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Old 04-29-2011, 11:17 PM   #71 
cajunamy
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I am on my first ever spawn at all right now. My fry just started free swimming today.

To get to this point, this is what I did, which is pretty much repeating everything everyone already said, but I will write it anyway for your benefit.

I picked out my pair, and put them in seperate 2.5 gallon tanks. I put no filter in, but a heater in each one that kept the water to about 78-80F. I added a whole IAL to both tanks. BTW, the tanks where a whole room apart.

For 2 weeks, I fed them 3x a day with pellets as the first meal, then for the next 2 meals they were rotated frozen blood worms, frozen glass worms, and frozen brine shrimp.

I changed 50% of the water daily.

When the 2 weeks was up, they were nice and fat, and my mw and ve cultures were thriving.

I set up a 10 gallon tank with 4 inches of water, lots of java moss and some duck weed. I added half a styrofoam cup for the nest, and an IAL. Heater & thermometer were also added. The heater was set to 82. I also put in a sponge filter, bubbling only once every few seconds. I put dad and mom in at the same time, with dad free in the tank, and mom in a glass. After 24 hours my female was not barred, but looked ripe and was in a submissive position every time the male came near. I released her.

I put up cling wrap on the top, to lock in heat and humidity. Kept the lamp on 24 hours.

It took them a full day to start embracing, and the first few batches were eaten. They were infertile b/c they had some trouble wrapping initially. After a few hours though, they got it down. When the female started to hide, I took her out.

Dad has been doing all the work since :) I just gave the fry their first MW meal today since about 2/3 are now free swimming.
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Old 04-30-2011, 12:59 AM   #72 
baylee767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunamy View Post
I am on my first ever spawn at all right now. My fry just started free swimming today.

To get to this point, this is what I did, which is pretty much repeating everything everyone already said, but I will write it anyway for your benefit.

I picked out my pair, and put them in seperate 2.5 gallon tanks. I put no filter in, but a heater in each one that kept the water to about 78-80F. I added a whole IAL to both tanks. BTW, the tanks where a whole room apart.

For 2 weeks, I fed them 3x a day with pellets as the first meal, then for the next 2 meals they were rotated frozen blood worms, frozen glass worms, and frozen brine shrimp.

I changed 50% of the water daily.

When the 2 weeks was up, they were nice and fat, and my mw and ve cultures were thriving.

I set up a 10 gallon tank with 4 inches of water, lots of java moss and some duck weed. I added half a styrofoam cup for the nest, and an IAL. Heater & thermometer were also added. The heater was set to 82. I also put in a sponge filter, bubbling only once every few seconds. I put dad and mom in at the same time, with dad free in the tank, and mom in a glass. After 24 hours my female was not barred, but looked ripe and was in a submissive position every time the male came near. I released her.

I put up cling wrap on the top, to lock in heat and humidity. Kept the lamp on 24 hours.

It took them a full day to start embracing, and the first few batches were eaten. They were infertile b/c they had some trouble wrapping initially. After a few hours though, they got it down. When the female started to hide, I took her out.

Dad has been doing all the work since :) I just gave the fry their first MW meal today since about 2/3 are now free swimming.
Congrats on the spawn!

OP: THIS is what you need to do. None of that freeze dried nonsense. More shallow water, more hiding places, less disturbance, HEATED (No, a towel wrapped around the tank wont work, its not like they produce their own body heat as their cold blooded so they wont warm up) tanks for conditioning. Also, in response to one question, no don't condition the male in the spawning tank or he may become too territorial...
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Old 04-30-2011, 01:16 AM   #73 
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i have a heater and it is set at 82 or so in that tank. everything else is perfectly right. im just so confused.
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Old 04-30-2011, 01:22 AM   #74 
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Originally Posted by jschristian44 View Post
i have a heater and it is set at 82 or so in that tank. everything else is perfectly right. im just so confused.
NO it is not. We have said many times before that you need more plants.
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Old 04-30-2011, 01:33 AM   #75 
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Fine I'll explain it more carefully.

you. Need. A. Heater. In. Every. Tank. A. Heater. In. The. Spawning. Tank. And. A. Heater. In. The. Tank. The. Male. Will. Be. Conditioned. In. And. A. Heater. In. The. Tank. The. Female. Is. Going. To. Be. Conditioned. In. So. That. Makes. 3. Total. Heaters.

In case that was confusing: You need 3 heaters. One goes into the spawning tank, one goes into the males conditioning tank, and one goes into the females conditioning tank.

