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Nitrogen cycle-Betta specific

76K views 165 replies 58 participants last post by  Arnold 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Establishing the nitrogen cycle doesn't have to be something to fear or be overly complicated.

The filtered tank will cycle without you doing anything, however, since the process takes time to complete- if you don't make water changes the high levels of ammonia and nitrite can kill the Betta...But wait-you are going to make water changes anyway....RIGHT.....
So, you have been cycling your filtered tank with your Betta this whole time and didn't know it....See how easy that was......

Establishing the nitrogen cycle for the Betta in 1gal-10gal filtered tank can be safely completed with a healthy Betta with or without testing products.....provided that you make the needed water changes......

No matter what container you have your Betta in...You will need to make water changes due to the byproducts produced.....
The difference when cycling is that you are growing beneficial bacteria that can help keep the water safer with limited water changes once established.

Since the filtered tank is a closed system-you still have to make water changes.
Nothing leaves the tank until you remove it manually with the water change, however, once the nitrogen cycle is established-the BB can convert the most harmful byproduct (ammonia) to a less harmful byproduct(nitrate).....

You don't want to base water change needs on water test alone-due to the DOC's (dissolved organic compounds) that can be harmful when they buildup to high levels.

You can establish the nitrogen cycle in 1-4gal filtered tanks, however, due to limited surface area the cycle might not be stable and twice weekly water change will be needed to maintain water quality.

You don't have to have water test kit on hand to safely establish the nitrogen cycle for the Fish-in cycle method with a single Betta in a small filtered tank, however, having one can take the guess work out of the game...Plus, its a good idea to know how to properly run water prams test, understand what they mean, how they interact, what to do with test results and its really good overall to have this knowledge base for fish keeping in general and you can look cool and impress your friends....

Sadly, due to the cost of a freshwater master test kit-sometimes we can't always afford one and this is when you can take your water to the pet shop for a Free test-Just always get numbers-don't accept "Fine" or "Okay" and find out what type of test product they used too-watch them do it if you can.....


Understanding the beneficial bacteria:
The beneficial bacteria (BB) you are colonizing for the nitrogen cycle are self limiting. What this means-you can only grow a colony large enough based on-
Food source-byproducts from anything organic-like the Betta, fish food, live plants, shrimp, snails...etc....
Oxygen-when the water flow from the filter disrupts the surface you have gas exchange
Surface area-all areas inside the tank-like the walls, decorations, plants-both real and fake, in the top layer of the substrate and in the filter media.

The BB are sticky and adhere to all the surface areas within the tank-very little are in the water column itself.

The BB are alive..and many things can kill or slow the BB growth/colonizing.
Like dehydration, suffocation, chlorine/chloramines and some medications
If the BB dry up they die
If they are buried in mulm/debris that limits access to dissolved oxygen they can suffocate.
If the filter is turned off longer than 6 hours the BB will start to die
Both chlorine and chloramine will kill the BB
Many different medications will kill the BB
With pH 6 and less the BB can't colonize

It is important to vacuum the substrate in all areas that can be reached without moving anything or disruption of plant roots- at least weekly to keep the mulm/debris from suffocating the BB
It is important to rinse/swish the filter media in old tank water or fresh dechlorinated water a couple of times a month to maintain good water flow to the BB. The filter media should look dirty-this is normal and good.


The fishless cycle is intended for community tanks-this method was developed so that you could safely fully stock large tanks. Since we are only stocking our smaller filtered tanks with a single Betta and maybe some shrimp and/or snails. The Fishless method isn't always needed.

The Process:

Once you setup your tank and properly acclimate the Betta.

Your first water change should start on or about day 3 and schedule the second weekly from that point.....

In a 1gal-4gal filtered tank-without live plants:
Water changes of twice weekly 50%...1-50% water only and 1-50% to include the substrate by vacuum or stir and dip method.
Filter media needs swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of time a month
*The long term care and established cycle care will be the same on 1-4gal filtered tanks.

In 5gal-10gal filtered without live plants:
Water changes of twice weekly for the next 4-6 weeks
Of... 1-50% water only and 1-50% with vacuum in all areas you can reach without moving anything or disruption of plant roots.
*The 50% with vacuum will be the water change schedule for the life of the system to maintain water quality once the nitrogen cycle has established.
Filter media needs swish/rinse in old tank water a couple of time a month

*If you have water test kit-base the water only change on: ammonia, nitrite 0.25ppm or greater.
With a low bioload often you don't need the second water only-I always recommend it when you don't have test kit to err on the side of caution...its the safety net....

