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Old 06-11-2011, 10:50 PM   #1 
corvinusvz
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Canister or Cascade?

Hey guys!
I need to ask this
What would you choose a 20g canister filter or a 30g cascade filter?

I want to give my betta an upgrade, he is in a 10g (In a near future this will become planted thank) aquarium with a 10g filter but I think it need more filter capacity. Of course I will add a filter baffle while he adapts to the current like he did with the 10g cascade filter. So…. What would you choose? Keep it with the 10g cascade filter (almost inexistent filter media for the bacteria)? The 30g cascade filter (a little bit more filter media for the bacteria)? The 20g canister filter (more filter media for the bacteria)?

it looks weird because it is a post-cleaning photo.
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Old 06-11-2011, 11:35 PM   #2 
bettafish15
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A planted tank doesnt require more filter power, the plants do the filtering. The filter for a 10g you have is fine, even if you add tankmates. :)

I don't see a heater, does your tank stay consistantly at 77-81F?
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Old 06-11-2011, 11:39 PM   #3 
Twilight Storm
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I am not an expert on planted tanks, or on fish, so I might be wrong here.

I think the filter would mainly be most important to what types of plants you want to put in there, how well you can baffle the current in the tank for the betta, and if you are going to put some tankmates in there.

If you were going for a low tech, low light tank, you can get away with the cheaper HOB filter I think with no problems. A lot of people have HOB filters in their planted Betta tanks. (Including myself but it is still a work in progress atm.)

I don't think I have read any posts yet with anyone using a canister on their betta tank. If anyone is though, I would love to hear about it since I am wracking my brain trying to figure out how to have a plant that likes currents + a fish that likes still water in the same tank. (It seems all the fish I love are still water fish, and all the plants I love, like currents LOL.)

Good luck, best wishes, and welcome to the forum!

EDIT: Bettafish15 snuck in there and answered while I was typing. :D I am sure everyone else knows better then I do, so take my post with a grain of salt. :D

Last edited by Twilight Storm; 06-11-2011 at 11:41 PM. Reason: I'm slowwwwwwwwwwww
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Old 06-12-2011, 11:52 AM   #4 
corvinusvz
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bettafish15:
Thanks! By the moment it’s really hot in here that why I don't have a heater right now but, I will add it in the winter. D:
Twilight Storm:
Thanks! I want to try the canister because I hadn’t seen anybody with one of those for a betta, (only in big tanks and for piranha) it would be a nice experiment to try one (:

Well for the moment I will leave my filter, when my tank is heavily planted I will see if I need the upgrade :B
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Old 06-13-2011, 08:54 PM   #5 
Thunderloon
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Hm

Canister filter for a single betta is a no.

The actual size of a canister type filter you'd need for one single betta in a tank would be about the size of a vienna sausage can! You could probably make one cheaper than buy one for that size and purpose.

I've got a lightly planted tank with 10 girls, 2 bloodfin and Buck the molly-that-thinks-he's-a-girl-betta and I use a C-220 with floss, foam, fluval clay hex, nano rings and nitrate media then return it to the tank using a Bio-Pro 30 wheel. Total cost: $210.00.

The little zoo-med or toms "canister" filters aren't, they have high bypass rates and honestly the Aquaclear are much more a canister filter than a HOB. If you want one for a ten that will support a full fish load the 30 would do fine. Get a fluval pre-filter sponge (edge's type) and put an air-stone in just above the bottom sponge in the filter. On bypass the 30 is perfect for a 10g betta tank.

Canisters are actually a very technical piece of equipment and you shouldn't use them unless you have a clear need. I occasionally have to support 2 and 3 inches per gallon in my tens, the 220/30 combo lets me keep them alive long enough to fix whatever is wrong with another tank and it IS silent. On the flip side to that I have to wear nitrile gloves when I break it down, I clean the housing once per month and do treated sloshings of the media once every other month. They can leak and spill, they can lose their hoses. They can jam or pick up crap from around the work area and you really cannot slow them down like HOB or submersibles.

My Aq20 I have the pre-filter sponge, main sponge, double air-stones, bag of bio-slugs, main sponge and run at full bypass on a 5gal tank full FULL of guppy babies and it does the job well.

The little zoo-med/tom's "canish filters" do work but are rather pointless pieces of equipment if you're using a full aquarium. However they're great for turtle tanks.
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Old 06-19-2011, 04:04 PM   #6 
corvinusvz
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thanks Thunderloon i will try that (:
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