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Oldfishlady water change recommendations

121K views 361 replies 117 participants last post by  cfaye3char 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Lots of different ways to successfully keep this species-

Based on the experiments I have conducted over the years-I have found that water quality can be maintained by these water change schedules. This is based on feeding quality foods and not overfeeding-since most water quality problems are due to poor quality foods and overfeeding more than byproducts produced by the Betta.

You don't want to base water change needs on water test ALONE-The test result can be helpful too, however, we don't test for the DOC's (dissolved organic compounds) that also build up that can be problematic.

All tanks need at least weekly-to-twice weekly water changes and water changes based on water prams of-Ammonia, nitrite 0.25ppm or greater and Nitrate of 40ppm or greater-It is best to keep nitrate under 20ppm.

If using plants fert-make water change-then add the ferts so you will remove any unused ferts so the algae can't to help prevent algae problems. With that said, some species of algae can be good and a sign of a healthy system, however, the aquarium is still a closed system and manual removal will still be needed on occasion.

Remember-some products/additives used in the tank can cause skewed test results. Have a base line with your source water with and without these products so you don't make unneeded water changes based on skewed results.

Tanks:
1-4gal without a filter or live plants
Twice weekly-1-50% water only and 1-100%

1-4gal with a filter
Twice weekly-1-50% water only and 1-50% with substrate cleaning by vacuum or stir and dip method.
Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month.

1-4gal with/without filter and with live plants-
This can vary based on number, specie and growth state of the plants. Generally with live plants even without a filter you don't want to make 100% water changes.

5-9gal without a filter
Once weekly 50% with vacuum-with 90-100% monthly

5-9gal with a filter
Weekly 50% with vacuum
Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month.

5-9gal with/without filter and with live plants
This can vary based on number, specie and growth state of the plants. Generally with live plants even without a filter you don't want to make 100% water changes.

10+gal without a filter
Once weekly 50% with vacuum and 90-100% as needed based on stocking

10+gal with a filter
Weekly 50% with vacuum
Filter media needs a swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of times a month.


10+gal with/without filter and with live plants
This can vary based on number, specie and growth state of the plants. Generally with live plants even without a filter you don't want to make 100% water changes.

You want to vacuum in all areas you can reach without moving anything or disruption of plant roots. It is best not to move decorations around-but if you need to or you want to change things around-Be sure and vacuum well under items-you may or may not need to make 2 back to back water changes in order to get the excess mulm/debris buildup under items.
If you do-don't clean the filter media or clean the non-viewing walls-especially in cycled tanks to prevent min-cycle/spikes.

When you vacuum-Unplug both the filter and heater-Then plunge the vacuum deep into the substrate and as the mulm/debris clear in a second or two-move and repeat.
You will not get all the mulm/debris and this is okay-Once you refill with like temp dechlorinated water and turn the filter back on the water should clear within the hour-even without a filter the water should clear. If not, you either missed a water change, over feeding or overstocked.

It is best to leave the Betta in the tank with partial water changes.
When making 100% water changes and you cup the Betta-be sure and properly acclimate back to the new chemistry like you do with a new Betta-By adding small amounts of the new tank water to the holding container over 10-15min or to tolerance-Net and add to the tank without adding the holding containers water.
Be sure and have some extra dechlorinated water on hand to use for top offs if needed.

Too clean can sometimes be as bad as too dirty-We all know what too dirty can do-but too clean and too many water changes especially 100% water changes can be stressful, disrupt the balance of the good and bad bacteria/pathogens and antibody development. Its hard for life to be maintained in too clean and sterile conditions.

I am not saying to not make water changes-what I am saying is that this species doesn't produce the amount of byproduct that you think and removal of all the organics in the tank too often can disrupt the balance and by removing all the bad you are removing the good that helps to keep the bad controlled.....Balance.....

Remember-to always wash hand well before and after working on your tank/Betta. And to unplug both the heater and filter...Safety for both you and your wet-pet.....​
 
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#63 ·
Great sticky Thanks! I think I too often default to 'too clean' with my 10g planted tanks.
 
#64 ·
is there any real use in reusing water from a cycled tank in order to remove all the detrius from the bottom? my 5g divided is cycled with 2 betta on either side. i have a nerite on the filter side and he's a bit messy. before when i did WC i had to change 3-4g of water to get most of the detrius and waste out of the gravel. it probably made the fins fragile and my VT had some tears a dew days after.

i just did a 2g wc but i bottled the water i removed and put 80% back into the tank while the rest of the water and detrius went to the toilet. i did another round of gravel vac and put back another 80% of the water until 80-90% of the detrius was removed from the gravel. i probably removed 1/3 g of the old water before i drained the 2 gallons i replaced for the tank. does anyone do this and is this even a good way to clean up after a snail/fish tank?
 
#65 ·
The beneficial bacteria are sticky and adhere to all the surface areas within the tank, in the top layer of the substrate and in the filter media...very little is in the water column itself and so removing all the water shouldn't hurt the cycle, however, you usually don't need to make 100% water changes anyway.