Live plants can change the cycling process as well, however, you have to have enough of the right species of plants that are actively growing.
Not all plants can use enough of the byproducts fast enough to help keep the water safe for the Betta.

Using lots of fast growing stem plants and floating plant you will have a silent cycle. The active plant growth can use the ammonia before conversion and it can take a long time if ever to see the nitrate reading we look for to tell us cycling stages/completeness.

With enough of the right species plants that are in active growth can also decrease water change needs in 1-4gal filtered tanks to 50% weekly.

*Remember-some additives can change or skew water prams results-
Like some dechlorinator products can change ammonia to ammonium so its not harmful to the Betta-but, live plants and BB can still use it as a food source to colonize.
Some plant foods can cause false readings in ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
Its not uncommon to have ammonia, nitrite and nitrate in the source water
When using test kits-they test at a ppm level (parts per million) so you will always have some ammonia in the water at very low levels that can be used by the beneficial bacteria.

Once the nitrogen cycle has established your water prams should read:
Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Nitrate 5-10ppm ideally...You want to keep this under 40ppm
pH-can vary- Betta can adapt to most source water pH without issue and use of chemical to altar the pH should be avoided-except in rare cases......
 
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#73 ·
I thoroughly cleaned my tank and decorations yesterday and about 8 hours ago I refilled it and added a couple drops of ammonia to start a fishless cycle. Referring back to my original post on here, this is my first tank and due to some misinformation by Petsmart my first Betta died in three days :( From the good people on here I learned to cycle my tank first and to purchase the API Mater test kit. I just did the tests just to see and I'm wondering how can my results be so good? Am I testing to early? should I have waited 24 hours? It looks like the ammonia is on the .25 side, PH test was 7.6, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?
 
#74 · (Edited by Moderator)
katmandew-why don't you start a new thread on your fishless cycle if you haven't already and add-Tank size, substrate, additives used, type of filter, live plants-if any and if you do plan on live plants-include light info and number/species of plants and finial stocking plan.
Date started, ammonia source, type of testing products and a base line water prams on your source water-with and without the normal additives you use.

I will watch for your new thread....
 
#77 ·
thank you so much! I suddenly don't feel totally in the dark about caring for my betta in his planted 1 gallon tank. Which plants do you recommend to neutralize/convert ammonia. I need them to be effective in my tank!
 
#82 ·
I get the same way but I am determined to do things the right. I lost my first fish in three days due to lack of knowledge and very poor information from Petsmart. I'm so happy I found this site, it's been very helpful! Seeing just the slight changes while cycling makes me happy and excited! This is one of the first times I've used what little patience I have lol!!
 
#83 ·
I get the same way but I am determined to do things the right. I lost my first fish in three days due to lack of knowledge and very poor information from Petsmart. I'm so happy I found this site, it's been very helpful! Seeing just the slight changes while cycling makes me happy and excited! This is one of the first times I've used what little patience I have lol!!

I'm sorry about the loss of your first finned baby! Good luck with the fishless cycling. If I hadn't already bought flotsom I would have gone that route too! Keep us posted!
 
#86 · (Edited by Moderator)
How long has the tank been setup, tank size, number of livestock, number and species of live plants, if any, water temp, type of filter and filter media care, how much and how often on the water changes and additives used.

With the API nitrate test-be sure and shake, bang on the table and shake some more on the #2 reagent-it tend to settle and can give false results-Also, follow the time line on shaking between drops and reading results to the "T" to avoid user error.
 
#87 ·
Help please...

As I get closer to the end of cycling my 5 gallon tank I want to make sure I’m doing this right. I’ll try not to be long winded but please let me know if the following are the steps I should follow.

Once the ammonia disappears within 24 hours and the testing reads:
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates <20
My PH has remained steady at 7.6 (Is this too high for a Betta?)

