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Oldfishlady water change recommendations

121K views 361 replies 117 participants last post by  cfaye3char 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Lots of different ways to successfully keep this species-

Based on the experiments I have conducted over the years-I have found that water quality can be maintained by these water change schedules. This is based on feeding quality foods and not overfeeding-since most water quality problems are due to poor quality foods and overfeeding more than byproducts produced by the Betta.

You don't want to base water change needs on water test ALONE-The test result can be helpful too, however, we don't test for the DOC's (dissolved organic compounds) that also build up that can be problematic.

All tanks need at least weekly-to-twice weekly water changes and water changes based on water prams of-Ammonia, nitrite 0.25ppm or greater and Nitrate of 40ppm or greater-It is best to keep nitrate under 20ppm.

If using plants fert-make water change-then add the ferts so you will remove any unused ferts so the algae can't to help prevent algae problems. With that said, some species of algae can be good and a sign of a healthy system, however, the aquarium is still a closed system and manual removal will still be needed on occasion.

Remember-some products/additives used in the tank can cause skewed test results. Have a base line with your source water with and without these products so you don't make unneeded water changes based on skewed results.

Tanks:
1-4gal without a filter or live plants
Twice weekly-1-50% water only and 1-100%

1-4gal with a filter
Twice weekly-1-50% water only and 1-50% with substrate cleaning by vacuum or stir and dip method.
Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month.

1-4gal with/without filter and with live plants-
This can vary based on number, specie and growth state of the plants. Generally with live plants even without a filter you don't want to make 100% water changes.

5-9gal without a filter
Once weekly 50% with vacuum-with 90-100% monthly

5-9gal with a filter
Weekly 50% with vacuum
Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month.

5-9gal with/without filter and with live plants
This can vary based on number, specie and growth state of the plants. Generally with live plants even without a filter you don't want to make 100% water changes.

10+gal without a filter
Once weekly 50% with vacuum and 90-100% as needed based on stocking

10+gal with a filter
Weekly 50% with vacuum
Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month.


10+gal with/without filter and with live plants
This can vary based on number, specie and growth state of the plants. Generally with live plants even without a filter you don't want to make 100% water changes.

You want to vacuum in all areas you can reach without moving anything or disruption of plant roots. It is best not to move decorations around-but if you need to or you want to change things around-Be sure and vacuum well under items-you may or may not need to make 2 back to back water changes in order to get the excess mulm/debris buildup under items.
If you do-don't clean the filter media or clean the non-viewing walls-especially in cycled tanks to prevent min-cycle/spikes.

When you vacuum-Unplug both the filter and heater-Then plunge the vacuum deep into the substrate and as the mulm/debris clear in a second or two-move and repeat.
You will not get all the mulm/debris and this is okay-Once you refill with like temp dechlorinated water and turn the filter back on the water should clear within the hour-even without a filter the water should clear. If not, you either missed a water change, over feeding or overstocked.

It is best to leave the Betta in the tank with partial water changes.
When making 100% water changes and you cup the Betta-be sure and properly acclimate back to the new chemistry like you do with a new Betta-By adding small amounts of the new tank water to the holding container over 10-15min or to tolerance-Net and add to the tank without adding the holding containers water.
Be sure and have some extra dechlorinated water on hand to use for top offs if needed.

Too clean can sometimes be as bad as too dirty-We all know what too dirty can do-but too clean and too many water changes especially 100% water changes can be stressful, disrupt the balance of the good and bad bacteria/pathogens and antibody development. Its hard for life to be maintained in too clean and sterile conditions.

I am not saying to not make water changes-what I am saying is that this species doesn't produce the amount of byproduct that you think and removal of all the organics in the tank too often can disrupt the balance and by removing all the bad you are removing the good that helps to keep the bad controlled.....Balance.....

Remember-to always wash hand well before and after working on your tank/Betta. And to unplug both the heater and filter...Safety for both you and your wet-pet.....​
 
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#38 ·
Is there anything special I need to do when I replace the filter cartridge? I have 2 live plants in my tank.
 
#39 ·
This depends....size of tank, age of tank, stocking, species of plants and how mature the nitrogen cycle.

