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Old 07-23-2010, 10:28 AM   #61 
Miss W
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CayennePepper: Thanks for the information. I have read the sticky at the top. I actually have it printed and highlighted! I guess my question needs to be more specific. When I have the proper equipment, how do I set it up properly. Do I need to clean everything first? I've tried the search option, but I guess my search is too broad. I still continue searching. Thanks!
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Old 07-23-2010, 10:51 AM   #62 
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Originally Posted by 1fish2fish View Post
A fish is a marble if it changes color at all. There is red loss which is something different but on any color fish a marble is one that gains or loses color.
What is "red loss"? Caye keeps changing colors from completely Lava to Rosewood with his head black and then back again to just Lava (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Shades_of_red). I don't suspect he is a marble since he is consistently red, since both colors are shades of red, but should I be concerned? I thought it might be stress but the changes seem too random...
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Old 07-23-2010, 11:31 AM   #63 
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Originally Posted by wallywestisthebest333 View Post

My question: How often do you change your water when your tank is cycled? I notice lots of people do things differently. I've got a 5 gallon I was hoping to do weekly or biweekly 50-75% changes. =]
With one fish a cycled 5 gallon needs about one 50% change a week. If you had lots of live plants you might be able to do a change every two weeks but I wouldn't recommend it.

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Originally Posted by chrisbdaemon View Post

Once I get things sorted out and get a pattern down does everything get easier and smoother? If I use a 2-5g tank how much would it cost on average to get a filter and setup the cycle (I'm trying to decide if I want a filter or not).
Once you get the hang of things it will get easier. If you buy a 5 gallon kit at walmart you'll pay about $35 plus another $20 for the heater (you want a good heater). To cycle you can either use your fish or get pure ammonia to cycle (look into Fishless cycling vs Fish-in cycling)

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When I first bought him I thought I would just feed him twice daily some cheap pellets and enjoy watching him swim around and enjoy having him but I'm learning its much more complicated and I'm second guessing my purchase.

Has anyone been in my situation recently that could give some advice?
It seems complicated but its really not, once you get over the initial set up its nothing more than a water change or two a week and feeding him.

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Originally Posted by jelmeraguirre View Post
Question:

i'm planning to have a sorority, and i really want to have one. is it okay to put a partition to a 10gal tank (one part is around 3 gal and other is 7 gal), and place the sorority on the larger part and one male in the smaller one? im dying to buy females and i also want to get another male. im planning to get 4 females for this sorority...
IMO the minimum space needed for a sorority is 10 full gallons. Remember that to work a sorority must be over stocked so you want these girls to have as much room to get away from each other as possible. I'd also recommend getting more than 4 females, with 4 females your likely to see a lot more aggression than you would if you had 6-10. Also make sure the tank is cycled prior to adding the fish.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CayennePepper View Post
What is "red loss"? Caye keeps changing colors from completely Lava to Rosewood with his head black and then back again to just Lava (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Shades_of_red). I don't suspect he is a marble since he is consistently red, since both colors are shades of red, but should I be concerned? I thought it might be stress but the changes seem too random...
Red loss is where a fish completely loses pigment over time. Here's a great article that talks about it (the Red Loss is towards the middle). It sounds to me that your fish is getting pale, then brightening up. Do you have a heater? Try to see if you notice any certain times or situations where is is brighter and duller.
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Old 07-23-2010, 03:00 PM   #64 
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I have a question about fin rot. It is caused by bacteria, isn't it? If that is correct, why is it recommended to increase the temp in the tank when treating for fin rot since bacteria LOVES warmth???? Shouldn't the temp go DOWN a tad???

Just call me confused - LOL!
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Old 07-23-2010, 04:01 PM   #65 
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Originally Posted by bettalover2033 View Post
i have a 1.5 gallon tank and i do water changes once every 1 1/2 week water change:). and in your case if i were you i would do at least a once every 2 1/2 week water change.
I'm sorry. =[ In the post you said it was a 1.5 gallon that you were doing weekly changes on. I had no idea it was actually 4 gallons or if it's not actually 4 gallons that it was a filtered 1.5 gallon.