Do a 50% water change
Rinse filter pad in used water
I’m replacing the carbon with a sponge, rinse in used water
Treat the new water with Prime using enough to condition the whole tank (1/2 mL)
Let it run overnight and test, if everything is good I can then add a Betta

Adding a Betta
Pour out 10% of the water in the cup and add in tank water, wait 5 minutes
Pour out 25% of the water, add in tank water, wait 5 minutes
Pour out 50% of the water, add in tank water, wait 5 minutes
Fish is ready to be placed in the tank. Do I put the fish in with the water in the cup or just net the fish and put it in?

Weekly 25% water changes with gravel vacuuming
Monthly rinsing of the filter media in used water
Please let me know if all the above steps are correct. One other thing, even though I have my filter baffled with a plastic bottle there is still enough current on top to move food around. Is it safe to turn off the filter when I feed the fish? I have bio-gold pellets and freeze dried bloodworms for a snack. Any help is appreciated :)
 
#92 ·
First of all, just want to say thank you for yet another extremely informative thread!

I'm currently doing a fish-in cycle on two tanks (and a fishless in a third, but anyway)... I was just wondering if you had any recommendations for stem plants to help with water quality for a 3.9 gallon tank that has low lighting (with the intention of upgrading lighting eventually)?

I currently have water sprite and duckweed floating - just added the duckweed but the water sprite has grown considerably since I first got it - but am interested in stem plants too, as I don't want to block off all light to the rest of the plants with floaters. My substrate is only gravel, so would stem plants even grow in that environment? I do dose Flourish with water changes if that changes how they'll grow.

Thank you so much!
:)
 
#95 ·
I would love to get some advice too. :) I am trying for a fish in cycle. Here is my info.

5 gallon filtered tank w/ heater at about 78 degrees
I have 2 elodia plants, a java fern and one other plant I'm not sure what it is.
I did put some ATM Colony in the tank to help jump start my cycle. Water prams on day one, testing with API master test kit:

7.4 ph
ammonia: .25ppm
nitrites: 0
nitrates: 0

What I would like help with is figuring out how often/how much for water changes since I do have live plants in a filtered 5 gallon tank. Also, when i do a water change would it be helpful for me to add more of the Colony to the water? Thank you for your advice!
 
#96 · (Edited by Moderator)
What is the ATM....not sure I know what that is.

How many days has the tank been running-what kind of filter, other additives used, how are the plants doing so far, what kind of lights do you have-age of bulbs, kelvin, watts and photoperiod-To understand-the only livestock is a single Betta...correct...

What are the base line results on your source water-Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH- both with and without additives. What is the source water-well water, city tap water and do you have a water softener unit hooked up to the house and if so, can you bypass it if it is the type that uses salt.
 
#97 ·
ATM colony was the brand of bacteria I used. http://reviews.petco.com/3554/11877...water-aquarium-supplement-reviews/reviews.htm

We have had the tank for about 3 weeks but the last fish we had died so we just emptied this one and cleaned it out really well a couple days ago. I use Stresscoat for my water conditioner. So far the plants are very healthy, but they are new. The lighting is a 15w incandescent light bulb in the light hood. The bulb is only 3 weeks old, but hasn't been used much until now.

Water: Source is city tap water. The water baseline info is ph 7.0 ammonia .25, nitrite 0, nitrate 0. It is the same baseline with the stresscoat in it. Afert adding the atm colony to the water the ph was 7.4, ammonia was 0 or close to it, nitrite 0, nitrate 0. We don't have a water softener for our house.
 
#98 · (Edited by Moderator)
Its not uncommon to see pH changes as the water naturally gasses off-Its a gradual change and usually will not cause any problems for Betta.

Do you know the color temp on the bulb-or kelvin-the color temp is what is important for plant growth.

Since you have ammonia in the source water to start-you might need to look into a dechlorinator that has an ammonia neutralizer in it-like Prime-Once the beneficial bacteria get established it should take care of the ammonia in the source water-as well as the active plant growth, however, a few plants usually will not help that much-but they will help some-especially once they get established and start actively growing.

Right now-I would get some Prime or product like it and make weekly water changes of 50% with vacuum in all places you can reach without moving anything or disruption of plant roots-Its hard to advise on a second water only due to the ammonia in the source water to start-otherwise I would recommend a second one based on water pram results until you see nitrate. I would base the need of a second water only change on the fish behavior.

Personally, I feel the cycle starter products are a waste of time and money, however, I don't think they hurt anything either.
 
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