I don't change my filter media until its falling apart-generally all that need to be done with the filter media is to give it a good rinse/swish in the bucket of old tank water a couple of times a month.
Unless you plan to use carbon and it is part of your filter media-like with the cartridges-then you need to change that per package direction.
You may or may not need to cut a section from the old filter media sponge and add to your new filter media to seed it, however, this depends on the factors I stated above.

Carbon isn't needed in most tanks-its more of a personal choice. With that said, its a good idea to always have some fresh/unused carbon on hand for emergencies.
 
#40 ·
It's a Whisper filter with a bio bag. The directions say to change when the water is going over the top of the filter cartridge. It isn't doing that yet, so I think it's still good. I'll swish it in tank water the next time I change the water.
 
#41 ·
Ugh! Sometimes I feel so confused and like I should give my beautiful girl back to the store so I don't risk killing her by my lack of knowing what is the right thing to do. Although I have had her for 2 months and she seems healthy and happy. It would just be a big heart break for me if I did something to kill her.

Oldfishlady, you said in the original test of the post...

1-4gal with/without filter and with live plants-
This can vary based on number, specie and growth state of the plants. Generally with live plants even without a filter you don't want to make 100% water changes...

This is my setup, I have a 2.5 gal heated tank. I took the filter out because apparently I don't need it in a small tank. I also have two small live plants in the tank which really don't seem like they are growing any. They appear to me to be the same size as when I bought them 2 months ago although they also seem healthy. I also have a moss ball in the tank. I feed her 2-3 pellets twice a day and she is eating every pellet so there is none falling to the bottom of the tank.

So my question is do I need to do 100% water changes every week or no?

When I do the 100% water changes I rinse in hot water everything but the plants, I rinse them in cool water. I also whip out the tank and put everything back then add my aged well water. I have not been using any conditioner but it has been advised so I will get some Prime this weekend and start doing that. Which I am sure I will have questions on that also! lol

I have only been doing 100% changes once a week, and no 50% changes.

I am doing this right or no?

Thank you for responding!

Lisa
 
#43 ·
What species are the plants and are they rooted? For plants to help with water quality they need to be in active growth and using the byproducts in the tank so they are not harmful to the Betta. Not all plants are good at this or use enough of the byproducts. Numbers, species and growth state of the plants makes a difference.

With rooted plants-you don't want to disrupt the roots with 100% water changes. You can also, make larger volume changes without disruption of the roots by making light vacuum or stir and dip method-removing 90% of the water.

Lights are a big factor with live plants-without the proper color temp the plants can't get the energy needed for proper growth and to use the byproducts in the tank.
What kind of lights, age of bulbs, kelvin and photoperiod.

I have well water and don't use dechlorinator products, however, all well water can be different and it can change with the season and weather changes. I am not saying you don't need a dechlorinator-just that you might not need it either. IMO/E-the less chemical additives the better
 
#45 ·
I think I have 2 different kinds of Anubias. One is Anubias Congensis with the tall leaves and the other I can't remember but it is pictured in my avatar with the flatter bigger leaves that they can lay on. That pic was taken the day I got them and the plant is no bigger. I have them buried under my gravel with smooth marble on top of that and a pot in between them. Did I bury them too much?

The light that I have been using is an LED light which gives off no heat and I do not have it directly over the tank but more to the side of the tank so I imagine the plant gets nothing from it. I have the tank sitting by my kitchen window but again off to the side so it is not getting direct sunlight. Will my plants eventually die?

So if this is what is considered rooted, then I shouldn't be doing 100% water changes in order to help the plants grow?

How do you get all the waste out of the tank if you don't do 100% changes? I guess I need to go and get a baster and see if I can suck up the bad stuff!

The weather is changing for sure so I will get the water tested again to make sure it is still good.

So do I sound crazy with all these questions? lol

I just want to make sure I am learning all I can to make sure she has a long happy, healthy life with me!

Thanks for "holding my hand" while I am learning! Makes me feel better knowing someone is out there to help newbies like me, and there have been a few of you who have really helped me!

Thank you OFL for replying! I really appreciate all this information!

Lisa
 
#46 ·
No, not crazy at all.....

