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Ammonia test strips?

1K views 22 replies 7 participants last post by  SnowySurface 
#1 ·
Are ammonia test strips a total waste of money? I have the API Master kit but since I am cycling I am testing at least once a day. The levels are always high! Also has anyone tried the ammonia meters? I would use either in addition to the drop test, I am just being OCD since every time I test I have to do a water change! I have been doing at least 30% changes once a day :-(
 
#2 ·
Oh! And incase it helps I have two male bettas. Both in their own tanks. One is in a 6.8 gallon and the other in a 4 gallon. Both have plants and filters. I am almost a week into the cycle in the 4 gallon, only on day 2 of the 6.8 gallon.
 
#3 ·
Oh, the joys of cycling a tank!! I feel your pain. When you say levels are high, how high are we talking? If you are doing a fish in cycle you should be testing once daily preferably around the same time each day. I would stick with the liquid test, some people swear by the in tank ammonia detector, its just not something I'm comfortable relying on. How long have you been cycling?
 
#4 ·
The 6.8 only a few days the 4 gallon is a week in. The 4 gallon tests at a 1 almost every time. I have been testing and doing 25-30% changes daily :(. I was just wondering if I should test more than once a day wince I seem to be having such an issue or get the meter. Then I can do multiple checks per day.
 
#8 ·
How many critters are in that tank? Then I have to ask are you over feeding to the point there is food left behind to cause this ammonia.

You have fish in a tank that keeps spiking with ammonia? Can you get some live plants?

Poop causes ammonia too, but well lots of people keep bettas in tanks that you would have a hard time believing ever cycle, the size of them, lack of filtration, etc. and with daily water changes these tanks don't usually have ammonia spikes. That's just a point to be made, not that I would ever keep my bettas in anything less than a 3 gallon, but many do.

How much do you feed?
 
#10 ·
Like I said only one fish in each tank, both tanks have live plants (listed how many and what types also). In the larger tank I have two baby rabbit snails also (only under an inch long each). I think the issue is the excess food. They are both new fish (within a week) so they prob aren't eating yet, or at least I haven't seen them eat. I have been giving each 3 pieces of the New Life Spectrum Betta food. The snails I only have not fed yet b/c I just got them yesterday and they haven't even come out of their shells yet LOL! Gonna try a slice of cucumber tomorrow AM.
 
#11 ·
So should I not bother getting the strips or meter and just continue to do the drop test a few times a day? And maybe feed less? I just feel like I am testing 2-3 times a day and a strip or meter I could do more often for piece of mind...I would still do the drop test once a day to be safe since I know they are more accurate.
 
#14 ·
I'm not an expert at cycling by any means, but if it was me with high ammonia, I'd try some of the bottled bacteria stuff just because it'll (if it works) immediately cycle your tanks, and then you won't have to worry about your high ammonia water.

I've used the API Quick Start with good success (just follow package directions) and only buy a small bottle because it's only good for a couple of days after you open it. (the bottle says it's good for longer, but that's just crap. The BB's are dead after 48hrs of opening.) The Dr. Tim's One and Only is also recommended, along with the Seachem Stability (I believe...it's the Seachem one for cycling a tank.). You could try any of them.

Beyond that, just to save your poor fishies, if you still want to do the fish-in regular cycle, what about purchasing those 5 gallon jugs of filtered water? Or if you have a filter at home that removes ammonia (most do, but check) then you could do that. Bottled water isn't great for them because it lacks minerals, but it's better than high ammonia well water, and it's not forever. Just until you get your tanks cycled. :) Once you're cycled, your good to go because the cycle will take care of the ammonia in your well/tap water. :)

I hope that helps, and good luck to you!! :)
 
#18 ·
I'm not an expert at cycling by any means, but if it was me with high ammonia, I'd try some of the bottled bacteria stuff just because it'll (if it works) immediately cycle your tanks, and then you won't have to worry about your high ammonia in water.
It won't immediately cycle it but it is a big help at avoiding spikes. Dr. Tims only and only is said to be the best with tetra safestart being one of the better store bought brands. Safestart helped me along with nitrites in around 24 hours
 
#15 ·
Thanks so much! I have been using the Stability and also Prime already....just hope I can get them though the cycle.

Oh and sorry for the double post...I just made another one before I saw your response and couldn't figure out how to delete the new thread :(
 
#17 ·
You don't need to bother with bottled water IMO. Once the tank is fully cycled, which can take 8 wks give or take, the .5 in your source water won't be a factor. If it were me I would do 50%+ water changes when your tank ammonia is at 1, this will drop it to .5, the Prime will detox that no problem until your next water change. Test once daily, do a 50%+ water change daily if need be. Don't stress over it all too much.
 
#19 ·
Thanks everyone...I will do the 50% water changes everyday and Prime every day until things are under control. I may do half bottled water (just got home with it) for my changes today esp for the 4 gallon b/c that fish deff seems stressed. :(

I have the Stability bacteria supplement, but where do you get Dr. Tims? Does Petsmart or Petco carry it or should I look online?
 
#20 ·
#21 ·
I was debating replying to this thread because I only have experience with fishless cycling, but you seem worried. So I wanted to let you know that the ammonia you are seeing is natural (in more ways than one since its present in your tap water). The ammonia spikes mean you have entered the ammonia-to-nitrITE step which involves the presence of ammonia in your set up.

Fish-in cycling is a balancing act because you can't take out so much ammonia that the ammonia-to-nitrITE step is halted, but you can't leave in enough ammonia to kill fish. There will be no "peace of mind" for you until the ammonia-to-nitrITE step finishes and the nitrITE-to-nitrATE step begins. You will need a nitrATE test kit to see when the nitrATEs have begun to grow because that is the time to slow up the water changes to about 25% once a week.

I repeat. The ammonia you see is a sign that you are doing it right. Everything is doing what it is supposed to do. For now, you are at the point where you keep ammonia low at about 0.1-0.2ppm to protect the fish and above 0ppm to feed the nitrITEs. Until enough nitrITEs become nitrATEs to keep the ammonia down at 0ppm without the help of chemicals, you are stuck baby-sitting the set up.

But don't lose heart. The ammonia-to-nitrITE step can be as quick as 1-2 weeks. It's the nitrITE-to-nitrATE step that takes nearly a month. XD
 
#22 ·
Thanks! I just did a 50% change with the bottled water in the tank with the fish who seems stressed (4 gallon). He is perking up a bit so hope I helped and didn't hurt him more. In the larger tank (6.8 gallon) I just added more Prime and will probably only do a 25% change later since he seems fine and the ammonia is lower.

I just hope my fish make it though the cycle. If I ever do this again I will be planning on a no fish cycle! This is very stressful for me especially with now knowing my tap water has ammonia in it to begin with :(
 
#23 ·
Yeah. When you do a fishless cycle you can cut the ammonia-to-nitrITE step in half by over dosing with ammonia. I've upped the ammonia to 4.0ppm to fast-forward into the slower nitrITE-to-nitrATE step. Even if you can only half the natural ammonia levels in your water to 0.25ppm your fish should be fine. Then, once the tank is cycled, you won't have to worry about your tap water because the BB will remove the 0.5ppm ammonia for you. :)
 
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