Too clean can be as bad as too dirty....you don't have or need to try and remove all the mulm/debris from the tank-some of this can be good and will help to feed good bacteria to help maintain the balance-By removing all the slow growing good bacteria can allow the faster growing bad bacteria to take over. Not to mention antibody development and stress of total water changes and/or cupping, osmotic shock...etc.....
 
#66 · (Edited)
Thank You very much ofl. I do Finder the nerite very useful for algea centrów but he poops everywhere and it doesnt look very Nice at All. That was the reason why I try to remove as much as possible. I'll try to leave some of the detritus in the tank next water change.

The reason why I did near 100wc was to remove the detrius. I know better now than to have the water too clean.
 
#68 ·
Not that I have ever found, however, surface area is just one of the limiting factors with BB-you also have oxygen and food source. Once it dehydrates its dead.
As for 100% water changes...you can change out all the water-but I wouldn't over clean the filter media or clean non-viewing walls the same day...you could vacuum in all areas you could reach without moving anything.

When I had my Oscars-I did 100% plus water changes on their 75gal tank. I would vacuum the substrate-removing the water all the way down to the point that they would be sideways. Refill to near 75% and do it again on a weekly basis......Oscars are messy, messy fish...lol.....Some of the massive water change was more for them than water quality...They love to play in the fresh water as it was flowing in. Oscars are puppy dog like in some of their behaviors but at 10 inches. You can't have live plants with them or I never could..lol....they would dig them up and tear them to shreds. If I put something in their tank they didn't like...I would find it laying on the floor next to the tank-Sadly, they out grew the 75gal and I re-homed them after the first spawn-otherwise I would still have them...really cool fish...Anyway....even with these massive water changes I never seen any spikes in water prams. I don't make 100% water changes with my Betta-but I also have lots of live plants.
 
#69 ·
Thanks for the information, and the Oscars sound like so much fun! Too big for my limited spaces, but if I ever have a larger tank...I may have to try these guys out. :)

Good to know about the surface area. I've never actually cleaned the filter media and all the sponges attached to the filter...it never seemed to be particularly grubby, so I've just left it alone. Of course, these tank set ups are only a couple of months old as well, so that's probably a lot of it.

Now I just need to tackle plants. Really, really easy plants. ;) I've heard that duckweed is very easy to grow and doesn't need much care, does it do a fair job towards assisting in water quality? Are there any plants in particular that are better than others for assisting in filtering/cleaning?

Thanks again for the information!
 
#73 ·
If your 10g has no live plants it is recommended to do 50% weekly, which includes vacuuming of the substrate... water quality is the most important thing for a fish, for their health. In time it can cause different problems, can promote different things such as fungus and bacteria that attacks the fish (such as fin rot).

The OP is very knowledgeable in the proper recommendations of water changes, would follow the advice given for your set up to ensure a better chance for a healthy, long living fish. :)
 
#74 · (Edited)
Thank you! I was told only to do 25% by a Petsmart associate and I've been doing that since:-( I realise from this forum that Petsmart associates are not reliable. My poor buddy. Today is his water change i will do 50% from now on.

Do you happen to know a good water conditioner? I use Tetra Aquasafe Plus... but I feel like i could get something better

Also, how long are you supposed to wait before adding the new water after putting the conditioner?
 
#75 ·
Thanks for taking the time to type all of that up! It is a big help to first time owners like me!
 
#76 ·
Hi all! I have just joined as I plan to very soon add a little fishy friend to my family. This information has been wonderfully helpful! Thanks so much.

One question: this is the first I've heard of the "stir and dip method." What is that exactly?

Thanks so much!
 
#77 · (Edited)
The stir and dip method is sometimes used for the smaller tanks that are hard to vacuum or when you don't have a vacuum to use or with lightly planted tanks with inert substrate.

What I do-I use chopsticks or anything will work to stir the inert substrate a bit to bring some of the mulm/debris up into the water column. Then using a cup-dip half the water out of the tank.
If you have a filter-turn this off before you start-as well as unplug the heater for any water change.
Refill
Once refilled-the tank should clear within the hour-you can't and don't want to remove all the mulm/debris-some is good for the system.
If the tank doesn't clear within the hour-you either missed a weekly water change, overstocked or overfeeding.
 
#79 ·
Now I see where people are getting all these new water change suggestions.. nice :)

The only one my tests would have any contradiction to is the 5g. I do 100% weekly in mine or I see as much as .5ppm ammonia by day 7. I also keep bare bottom and suck up all poo with a turkey baster. I've never done a 50% change at that point and continued but if it reaches that high in 7 days in another 7 with only 50% change it's going to be exponentially higher.
 
#80 ·
Ofl i just want to make sure i understand how to change the water. I have a 2 1/2 gallon tank for my betta. So i need to take half his water out but leave him in the tank ? Then i gradually add the new treated water to his tank every few minites? Do i take his rocks out or do i transefer him to another holding cell?
 