Anubias is a slow growing, low feeding plant and its not a rooted plant-it should be tied/anchored to something like driftwood, rock or decoration of some type. The rhizome needs to be above the substrate-otherwise it can rot.

Since you have Anubias-you can remove it to make 100% water changes if you feel you need to make them, however, IMO/E they are not needed-but it shouldn't hurt either.

Since you are also getting natural light from the window-that should be plenty for the plant photosynthesis-most of the LED lights are not suited for plant growth-but the species of plant you have are a low light plant-if you opt for other species of plants you will most likely need to change your lights.
 
#49 ·
Oh, fishing line! I have that so that is what I will use.

I am going to change her tank today so I can get those plants right and hopefully they will start growing.

Thanks again for all your help!

Do I need to wash everything in hot water though or just lightly rinse them?

Thanks!

Lisa
 
#53 ·
Regarding water quality, I just got proper testing kits and everything but ph is good. My tap water is just bad. My old bettas (got them in May of this year) get 50-75% water change each week and I use Prime. Shall I change them over to spring bottled water which is closer to neutral but not exactly neutral, or a combo of the waters? My new fish got a cycled tank with Prime'd spring water.
 
#54 ·
Unless the fish are having problems with your source water or you have extreme pH issues....It is best to use your tap water along with a dechlorinator.

Bottled water is not all created equal and sometimes it is just filtered tap water that still contains additives that are not healthy for fish, as well as the filtering process that can remove the minerals that are important for long term health. Plus, it can get expensive using bottled water....

Most Betta will adapt to the source water pH without issues IME....

What is your pH and KH/GH of your source water-with and without additives and the 24h degas.
 
#57 ·
The 24h degas for the pH-you pour a clean glass of source water-do a pH test-then let that glass of water sit for 24h and re-test the pH. Once the water degases-it will give you a more accurate pH reading.

The test strips are great for a quick check, however, when you need to make changes to the pH/KH/GH it is better to use the liquid reagent test products.

With that said, it is better to allow the Betta to adapt to your source water. If your Betta is having problems-then you would need to adjust the water.

Are these numbers for the bottled water or your tap water.
 
#60 · (Edited)
I am new to having an aquarium and have water change questions.

I have a Fluval Spec V - five gallons. I added a fish a week ago today, a male betta.

1) I drew water a few days ago to do my water change with, it is 68 degrees. I am keeping the tank at 80. When I do water change, should I be heating the new water in any way? Won't a change of temperature stress my betta? I've been doing water changes while cycling and all the weeks the plants were in there without fish and never thought about the temperature I was adding to the tank. Now, with a Betta in there...?

2) The tank has a lot of plants in it. A local fish club member gave me starts of 15 different types of plants several weeks ago. I only have the one Betta in the tank. I have not seen any snails that would have come with the plants. Also, I feed pellets one by one - blood worms too... and the fish has eaten every bite as I give it to him - none fell to the bottom. With one Betta and lots of plants - will there be enough food for the beneficial bacteria to survive to allow the tank to be cycled? Am I correct in thinking that water changes won't affect the cycle, but will drop nitrate?

3) The tank numbers have been stable since I put the Betta in last Friday, and stopped adding small amounts of ammonia a couple days before that. I use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. My well water tests .25 ammonia out of the tap.
So, for the last week -
ammonia is between 0 and .25 - it is just slightly colored
nitrite is 0
nitrate is 10
The plants are growing and rooting, and the Betta seems really happy, is active, eating well.
Should I do a 50% change once a week -- or more or less often? I was not sure given all the plants, and only one fish in 5 gal.

Thanks so much!
 
#61 ·
In a 5gal filtered and heavy planted tank-50% water change every week to 2 weeks...depending on number, species and growth state of the plants. I wouldn't worry about the ammonia in the well water or cycling per se. The active plant growth will take care of the ammonia and any cycling issue.

You can sit your premix jug of water you use for water changes in hot/warm water to bring it to temp for water changes. Or, adjust at the tap and fill your jugs with like temp water to start. It is better on the Betta to try and get your replacement water fairly close to the tank water temp for water changes.
 
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