Hi all. Have read the recommended posts and some in this grouping re: treatment for ich. The sticky doesn't actually list a specific recommended medication. My male betta, Indigo, started with fin rot. I bought some tetracycline which I will add today. However, this morning, I noticed he also now has a clear, small, white dot(?Ich) on his swimming fin(sorry I forget the name). My questions are: Is there 1 recommended medication you've had success with in treating both? If not, I have tetracycline for the fin rot, but want to ask about a compatible med. for the ich(which I guess is more pressing). His 1 stress, which I hope to get a new tank this week, is fluctuating water temp from 76 during day(till about 11:00 pm), then drops to about 70 degrees by 7:00 a.m. The tank is a 1.5 gallon, unfiltered(I do have one but didn't add it to give him more room to swim ), tank with rocks and fairly large aponogetum plant. Water changed 1x/week at about 80% with bottom suctioned and sides wiped down. I leave the rocks and plant in to help try to cycle the tank. The nitrATES(which started at 0), are now at 5(have been for about 6-7 weeks), they are breaking down the Ammonia and NitrITES so they are always at 0. Water is conditioned with PRIME prior to adding. To assist with good digestion, have been feeding him 1x/week thawed Daphnia. for last 3 weeks. I read on Bettatalk that Ich(Ick), can come from live frozen food....Has anyone had this happen? If that's the case, then how do I alter his diet to ensure no constipation issues, which seems they are prone to. Doesn't like the freezedried shrimp and wont' touch the freezedried bloodworms. Given 4-5 very small betta pellets 1x/day. Swims around great and as I've read on another website, I think he's used to(from Walmart), the mid 70 temps and thus, he has never been lethargic. He's heated by the large undercabinet light in our kitchen as well as the room temp. I do keep the small tank light on at night, tilted to side to allow some darkness on 1 side, but do this to keep the heat from falling below 70. I have also read the cycles of Ich and that it will die faster if I heat up the tank. For right now, this isn't an option, so, wondered what medicines you have had some success with. Read on-line that there was some ? problems with Melafix(if doesn't treat the type of bacteria, can actually provide FOOD for the bacteria and cause it to worsen!! Don't want this to happen!
Thanks for your input.
Never heard about ich dying faster if you increase the temp but it would make sense. The thing is that it also makes them reproduce fasteer. Increasing the temperature is recommended because it speeds up the general life cycle of the parasite, causing it to drop off the fish and into the water, where it is most vulnerable to medications, to reproduce. So by just cranking the heat (unless you make it REALLY hot) all you are doing is speedign up their life cycle. But if you crank the heat when medicating, the ich will die off faster. I recommend a good copper-based medication such as Coppersafe, although something like Life Bearer will also give god results.
Yep, that's what I read re; why you can kill the disease off faster if you heat up the temp: while in the fish/host, they are protected, nomatter what med you put in. It's when they fall off and start to reproduce and then hatch and swim around for I guess 3 days, looking for a host, that the med in the water kills them. Increasing the temp, increases their cycle and causes them to drop off the fish faster.
Re: the Coppersafe and Lifebearer....are these regularly kept at fish stores? I live in Richmond Va. Have you used anything like the Melafix?
Melafix is a big-a$$ gimmick. They ONLY active ingredient is Tea-Tree oil, which is an antiseptic, like hydrogen peroxide or rubbing alcohol. It can only kill bacteria external to the fish, wheras an antibiotic will kill bacteria inside the fish's system. And it most definitely does nothing to non-bacterial organisms ie parasites, viruses, inverts, etc.
Coppersafe is one of the most widely available medications with Life-Bearer being relatively easy to find as well. Where neither can be found any copper-based medication will do.
Coppersafe, for whatever reason, wasn't available in our area. At a store called Fin and Feather, was given something called Quick Cure. The 2 ingredients are Formalin, Malachite Green. I think in one of the websites that is on a sticky(maybe at the top of this thread/section), I remember reading Malachite Green as being something that was recommended. My concern is, it says to use 1 drop/gallon of water and do this for 3 days. Says in bold: " Maximum dosage: 3 daily treatments." Says "if further treatment is needed, do 25% water change before doing another treatment cycle." I thought from reading, and also what you reiterated, that these things take sometimes 5 days to mature and then drop off the host(betta). Then, when they hatch, THEN they are susceptible to the medication. If this is only for 3 days, what am I missing re: how this will get rid of it? I'm pretty sure I read that when you do Ich treatment, you are supposed to do about a 14 days cycle to ensure you have killed them all off. Currently, he only has 1 small white circle on the same swimming fin that has some curling from the fin rot(he also has some of the fin rot on his back tail and some curling on some of the extended long tendrals of his bottom tail(I know I need to memorize the correct names of these). In any event, the fish guy(who did seem to have some good knowledge), said I could use the tetracylcine for the fin rot simultaneously with this Quick Cure. I did put the filter(without the carbon cartridge), in the tank today and it's been in there about 7 hours, and he seems to really have taken a liking to it. Swims all around it, even by the bottom and doesn't have any trouble getting away from it....Also seems to like where the water flows back into the tank from the top(it's a whisper filter).
Do you know of any problems that may be assoicated with doing both of these meds at the same time? I'm just worried that the fin rot is really getting worse and the water changes with Aquarium salt(1 tsp/2.5 gallons ratio), hasn't stopped it. It's 8:30pm and I'll be up until probably 11:00, but then I work all day tomorrow....wouldn't want any adverse reactions to happen to him while I was gone and could have prevented by pulling him out of the water. Any suggestions or experience with giving these meds at the same time and no problems? Thanks!
Malachite green will kill ick, but that seems like an AWFULLY short dosage cycle. You're going to want to treat for at least for a week and a half. What the bottle probably says is: For ick treat once every three days for three treatments. The actuall dosage is going to be based on how much malachite-green is actually in it. I used Wardley's "Ick Away" which is .075% malachite green and uses a teaspoon per 10 gallons of water. If yours is more potent, it'll tell you to use less, just go with what they tell you.
P.S. You'll also want to take out your plant, malachite-green can do some serious harm to it
Yes, I wondered about the plant. However, It is the only thing in the tank and it is quite substantial with spade-shaped leaves and stems at different levels: hides under some on bottom, rests on viney-stems that lead to leaves on top of water...which he makes bubble nests under or hides under them. I wondered about stress with removing this and then he would be completely exposed in this wide-open tank. Re: other stresses already: Monday around 1:30: added filter(without the carbon cartridge), at 8:00 same day, did 1st ich treatment. Tues pm: did 2nd ich treatment Wed: a.m. did 1st of what will be 4 tetracycline treatments for fin rot(which I'm really noticing now). Also has stress(had this since I got him due to no heater), of temp fluctuating from about 76 during day to 72 the last couple of nights(kept room temp up a little...in past went to about 70..by 7:00 a.m). The 5 gallon Mini-bow I ordered on Monday won't be here till Thursday afternoon, so, no steady heat till then. I just was concernced with the stresses of a filter, and 2 meds, what does removing his only area of coverage do to him? His fins are more clamped today, so, I know he's feeling some of this. Wondering if better to lose the plant vs. adding 1 more stress of complete exposure?