I have 1 plant in gravel and i have some plant nutrients (food i guess) in liquid form. Can i add the plant food to the tank water? would it harm my fish or be fine? I wanted to get the tablets to put int eh roots but couldn't find them at the store.
Not trying to be funny but; Do bettas fart? Or pee? just a fact I thought would be interesting to know...
I dont know if they fart, but they sort of pee, in a way. They sure do poop...
Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix91
I have 1 plant in gravel and i have some plant nutrients (food i guess) in liquid form. Can i add the plant food to the tank water? would it harm my fish or be fine? I wanted to get the tablets to put int eh roots but couldn't find them at the store.
What kind is it? Is it made for aquarium use? If so, follow the dosing at it will be fine. If not, and its something like miracle grow, I would stay away.
(Ex, seachem flourish, tetra floura pride, API's leaf zone, etc are good, use them right in!)
Question about cycling. My levels are ammonia 0ppm, nitrites 0ppm, and nitrates 5ppm. Does this mean I have finally completed cycling my tank? And how long should I wait to make sure it is stable before adding my fish to it?
Also, I have be using aquarium salt to help with his tail biting. It helped for awhile but now he has bitten off what had healed and more. He had fin rot after the first go around with it. Do I need to continue to use the salt to prevent fin rot again until he stops or do I stop and use it if I see it again? I feel he will do better in his big tank. *sigh*
Yup, its cycled. Keep tabs on the levels, though, since its such a new cycle it can still have an occasional spike. Water change when nitrates are 15-20ppm. If its been cycled, you can add in. It takes a while for it to mature fully, but youll be fine with it now, dont worry.
He might! Add him in. Keep his water clean and fresh (but dont kill the cycle) and observe him. Add in 1tsp/gallon of AQ for a few days if youre really nervous. I dont understand, though, does he have rot? Or is he biting? Or does he have rot from biting?
If the water is kept clean, usually biting wont get rot. If hes a biter, then he'll continue to bite. You shouldnt over use the AQ, though- keep it to 10days max and try to keep it one weekish a month at most.
Clean water and a gentile current/no current (not an option in a cycled tank though) will help it grow back.
Btw cycled tank owners, the question still stands: How often do you do water changes each week? =]
If this question hasn't been answered:
During the cycling process it is reccommended to do 15-20% water changes, mostly to aleviate the stress in your fish, but also to reduce the levels of Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrates from being toxic to your fish. Doing no more than 20% ensures that the tank can still cycle properly and the bacteria can establish themselves, but the toxic wastes can be reduced for the fish.
One -can- do fishless cycling, but it's much more difficult to do IMHO. Alot of the bio-load comes from the fish itself in the generation of fish waste.
Cycling usually takes about a month, then after that you can switch to 50% water changes once a week.
Me personally? While a tank is cycling (I have a ten gallon I am currently refurbishing that's a month old for a new Betta, and a new 30 gallon with three Goldfish), I do 20% water changes every second day. So if I do a water change on Monday, the next time I would do so is Wednesday.
Quick question:
I'm a bit of a newbie at live plants in an aquarium, and have Java Moss and Anubias in the ten gallon in anticipation for a new Betta friend. How long do the roots take to establish on substrate or driftwood? My Anubias is currently tied down to some driftwood, and the Java Moss is at the ends of the driftwood on top of the substrate.
During the cycling process it is reccommended to do 15-20% water changes, mostly to aleviate the stress in your fish, but also to reduce the levels of Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrates from being toxic to your fish. Doing no more than 20% ensures that the tank can still cycle properly and the bacteria can establish themselves, but the toxic wastes can be reduced for the fish.
One -can- do fishless cycling, but it's much more difficult to do IMHO. Alot of the bio-load comes from the fish itself in the generation of fish waste.
Cycling usually takes about a month, then after that you can switch to 50% water changes once a week.
Me personally? While a tank is cycling (I have a ten gallon I am currently refurbishing that's a month old for a new Betta, and a new 30 gallon with three Goldfish), I do 20% water changes every second day. So if I do a water change on Monday, the next time I would do so is Wednesday.
Quick question:
I'm a bit of a newbie at live plants in an aquarium, and have Java Moss and Anubias in the ten gallon in anticipation for a new Betta friend. How long do the roots take to establish on substrate or driftwood? My Anubias is currently tied down to some driftwood, and the Java Moss is at the ends of the driftwood on top of the substrate.
Oh, and New Member, BTW. *waves*
~Kaylin
I'm no expert on tank cycling and in fact have just cycled my first tank, which is 10 gallons. While cycling I did 20% changes twice a week and now that it's done I was going to do 20% once a week. I dunno, but 50% seems like a very big water change for such a big tank.
I'm no expert on tank cycling and in fact have just cycled my first tank, which is 10 gallons. While cycling I did 20% changes twice a week and now that it's done I was going to do 20% once a week. I dunno, but 50% seems like a very big water change for such a big tank.
Sorry, I should have re-phreased that slightly.
No more than 50% in bi-weekly, or 20-25% once a week after the tank is cycled. My bad. I've heard you can do more than 50%, but I wouldn't. It would just throw the tank into Cycling again and stress out the fish. I also use SeaChem Stability in my tanks (both of them), as well as Aquarium Salt to help the fish adapt.
As I said, I do 15-20% changes every second day while the tank is cycling.
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