If I'd known it was filtered or that it was 4 gallons I wouldn't have said you needed to clean it more often. I'm sorry to have upset you. =[ I had no intention of doing so.
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Old 07-23-2010, 04:08 PM   #66 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fish2fish View Post
With one fish a cycled 5 gallon needs about one 50% change a week. If you had lots of live plants you might be able to do a change every two weeks but I wouldn't recommend it.
Thanks! =]
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Old 07-23-2010, 04:28 PM   #67 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lion Mom View Post
I have a question about fin rot. It is caused by bacteria, isn't it? If that is correct, why is it recommended to increase the temp in the tank when treating for fin rot since bacteria LOVES warmth???? Shouldn't the temp go DOWN a tad???

Just call me confused - LOL!
Fin rot can be caused by a number of different things. In general you warm up the tank to speed up the processes of the fish and speed healing. Since fish are ectothermic a cold fish is going to heal a lot slower than a warm fish and have a harder time fighting off what ever is causing the fin rot.
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Old 07-23-2010, 05:47 PM   #68 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miss W View Post
CayennePepper: Thanks for the information. I have read the sticky at the top. I actually have it printed and highlighted! I guess my question needs to be more specific. When I have the proper equipment, how do I set it up properly. Do I need to clean everything first? I've tried the search option, but I guess my search is too broad. I still continue searching. Thanks!
Yes, it would be a good idea to rinse the tank, filter (if you end up getting one), heater, gravel, and decorations beforehand, to get rid of dust particles.

If you're getting a filter and will be doing the fishless cycle, then you will need to have the filter running in the tank without the fish for about a month.

If you opt to add the fish right away, then you will need to acclimate him to the water by floating his cup in the tank while gradually replacing the water in the cup with the water from the tank (about every 15 minutes). After that, all he needs is a heater set to about 78 F, 3-4 pre-soaked pellets per day, and clean water (i.e. frequent 100% water changes for an uncycled tank). You don't need to feed him at all over the weekends.

If your principal won't allow the filter to be plugged in overnight and you would rather not have to do frequent 100% water changes, then you may want to consider setting up an "el natural" style planted tank, using potted soil as a substrate and filling half of the tank with low-maintenance plants such as java ferns, Amazon Swords, Anubias, and hornwort. Here's a step-by-step guide for a planted tank that someone did for her office:

http://thegab.org/Plants/step-by-ste...nted-tank.html

^ I think this would be more educational and the fish would have more fun with real plants.

I don't see a way around not having a heater plugged in overnight though. Insulating the tank overnight/weekends with a styrofoam box, newspapers and a heat pack might be an option but the heat packs would end up being costly.

By the way, here is a link for the cheapest water testing kit:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Freshwater...c-Pets/3635493

Oh, and one last thing - I think you should advise the cleaning staff to not touch the aquarium. Not to change the water, feed the fish, and especially not to clean the aquarium with Windex.

Good luck to you! Your students are lucky... I once had a fun and effective teacher who let us keep tadpoles in the classroom and it was a great experience for a kid who wasn't allowed any pets at home.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wallywestisthebest333 View Post
I'm sorry. =[ In the post you said it was a 1.5 gallon that you were doing weekly changes on. I had no idea it was actually 4 gallons or if it's not actually 4 gallons that it was a filtered 1.5 gallon.

If I'd known it was filtered or that it was 4 gallons I wouldn't have said you needed to clean it more often. I'm sorry to have upset you. =[ I had no intention of doing so.
You are way too nice! Every single one of her posts on this thread confused the heck out of me. I had no idea her initial post was sarcastic either.
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Old 07-23-2010, 08:58 PM   #69 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fish2fish View Post
Red loss is where a fish completely loses pigment over time. Here's a great article that talks about it (the Red Loss is towards the middle). It sounds to me that your fish is getting pale, then brightening up. Do you have a heater? Try to see if you notice any certain times or situations where is is brighter and duller.
Thanks for the suggestion, but I live in Florida and have not had the heater plugged in since the water is usually between 82 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit. I know you guys are gonna say 86 is too hot, but honestly he seems fine those few times the water does get that hot and its usually really between 82 and 84 and rarely gets to 86. Anyways the only time that his change is consistent is at night. At night he gets much darker and starts flaring like crazy, at what I don't know (maybe he sees his reflection in the glass or is super excited because I'm awake and next to him).
Is there any reason why Bettas would pale and then brighten up?
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Old 07-23-2010, 09:11 PM   #70 
Campbell
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Quick question: Anyone know if Petsmart charges for water testing?
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