There (= Hopefully you aren't confused now about that...
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:07 AM   #76 
indjo
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1. Everything others said about conditioning and heating - general fish care.

2. 3 months IMO is too young. Yes they may spawn but need a much looonger time. Actually all first time spawners take a longer time playing "chase and tag". Further with young/too small females, IMO you will get few fry survive to adult.

3. You obviously don't understand their body language. I don't understand why you took them out the last time - your video showed both were willing to spawn. SO I suggest you use more hiding places. THEN YOU WONT NEED TO WORRY ABOUT YOUR FEMALE GETTING HURT. Most important DON'T put the hiding places under or anywhere near the nest area. The female won't go anywhere near it. Your current set up can be fatal if the male were too aggressive.... the female has nowhere to hide/run to where the male can't follow.

4. Anchor the plants and place it in front of your squidward. Better yet get more plants and place them opposite to the nest area.... with or without the squid. If you jam plants 1/3 of the tank, you can release them and forget about them until they spawn - the female can easily hide.

5. Your light is NOT the problem But it would be better if you dimmed the light. And your checking up on them every now and then doesn't disturb them .... your video shows that your pair is comfortable with your presence (body language-behavior). So I conclude that your only problem is patience..... let nature take it's course no matter HOW LONG it takes - as long as your male doesn't beat the life out of the female (according to the video). The bigger the tank will sometimes postpone spawning. The more hiding places may also do the same. BUT it's safer...... again patience is DEMANDED.

Sorry about the long post.
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:56 AM   #77 
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thanks for the help. i think they might be a little young yet and i didnt have enough patience. but i really feel the light thing played a big part. i read it stresses them and that just causes them to fight more which they did. all the other basic things were more than enough right to have an embrace. i dont think i gave them enough time/privacy. but im gonna wait til mid summer now until i try and spawn them again just so they are rested and i can get everything else correct and they grow more. anyways, thanks again.
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Old 04-30-2011, 09:35 AM   #78 
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No freeze dried foods, do not feed them any freeze dried foods, I repeat DO NOT FEED FREEZE DRIED FOODS. They have basically no nutritional value at all so they do nothing to condition your fish. I don't feed FD foods at all because IMO they're basically worthless. Same for flakes.

Here is a list of acceptable foods for conditioning:
frozen blood worms, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, glass worms
NLS betta + NLS growth formula (I would mix these together because you'll need the extra protien in the NLS growth)
Atisons Betta PRO
Live foods such as bloodworms, mosquito larvae, white worms, black worms, fruit flies, etc
OFL's homemade fish food recipe (I used to use this for conditioning a lot and it works well if fed with some of the other foods listed)

About the water level... that is all a matter of OPINION. Please don't get confused by multiple posters telling you what water level you need. Just because someone breeds in shallow containers doesn't mean that it's wrong to breed in full containers. I have breed in 5in of water 8 in of water, and 12 in of water and have had spawns in all 3 (with halfmoon fish BTW). HOWEVER, the more water you have the more food you need to feed so you get optimum coverage of the tank so all the fry get a chance at food. I do not recommend breeding in anything over 4-5" of water unless you have LOTS of live plants in the tank (at least 1/2 the tank) so the fry will be able to eat infusorians while learning to find food for themselves.

In the words of OFL "A well conditioned fish won't care how deep the water is".

For a new breeder I recommend keeping your water level at around 5 inches, just do your best guess.

Same with hiding spots. Some pairs are too happy to live together in the tank as long as they can get away from each other. Since you've already seen that your pair can live in the tank without killing each other I actually think more hiding places are a BAD idea in this case.

Last edited by 1fish2fish; 04-30-2011 at 09:38 AM. Reason: Clarification
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Old 04-30-2011, 09:42 AM   #79 
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thanks 1fish2fish i think that was right as well. i just think this pair was too young and i needed to dim the lights. i will let them grow and by this summer im gonna make the changes, hopefully it will work!
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Old 04-30-2011, 03:24 PM   #80 
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Originally Posted by baylee767 View Post
Fine I'll explain it more carefully.

you. Need. A. Heater. In. Every. Tank. A. Heater. In. The. Spawning. Tank. And. A. Heater. In. The. Tank. The. Male. Will. Be. Conditioned. In. And. A. Heater. In. The. Tank. The. Female. Is. Going. To. Be. Conditioned. In. So. That. Makes. 3. Total. Heaters.

In case that was confusing: You need 3 heaters. One goes into the spawning tank, one goes into the males conditioning tank, and one goes into the females conditioning tank.

There (= Hopefully you aren't confused now about that...
I. Adore. You.
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