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Old 06-23-2014, 09:01 AM   #21 
CasGer
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Yeah, his aggression will definitely lower if you get him neutered. Young male cats have all sorts of hormones that can change their behavior. Hopefully he will mellow out a bit if you do that.


Also, excessive biting and aggression can be a sign of stress or boredom in cats. Does he have any toys with which he can play off that energy? How about a cat house, or a safe place to hide? With cats it's very important that they feel they have a place they can go to 'escape' whatever stressful situation they're in (even having visitors over can freak out some cats).


If not, I'd recommend marching over to a pet shop and buying some nice, cheap toys and maybe even a cat tunnel or a cat tree if you want to get fancy. My cats really love feather-on-stick type toys, and will chase them relentlessly. It tires them out and helps them burn off extra energy, which in turn relaxes them.


If you can't invest in a cat hide-out, it can sometimes be done just as easily as rearranging a little furniture. Most cats just need a space big enough for them to squeeze into (like between a sofa and the wall) when they can feel secure, and still keep watch over things. Cats also like to be high up when they're feeling insecure, so sometimes installing 'kitty shelves' can help too. That way they can retreat to the skies and survey the area from above, while feeling safe from the 'dangers' of the floor.
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Old 06-25-2014, 11:17 PM   #22 
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Two suggestions:

One - Get him neutered ASAP! Intact males are more aggressive than their neutered counterparts, and also stink. Their urine has a very powerful smell which reduces a couple of weeks after the operation. The aggression will also decrease some.

Two - Get him a friend, and introduce them properly. Cats are highly social animals, and do best with other feline companionship. They might be independent hunters, but they are not "solitary" or "loners" like so many people claim. In the wild, they live in prides.

He may be a "young adult" but he is no more grown than a human teenager. A second young cat will give him someone to pounce and bite that isn't you. I HIGHLY recommend this - I cannot recommend it enough!

I will detail how to properly introduce a new cat to the household in my next post. First, a little background:

Five years ago, my husband and I finally moved into an apartment large enough to get a pet. I was given a male kitten about 3 months old. His owner had found him as a very young stray living in a restaurant parking lot.

We called him Montalban. This little boy had numerous behavior problems. The squirt bottle did not work to curb his nasty behavior - he thought water was fun and would play with it. (As a side note, adding a few drops of white vinegar to the squirt bottle makes it more effective, and won't hurt the cat).

Montalban was a biter. He bit hard enough to cause swelling and would attack with no provocation. Scruffing (taking hold of the loose skin at the back of the neck) caused attack instead of submission, and he had no manners. He would attack us for no reason, and hurt us, and could not be tired out no matter how much we played with him.

I didn't see him sleep for 3 months. He was a monster.

I consulted a rescue group, and I talked to my vet, and looked online. All of the sources said the same thing: Get another kitten.

Reluctantly, we agreed to try this avenue, since it was that or turn him in to the animal shelter, because we simply could not handle him any more. I contacted a local rescue group and brought in a second neutered boy, who we called Shatner.

Montalban's behavior problems disappeared overnight. He was so fascinated with the new cat's sound and smells that he left us alone. He has been a nicer cat ever since.
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Old 06-25-2014, 11:46 PM   #23 
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I volunteered as an adoption counselor at an animal shelter for about a year and a half while I was out of work. They taught us volunteers a few things!

How to properly introduce a new cat to your home:

Do not just adopt a cat that "seems good" and add him to your household. This occasionally works, but often leads to cats that hate each other. Cats live by first impressions, and you want to make the best one possible. They dislike change and surprises. Expect to take anywhere from three days to three weeks to fully integrate a new cat.

Consider the age and energy level of your cat. With fully adult cats (over 3 years of age) it is a more difficult and time-consuming process to add a new cat, although it can still be done! Many adult cats have an easier time adapting to kittens than other adults.

1) Choose whether you would like to go through an animal shelter, or a rescue group. I do not recommend getting a "free" cat from an acquaintance; they often end up being more expensive than a shelter cat in the long run. Shelter and rescue cats usually have had vaccinations, and often have been neutered before adoption.

2) Select your new cat. In your case, you'll probably want a cat between 9 months and 2 years in age. You want a kitty with a similar energy level, so watch the candidates at play. Some people swear you need a female if you have a male, but I've never noticed a difference in how they get along. This will be much more relevant since your cat isn't neutered yet. You really want to get him neutered.

Note: Some rescue groups test for FIV (Kitty HIV) and Leukemia. They may require you to do so as well, and provide some kind of health guarantee for their cats. Check in on this if you can. It's a good idea to get your boy tested, if you can afford it.

A cat with FIV must be neutered and kept inside - this disease is sexually transmitted. A cat with FIV may live a full life if kept in an excellent and disease free environment. There is no effective vaccination. Leukemia is always fatal, and highly contagious. Effective vaccinations are available. Do not adopt another cat if yours tests positive for either disease - while FIV is not easily transmitted after neutering, bites can spread the disease.

3) Prepare a room for your new cat. The room must be a place where the new cat can be safely shut in. Many people use a bathroom, because it is small and not usually a big part of the old cat's territory. It needs a small litter box, and a place for food and water. It's best to keep the food and water as far from the litter box as possible. Many cats won't eat near where they mess.

4) Cat beds: Place a small cat bed in the new cat's room. Leave one of your dirty shirts or an old towel in the bed for the new cat to sleep on. Place another cat bed on your old cat's favorite sleeping spot, with one of your shirts or another old towel.

5) Bring your new cat home. Shut him in the room you have prepared. While it's tempting to play with him right away, let him get used to the smells and sounds of the new place before you pester him.

6) Wait 1 week. Give both of your cats plenty of attention and affection. You don't want your old cat to get "older brother syndrome" out of neglect.

- After 1 week, switch the places of the old shirts, so that the new cat gets the one the other has been sleeping on, and vise versa.

- After 1 more week, switch the shirts again.

Why do this? Cats introduce themselves by smell. By using old shirts, you're mixing your smell with each cat's smell, and then mixing the two cat smells together. This gets the cats used to the idea of a friend without shocking them, and makes the process go more smoothly.

7) Let the cats meet. You'll know when it's time, because there will be inquisitive mewing, and they will play with each other under the door. :)
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Old 06-26-2014, 01:20 AM   #24 
brian c
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no offence but are you sure thatís a cat id doesnít have hair and looks like a naked rat
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Old 06-26-2014, 01:24 AM   #25 
brian c
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i just read my own post and started laughing hahaha
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Old 06-26-2014, 10:55 AM   #26 
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That is a rather handsome sphinx! One of my friends has a whole posse of them. Lovely cats. They require more skin care than the furry variety, but the skin feels like velvet and they are full of personality. Perfect if someone in your house has shedding concerns.
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