fill too much, remove a SMALL amount of water from the cup. Discard it.
Repeat steps 5-7, until about an hour has passed. (If he sits longer because you're studying, that's OK.)
Gently release him into the tank.

3. To do a water change, use a little cup like a plastic solo cup - this cup must be only for him and have never been used with soap or other chems. Scoop him up in this cup (keep him in the cup about 1/4 full of water - it doesn't need to be much because he won't be in it for long) and leave him in the cup while you change his water. To do the 50% use a turkey baster - dedicated only to him that has never seen soap or chems - and drag it through the gravel and try to suck as much of the poop out as possible, in addition to 50% of the water. Use a thermometer under the running tap to get it to be the same temp as the water that is normally in his tank. When the thermometer says the flowing tap is the right temp, fill back up his tank. At this point, add the conditioner (dose for how much water you change - if you change half the water you add half gallon worth of conditioner, If you do a 100% water change dose for the full gallon change). Float his plastic cup with him in it in the new water. Slowly add a couple tablespoons of the new water into his cup every 10 minutes for at least an hour. Finally, dump him in gently but try to get as little of the old cup water back into the tank as possible. When you do the weekly 100% you will do mostly the same thing except empty his tank fully and rinse everything in it very well under warm water but never use soaps or chemicals. Once it's fully cleaned/rinsed you can refill it and repeat the cup/acclimate phase.

4. When I change the water I put him in the cup I got him in then I take everything out of the tank, rinse everything with warm tap water. Then I put everything back in the tank, fill it with dechlorinated new water, and then turn the heater on. When the tank water is the same as the cup water , then take the dirty cup water out and a little at a time and put clean tank water in the cup. After that I put the cup in the tank and he swims out.

Also everything you using for the Blueno (a net or a cup, or anything else just wash it with hot water and let it sit and dry out until next use. It will kill any parasites . No host -it will die.

Last edited by BETTACHKALOVE; 07-29-2013 at 12:45 PM.
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:50 PM   #14 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BETTACHKALOVE View Post
Also Lena was really treating him with Epsom salt for one day, so i don't think we can see results this fast. That is why i recommended to try Epsom again and see if he will get better. I don't like to stress out the fish , he already stressed enough. So i was thinking to try epsom at least for a few days and see if it helps.

So what do you think now? Should we use medications right away now or wait and see if Epsom will help? I would really use Epsom first. Or i would see how he doing with temp rose and go from that
I guess I didn't realize it was only one day of treatment. If it was only a day then of course salt would still be the appropriate treatment.

I don't see any sings of Ich in the image posted. I can see where you may be assuming velvet, but it would only be confirmed through testing. Which I'm assuming happened and it was confirmed through your PM's back and forth. Correct? So we know we are dealing with velvet

I guess, for me, I would stick with a temp in the 86 range. But, then again I'm paranoid about heat related stress.
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Old 07-29-2013, 02:06 PM   #15 
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When i saw the picture i thought it a velvet. But i was hoping someone will still come along to confirm it. Then i read Lena's message to me ,that he looks like he covered with salt . Also Lena wrote in her mess to me that he acts weird for example jumping from one wall to another like something scares him.
So from all of that i decided it velvet .

So are you agree with me?
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Old 07-29-2013, 02:16 PM   #16 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BETTACHKALOVE View Post
When i saw the picture i thought it a velvet. But i was hoping someone will still come along to confirm it. Then i read Lena's message to me ,that he looks like he covered with salt . Also Lena wrote in her mess to me that he acts weird for example jumping from one wall to another like something scares him.
So from all of that i decided it velvet .

So are you agree with me?
I don't know for sure... Lena, can you do the flashlight test and report the results on here? If he looks to be "salted" that would be a sign of Ick.
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Old 07-29-2013, 02:40 PM   #17 
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Thank you so much for both of you for trying so save Blueno!
Here is couple more photos
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you see his body looks like covered with very thin layer of mold a little bit like in tiger pattern
now it os more green on face, reminds me rust on cooper cables
he is loosing his colour more and more


i know, i should have not fed him
but I gave him some pellets as afraid will stop eating soon
he eat them ok

Last edited by Lena N; 07-29-2013 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 07-29-2013, 04:19 PM   #18 
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No you should not stop feeding him actually. He needs to be strong to fight whatever he has. Also if you can , when you go to the pet store buy frozen blood worms or frozen daphnia. I really recommending it for your bettas. Let us know when you get, so we can tell you how to feed with it. But keep it in the freezer not in the fridge. It has more protein in it then all other food ,and good for the immune system.

Also i want to make sure he don' t have white fuzzy cottony like patches on his body. Like those pictures i am going to post for you a few links check and make sure he don't have it

Post #1
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=206114

http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=163137&page=2

Last edited by BETTACHKALOVE; 07-29-2013 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 07-29-2013, 04:38 PM   #19 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BETTACHKALOVE View Post
No you should not stop feeding him actually. He needs to be strong to fight whatever he has. Also if you can , when you go to the pet store buy frozen blood worms or frozen daphnia. I really recommending it for your bettas. Let us know when you get, so we can tell you how to feed with it. But keep it in the freezer not in the fridge. It has more protein in it then all other food ,and good for the immune system.

Also i want to make sure he don' t have white fuzzy cottony like patches on his body. Like those pictures i am going to post for you a few links check and make sure he don't have it

Post #1
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=206114

http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=163137&page=2
Dear BETTACHKALOVE,
I think he looks very similar to first picture espassially his had started to turn green just during 2 last hours.
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Old 07-29-2013, 04:50 PM   #20 
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Ok it very important question. Does he has white fuzzy, cottony patches on his body?
Or he has slimy,clear like a mucus patches?
Is he acting the same after you raise the temperature or worse?
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