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Betta Grow Out Tank? Help!

4K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  Sena Hansler 
#1 ·
I've been breeding 2 years, and I've been very sucessful, but.. I've never had a really amazing grow out tank! So I've looked into a few others, and I want to know if this is a good idea, (the tank will be 10 gallons, I know, not much of a grow out, but it's just to seperate half the fry until they get a little bigger and can be moved to the 20 gallon grow out)


Here's the plan:

- 10 gallon, heated, sponge filter, complelty full of water
- I'll have java moss as a live plant..
- shrimp
- snails
- sand


Here's some questions,

Should I get any other type of plant, other than the Java Moss?

I heard cherry shrimp do not bother fry, but ghost shrimp do.. Is this true? Could I use either type of shrimp? Should the shrimp be a certian size? How many should I get? Or, are shrimp not a good idea at all??

I want to get some trumpet snails, I know they are asexual, how many should I get? Is it true they do not harm fry & do a good job of cleaning algea?

Finally, Sand.. What kind do you suggest? How much do i need? and about how much is it? Is there any other subtrate I could try?



Additional details:
The fry will be moved around 1-3 weeks, depending on size. Then will be moved to a bigger tank around 7 weeks (depending on the ammount of fry & their size)
 
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#2 ·
IMO it doesn't really mater how big the grow out is AS LONG AS you keep up with water changes. I sometimes keep fry in 1g if I breed in them. How long depends on number of fry. But usually I begin to move or divide them when they reach 3-5mm.

The plant I use is mainly anacharis. Sometimes 1 or 2 bacopa and cabomba, but most are usually anacharis, since mine can tolerate very low light (covered dark tub). I have never used substrates nor shrimps for fry, so I can't answer that one.
Common pond snails grow in all my tubs - not sure how many in each (lots). But when they poop too much for my taste, I usually remove the bigger ones. If I intentionally use them, probably 1-3 in 1g containers. But they don't do much algae cleaning, they only help reduce uneaten food.
 
#3 ·
You can get maybe 20 bettas to a decent size in a 10 gal. I use them for small spawns. No matter how many water changes you do, a 10 is not big enough for more that the 20 fish.. you will not be able to keep water quality. I use sponge walls as well as plants.. and a dozen juvies are about all I want in my tens. For a good size spawn at least a 30 is good. Can use a 20 gals for 20-30 fish.
 
#4 ·
@indjo - How big are the tubs you breed in? Would you reccomend it over glass tanks? I've always wanted to try it, but I have no clue how i'd set it up.. I do have a fish room so i don't use heaters since the room is set to 80 degrees, and i wanted to get storage bin tubs to breed in. The very large kind, the size of 20 gallon glass tank (about). I was planning on using those, with live plants, indian almond leaves, a sponge filter, and maybe a few snails...
 
#5 ·
The round tubs are about 60cm in diameter - dark (black and blue) . . . I think about 7g, not sure. I also use 60 ltr storage containers. I don't limit size, it's just what was convenient to the space I had.

The round tubs are usually filled 1/2 - 2/3, heavily planted at one half and covered (at least) the top of the opposite side - where I want them to nest. The containers were initially plant nurseries so they are heavily planted, filled 2/3 - full, and covered where I want the nest. . . . I don't use floating plants like water lettuces nor do I use half cup method because it makes it hard to see and harvest eggs (if I need to artificially hatch).
 
#7 ·
No substrates. I anchor with fishing sinkers - 5 stems per anchor. Mainly anacharis, some cabomba and bacopa.

My method is very different from everyone here. I can't, for the love of god, breed in new clean water. I need to age my water - cycled? maybe, IDK.

Clean everything, fill it up full, dump about 1/2 - 1 ltr daphnia (sometimes plus tubifex) and let it rot (my tubs are outside, away from most people). Water will foul the first week but should clear in the third week. By then, there will be lots of micro critters, including bloodworms. Put the male in and leave him for a week or two. Then put the female in.

The storage containers are very seldom cleaned - always full of plants and 1 male. If I decide to breed, I release a female.
 
#8 ·
For young fry aging the water is better anyways I found.

If using a 10 gallon... Avoid snails and shrimp. They just make more waste than you expect :lol: I had a hitch hiking mystery snail in my growout who pooped more than my fry x.x
 
#9 ·
I guess that would be a bit tricky since where I live the weather changes dramatically & randomly. Could I age the water in tubs out side, and once it turns clear put them in my fish room?(I would do it in June where the weather is 80's to 90's & do you feed the male if there's already things for him to eat in the tub? Or would it make more waste?
 
#10 ·
Yes you could. But don't pour everything in the tank. Just take 50% of the water (by siphoning the top) to add into your tank/tub. Must Make Clear - This will NOT sustain fry. They will still need immediate feedings.

Since it takes time, set the bucket now so you can harvest it in June or when you need it. In this case, put lots of dried leaves in your bucket plus enough plants to ensure micro organism growth.
 
#11 ·
Did you know? Whenever I had a spawn, I used ls of live plants. These were placed either 1 week, to three days before spawning. After the spawn (usually 8 hours to 1 week itself), by the time the eggs hatched I noticed microorganisms... Daphnia, and infusoria. For the first couple of days without their eggsack (free swimming stage) depending on the size of spawn, they ate those, making it easier to have a BBS culture set up.
 
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