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Old 01-09-2011, 07:57 PM   #61 
JaspersANGEL
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I have the same tank as Lion Mom for one of my Betta's and I used her method of baffling too with the sponge and the rubber band.

My other two tanks are, well one's sans filter for the moment and the other I didn't really find a way to baffle it yet cause the whole thing is open: like this:
http://www.aqueonproducts.com/produc...le-lagoon.htm# The filter picture!

But tomorrow I'll try the little sponge piece in the intake's just so my Betta's fin's stay intact.

Great thread guy's!
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:33 PM   #62 
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yeah i think im gonna put a sponge in the intake tube, that sounds like a good idear. but actually it doesnt bother my fish anymore, just when hes like 5 inches from it i see him getting sucked in a little, but its not bad at all anymore, i think hes used to it.
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Old 01-16-2011, 07:52 PM   #63 
TharBePirates
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Has anyone successfully baffled a Marinelad Eclipse 12 gal? The current is WAY to strong for Gyarados, and I can't find a way to slow it down.
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Old 01-16-2011, 08:34 PM   #64 
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Thumbs up

FYI I went with the whisper i10 and the Zoomed small floating log it stays in place on its own with the filter current. the fish go in and out, there was a couple of femfish squrmishes inside, but they settled into having a hideout handy. the glass shrimp do not use it. It has not moved in six hours, so it may not even need a mooring. Good thing around $15.00 @ pet supply plus
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Old 01-17-2011, 02:00 PM   #65 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TharBePirates View Post
Has anyone successfully baffled a Marinelad Eclipse 12 gal? The current is WAY to strong for Gyarados, and I can't find a way to slow it down.

You can shove some small pieces of aquarium sponge into the holes where the water comes back into the tank. Did that with my 3 gal. Eclipse & it worked.
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Old 01-18-2011, 05:17 PM   #66 
dillbetta
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Now, The plastic plants can be moved The log has not moved in two days. A successful operation and the patient lived. Igor, go get the salad tongs, muhahaha.
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Old 01-29-2011, 05:54 PM   #67 
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I used this method on Biscotti's tank and I've never seen a happier fish, he is exploring the areas he couldn't go before, and this should help him catch his food... the current was washing it away and he'd lose it in the tank chasing it, I was scared he'd starve! Very nice tutorial, and a huge help!
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Old 02-11-2011, 12:00 AM   #68 
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baffling bio-wheel filters

Please keep in mind that Penguin/Penguin B filters use water flow to operate the bio-wheel and keep it turning so you shouldn't reduce intake flow because it will reduce biological function.

The best of the single wheels imho is the 150b but its intake power is enormous, I had a girl who ended up crushed around it and lost her swim bladder then spent the next five months powering to the surface and gliding down. My fixes for the 150b include the intake from a 200b, always using the mid-level intake with a ring of sponge around it AND running a pair of pins up through holes in the output plate to put a line of poly needlepoint grid into the flow.

With betta I'd ALWAYS get an intake sponge of one size or another, if you need one you can cut-to-fit the Cascade internal filters have replacement sponges up to one nearly four inches square by seven tall with a small hole down through it.

The penguin 200b tho is an odd case problem, thanks for bringing it up!

My 200b is now a backup filter because when it is dirty it only moves about 160 to 170gph. The bio-wheel stalls constantly and can't even cope with snails. As a mechanical and chemical filter it is awesome, the double slot and the addition of being able to use baskets made for it really help a lot but it simply lacks the ability to intake enough water for any margin of maintenance. One modification that can help is an E shaped baffle just before the bio-wheel that forces the water into two higher streams but I figure that's just a stop-gap not a reliable fix.

I'll be honest with you, if you like the 200b and need that level of filtration, splurge on an Emperor 280. They come with a large carbon basket that you can put cut-to-fit filter material in front of and never have to buy another disposable filter. They do stick deeper into the tank lid space than the 200 but not by much. The benefit to the 280 is in the way it was made.

It uses the intake strainer from the emperor 400, a spray bar to operate the bio-wheel and has a large vertical output to play with.

On my 280's I put them at the end of my 10 gal tanks with just one modification. Using nylon bolts put through holes from the back of that large vertical plane I make layers of the poly grid slid onto the bolts with nylon nuts separating the layers. This not only slows water speed but spreads it out into a large wall of slow moving water while still keeping flow. It also gives a small boost in surface area for biology AND the water drops in behind it pulling bubbles down through the grids. My tens are both swept clean by this full smooth flow of water across the top and back across the bottom but even my oldest girls have no trouble swimming.

I sincerely advise people to check out making baffles with the poly grid but be careful not to leave any broken bits that may come off in tanks, betta try to eat anything

I get the nylon bolts and nuts at Home Depot from the bolt and nut drawer, stainless is an option but will slowly add nickle and iron to the tank. Don't use iron, brass or aluminum.

Hopefully I'll have a nice camera to take pictures with today and be able to show all these modifications.

Excess current in the water can kill your betta, remember that they are effectively holding their breath all the time. Their response to current is an instinctual one to not change position, not necessarily frolicking in flow, they live in mostly stagnant water with established biology so a sudden wash of water is a risk of losing their home in the wild.

Last edited by Thunderloon; 02-11-2011 at 12:14 AM. Reason: kinky grammar, heard 8th grade teacher rolling in grave
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Old 02-11-2011, 12:06 AM   #69 
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"baffling" small Tetra brand in-tank filters.

One word, drill.

The whisper, i2-5, i5-10 and even the larger ones can be modified for speed reduction simply by drilling small holes down the center front.

Remember to carefully de-burr the inside and outside of the holes and rinse the filter clean so Mr Angryfish doesn't eat the bits of plastic.

Holes about 3/16 to quarter inch will be more than enough while still providing a small local flow for playing around in.

My hospital tank is a classic fish-bowl with one whisper filter, it has a large intake sponge and fifteen holes across the front and a single bio-ball above the lift-pipe (screw through from back) to block spitting water.

The intake sponge I use on the hospital tank is a Fluval from the Edge series, they cost about $3.00 and make great biological pre-filters and intake covers.

Last edited by Thunderloon; 02-11-2011 at 12:13 AM. Reason: removed usless blathering
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Old 02-11-2011, 12:19 AM   #70 
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Eclipse 3 possible baffling

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lion Mom View Post
You can shove some small pieces of aquarium sponge into the holes where the water comes back into the tank. Did that with my 3 gal. Eclipse & it worked.
It would not be un-reasonable to expect a hole in the back and one or two on the end by the tank wall would reduce the speed of output without reducing the flow rate, but be careful backing up the bio-wheel chamber on eclipse series tanks as there are places where an overflow of the filter chamber can result in run-off leaks.

I had planned gluing a small lexan plate under the output holes on my 3 Eclipse to spread the flow out but since the sucker hits 90 degrees with the light on I don't use it any more, I'll try the previous paragraph on mine to see how it works.
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