#83 · (Edited)
So in that tank size you need 2 changes a week - one 50% and one 100%.

This is how I do large water changes:

To do a water change, use a little cup like a plastic solo cup - this cup must be only for him and have never been used with soap or other chems. Scoop him up in this cup (keep him in the cup about 1/4 full of water - it doesn't need to be much because he won't be in it for long) and leave him in the cup while you change his water. To do the 50% use a turkey baster - dedicated only to him that has never seen soap or chems - and drag it through the gravel and try to suck as much of the poop out as possible, in addition to 50% of the water. Use a thermometer under the running tap to get it to be the same temp as the water that is normally in his tank. When the thermometer says the flowing tap is the right temp, fill back up his tank. At this point, add the conditioner (dose for how much water you change - if you change half the water you add half gallon worth of conditioner, If you do a 100% water change dose for the full gallon change). Float his plastic cup with him in it in the new water. Slowly add a couple tablespoons of the new water into his cup every 10 minutes for at least an hour. Finally, dump him in gently but try to get as little of the old cup water back into the tank as possible. When you do the weekly 100% you will do mostly the same thing except empty his tank fully and rinse everything in it very well under warm water but never use soaps or chemicals. Once it's fully cleaned/rinsed you can refill it and repeat the cup/acclimate phase.
100% needs to include a thorough rinsing of all gravel and decor.

ETA: Unless your house is remaining a constant 80F+ (meaning not even dips at night) he needs a heater. Also the stick on thermometers are pretty inaccurate so I suggest getting one of those glass in tank ones. Also watch that decor.. IDK what's up with it if anything, but I've seen multiple people on these forums posting the paint on that thing started bubbling and then their betta came down with dropsy soon after.
 
#84 ·
In a 2.5gal unfiltered-without live plants-Using the stir and dip method-twice weekly...1-50% and 1-90-100% to maintain water quality-provided that you don't overfeed and remove uneaten food within a reasonable time.

IMO/E-you don't need to remove everything on a weekly bases or even remove the Betta for water changes-Carefully dip out the water after you stir the substrate slightly for the 90-100%. Every month, I would cup the fish and dump everything if you felt the need, however, IMO/E that isn't needed that often either-unless you overfeed or your water doesn't clean within an hour after a water change.

This is a copy/paste from an earlier post I made:
The stir and dip method is sometimes used for the smaller tanks that are hard to vacuum or when you don't have a vacuum to use or with lightly planted tanks with inert substrate.

What I do-I use chopsticks or anything will work to stir the inert substrate a bit to bring some of the mulm/debris up into the water column. Then using a cup-dip half the water out of the tank.
If you have a filter-turn this off before you start-as well as unplug the heater for any water change.
Refill
Once refilled-the tank should clear within the hour-you can't and don't want to remove all the mulm/debris-some is good for the system.
If the tank doesn't clear within the hour-you either missed a weekly water change, overstocked or overfeeding
 
#85 ·
Just a quick question, not really urgent but would definitely help in the future. Currently all three of my tanks are 3.9 gallons, unfiltered, and I do one 50% and one 100% water change weekly, with a couple of live plants attached to hidey-holes and driftwood. I notice you've said with live plants you generally don't want to do 100% changes. Are those changes that I've been doing bad for the plants?

Secondly, I'm planning to do a huge overhaul of all three tanks in the next couple of months, introducing quite a few live plants to each, including loads more anubias (multiple varieties hopefully), fontinalis and water sprite (which I already have, but more of it). I have bare-bottom tanks for ease of cleaning, and plan to keep it that way, with all plants attached to hardscape.

What water change schedule would you recommend for that setup?

Thanks in advance for any advice given! ^.^
 
#86 ·
If the plants are thriving-I would make 1-2 50% weekly water changes. Its up to the plants IME- As long as they are thriving and you see active growth-they are using byproducts in the tank to keep the water filtered to maintain your water quality. The more active growing plants the less water changes you need-but at least 1-50% weekly....
 
#88 ·
I just stared up my 50 gal tank. 10 fish no plants yet, marineland emperor biowheel filter. How many changes would you suggest? I do plan on getting some live plants how many would you suggest and can i add a few more fish? And how much would those additions alter my change schedual?
 
#89 ·
In a 50gal cycled with a few live plants-stocked with 10 fish-50% with vacuum weekly.

During the nitrogen cycle.

If you have a test kit on hand-monitor water prams daily and make 50% water only with test results of ammonia, nitrite 0.25ppm or greater and 50% with vacuum in all areas you can reach without moving anything or disruption of plant roots every week-this is the water change you will do for the life of the tank to maintain water quality once the nitrogen cycle has established.

If you don't have a test kit on hand-make the 50% water only between the 50% with vacuum to be safe. You also will want to make a 50% water only anytime you see abnormal fish behavior, fish death, removal of a sick fish as a general rule.
 
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