Thinking of getting a betta!

[Swimmer123]

I'm think of getting a betta and I've never had any bettas. I've already done a lot of research but I still don't get the water and some other things so please just tell me anything I need to know!!!

[betta99]

a lot of people are gonna post on this, so you'll get lots of help. as for the water requirements, here's a link: http://www.bettatalk.com/water.htm
also, whatever the people at the petstore say, get a tank that's five gallons or bigger. they can thrive in something smaller, but they prefer to have more space

[JKfish]

Hi, welcome to the forum and the epic world/obsession with bettas. :D

The water thing (cycling) is really easy. I'm going to make a long post basically touching on all the suggested requirements, so if I repeat anything you already know, forgive me :)

Feeding: 2-3 betta pellets twice daily, 6 times a week (7th day is a fasting day). The pellets must have some sort of meat (fish meal, shrimp meal, etc) as the first ingredient. Before feeding, soak them all the way through.

Tank: Minimum of 2 gallons, must have a heater that keeps your tank at a constant temp between 76-80 degrees fahrenheit, and have proper water changes. Water changes vary depending on size and if your tank is cycled or not. (I'll get to that in a moment).

Compatability: Females are just as agressive as males, keep all bettas seperate (unless in a sorority-which is a risk). No tank mates are advised for anything less than 5 gallons. Shrimp and snails good for 5 and up. 10 gallons and up are alright (depending on the temperment of your betta) are alright for one small school of fish. Tank mates are at risk of getting hurt by your betta and or eaten.

Cycling: Basically cycling is putting some sort of ammonia into your tank. The ammoina gets converted to nitrItes, which are then converted to nitrAtes. Of the three, nitrAtes are the least harmful to your betta and can be tolerated in higher quantities - thus the reason you can get away with less frequent water changes. Cycling fishless is advised, and can take about a month if the tank is not seeded (Seeding a tank is taking something that has been in a cycled tank and has the benificial bacteria on it, and sticking it in your tank- basically expanding on an already living colony of good bacteria).

When cycling fishlessly, you can use fish food (which decays and excretes ammonia), pure ammonia, or raw shrimp (which decays and excretes ammonia). Shrimp and fish food are easy, but messy. Shrimp is probably the easiest, you just toss in a shrimp (in a mesh bag or pantyhose) and let the tank cycle. With fish food and pure ammonia, you pour in the required ammount once an day every day.

After a while, you will see your tank parameters will change, and you'll find that ammonia rises, then falls. NitrIte rises then falls. NitrAte rises. When it rises past 5ppm, you do a huge (50-70%) water change, and your tank is cycled.

While cycling, it is necessary that you have a filter running 24/7. The filter airates the water and keeps the bacteria that make the conversions alive. Not to mention that the benificial bacteria live in your filter... Also, a good liquid testing kit is advised. The API Master Test Kit is the best, which you can get from Walmart for 20 or so dollars (half of what the petstores sell them for).

Anyways, for cycling, here is an awesome link (complete with pictures :D ) http://www.fishlore.com/NitrogenCycle.htm

(cycling in a nutshell: 1) put ammonia source in. 2) watch and wait. 3) watch ammonia rise and fall 4) watch NitrItes rise and fall. 5) Watch nitrAtes rise 6) water change 7) Done!!)


**** it isn't advised to use PH up or PH down, just FYI

[naturegirl243]

Welcome! I really hope you decied to get a betta they are great. Do this its what I would do.

Originally Posted by JKfish

Hi, welcome to the forum and the epic world/obsession with bettas. :D

The water thing (cycling) is really easy. I'm going to make a long post basically touching on all the suggested requirements, so if I repeat anything you already know, forgive me :)

Feeding: 2-3 betta pellets twice daily, 6 times a week (7th day is a fasting day). The pellets must have some sort of meat (fish meal, shrimp meal, etc) as the first ingredient. Before feeding, soak them all the way through.

Tank: Minimum of 2 gallons, must have a heater that keeps your tank at a constant temp between 76-80 degrees fahrenheit, and have proper water changes. Water changes vary depending on size and if your tank is cycled or not. (I'll get to that in a moment).

Compatability: Females are just as agressive as males, keep all bettas seperate (unless in a sorority-which is a risk). No tank mates are advised for anything less than 5 gallons. Shrimp and snails good for 5 and up. 10 gallons and up are alright (depending on the temperment of your betta) are alright for one small school of fish. Tank mates are at risk of getting hurt by your betta and or eaten.

Cycling: Basically cycling is putting some sort of ammonia into your tank. The ammoina gets converted to nitrItes, which are then converted to nitrAtes. Of the three, nitrAtes are the least harmful to your betta and can be tolerated in higher quantities - thus the reason you can get away with less frequent water changes. Cycling fishless is advised, and can take about a month if the tank is not seeded (Seeding a tank is taking something that has been in a cycled tank and has the benificial bacteria on it, and sticking it in your tank- basically expanding on an already living colony of good bacteria).

When cycling fishlessly, you can use fish food (which decays and excretes ammonia), pure ammonia, or raw shrimp (which decays and excretes ammonia). Shrimp and fish food are easy, but messy. Shrimp is probably the easiest, you just toss in a shrimp (in a mesh bag or pantyhose) and let the tank cycle. With fish food and pure ammonia, you pour in the required ammount once an day every day.

After a while, you will see your tank parameters will change, and you'll find that ammonia rises, then falls. NitrIte rises then falls. NitrAte rises. When it rises past 5ppm, you do a huge (50-70%) water change, and your tank is cycled.

While cycling, it is necessary that you have a filter running 24/7. The filter airates the water and keeps the bacteria that make the conversions alive. Not to mention that the benificial bacteria live in your filter... Also, a good liquid testing kit is advised. The API Master Test Kit is the best, which you can get from Walmart for 20 or so dollars (half of what the petstores sell them for).

Anyways, for cycling, here is an awesome link (complete with pictures :D ) http://www.fishlore.com/NitrogenCycle.htm

(cycling in a nutshell: 1) put ammonia source in. 2) watch and wait. 3) watch ammonia rise and fall 4) watch NitrItes rise and fall. 5) Watch nitrAtes rise 6) water change 7) Done!!)


**** it isn't advised to use PH up or PH down, just FYI

[shmifty5]

I would just like to add that bettas are extremely hardy and durable, they are far more forgiving of a new owners mistakes than almost any other fish, they also have some great personalities and when you keep a successful sorority you can watch some amazing interactions (whether it be them setting up territories or them sleeping beside each other, it's all so very fun especially after everybody tells you not to keep them together ever (I liken the feeling to rebellion, to experience something which few other get to enjoy)).

If you do get a betta make sure you know it's gender and keep things in reasonable conditions, you don't need super clean water or super precise care for bettas, just keep them warm and fed and they should do fine for many years.