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Step-by-Step Nitrogen Cycle Guide and Fishless Cycling

51K views 169 replies 47 participants last post by  Hallyx 
#1 ·
Woo, what a long time in the making. First of all, a huge WOOP to Sakura for.. well everything she does, and for not rushing me on this, because I took my sweet time. I'd also like to thank my dear friend Hallyx, for all his input and cycling knowledge. We'd be no where on BettaFish without these two sweeties around. :-DAdditional thanks goes to Chesherca, for going through my work as well, making sure everything actually made sense to someone other than myself.

Things you will need:
- A filter (Hang-on-back (HOB) and sponge are most popular with betta)
- An ammonia source (this could be pure ammonia, fish food, raw shrimp, or even your fish, depending on the method you choose)
- Plants (if you plan on doing the planted method)
- A small oral syringe (meaning without a needle!) is useful when using pure ammonia, usually a 5mL size is best. These can be found in pet stores in the dog/cat section, or in pharmacies in the baby section, as they are used to measure out dog/cat/baby medicines. Only needed for pure ammonia method.
-Tank (and possibly bucket for a bucket cycle), substrate, decorations, all of which provide surface area for your bacteria to grow.
-A test kit for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. An API Master Test Kit gives the best value over the long run, but strips can also work fine.

About the Nitrogen Cycle:
There is tons of info on this, but I want to sum this up as briefly as possible. The nitrogen cycle is when you "grow" bacteria in your tank, on your filter and everything else in the tank. Fish produce ammonia, which is bad for them, it damages their bodies, causing burns and death. The bacteria consume the ammonia, and produce nitrite. Now, nitrite isn't any better and can do just as much damage as ammonia, so another type of bacteria consumes it to make nitrates. Nitrates are the last step of the cycle, and are much less toxic, but still hurt in the long run, which is why it's important to do weekly water changes of 30-50% in a cycled aquarium.

First Thing's First- The Method:
There are five distinct methods for properly cycling your tank that we'll be looking at in this article. Any of these methods will achieve the end-result of a fully-cycled tank, but only you can decide which will work best for your situation. You can safely cycle a tank of any size using the techniques listed here. Some people prefer not to cycle smaller tanks, instead relying on more frequent water changes to keep the water clean. However, if you plan to keep a larger tank of five to ten gallons or more, it will be necessary to cycle the tank for the health and safety of the fish who will be living there.

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#29 ·
Hi. I'm about two weeks into fish-in cycling and did several 25% water changes in a row (3 over 2 days) because my nitrites were scarily high (5 ppm, or as high as the test goes); I also added in Prime with two of those changes.

Right now, my ammonia is 0, my nitrites are .25, and my nitrates are 5 ppm. My last addition of Prime was about almost two days ago. I should do another water change now, right? The person at Petco told me I was messing up my cycle and to leave it alone, so I'm trying to be sure.
 
#30 ·
Yep, I would do another water change, you are almost done it would seem. :)

Yea, technically you are messing with it, but the fish in there is safer off that way. ^-^
 
#33 ·
This is great! I have a question, though:
I have a guppy that is in a two gallon bowl without a filter or a heater (none of my tanks have heaters, but they all stay at about 78 degrees). I did a 100 percent water change yesterday, so the water is all pretty new. I just now learned about cycling and I'm pretty sure my three tanks already are cycled without me even trying to do it (I've heard that this is pretty common.) The ammonia in my three filtered tanks stay at about 0.00ppm. Could I just add an extra piece of décor from one of my cycled tanks to cycle my new tank even though it doesn't have a filter? Thanks! And I am pretty sure that the female guppy in my bowl is pregnant, so I don't have any gravel. I've heard that this is best for when she gives birth, is this true? So even though I don't have gravel will I be able to cycle the tank? Thank you so much for all of this information!
 
#34 · (Edited)
If they're producing nitrate, your tanks are cycled.

You need a filter to cycle a tank; to keep the water circulating over the bacteria. It would help to have more than a piece of decor to help kickstart the new cycle. Try putting some established/cycled filter material or substrate in your new filter.

Bare-bottom tanks cycle just as easilly as ones with substrate. The key is to have enough filter foam or other surface area to house the nitrifying bacteria. It really doesn't take all that much.

Leaf litter (Oak or Indian Almond, etc) makes an excellent substrate for fry.. Lots of infusoria for first-food.
 
#35 ·
Thanks, Hallyx!
 
#36 ·
Thanks for the info! I've read so many different guides on cycling that I have no idea if I have done anything right. One site said that a tank smaller than 5 gallons can't be cycled. I have a 1.5 gallon with a filter, live plant and one betta. I'm not sure what the plant is but I think it might be an Amazon? My fish was rescued after being left in an empty house for several days. He was in a tiny bowl that probably held about 5 cups of water, no filter and only plastic plants. The 1.5 gallon tank came with a filter, pump, cover and light which was all I could afford at the time. I put in some of the gel marbles out of his old bowl but everything else was new. I used spring water to fill his tank and he has done remarkably well. I read that water conditioner isn't necessary when using spring water. He wouldn't eat for the first couple of days, except for a flake or two of tropical food, but now eats two pellets twice a day. I have been doing 25 to 30% water changes twice a week, also with spring water. He builds big bubble nests and knows my voice.
I don't have a water test kit and was wondering if there is a good, relatively inexpensive kit you could recommend. I have a TDS meter, but nothing to tell the amounts of ammonia, nitrites or nitrates. Also, his plant is in crushed granite with marbles covering the rest of the tank floor. It's got a few brown leaves and some of the leaf tips are turning brown. Should I remove the dead leaves? What can I do to keep this plant from dying? Also, on another site I read that some of the old filter should be added when changing to a new filter. Is that something you would recommend?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks :)
 
#37 ·
A 1.5g tank can be cycled, but it requires close monitoring with a liquid test kit, especially if you're going to try cycling with the fish in the tank.

Most keepers who run such small tanks either perform 2x weekly water changes or become familiar with plants, enough to maintain a "planted tank." In combination with a filter, this is the safest method for your fish and, although more work, is a satisfying part of the hobby for many.

Good plants for a small tank are fast-rowing rooted plants and floating plants. Check the "planted tank" section for more detailed info.

The plant you have is probably an Anubias, right?....a very pretty low-light plant, but not much help keeping ammonia under control.
 
#38 ·
I agree that a testing kit is needed. I'm not saying that I liked forking over the $30 that it was, but I'm happy that I got it.
 
#39 ·
alright, so i was just going to make a new post but you know what? no I will post my question here. I feel like its been asked a million times before, I've seen the answer somewhere and yet clearly now I am losing my mind and can't find it. SO.
During the fishless cycle, I understand that if the nitrATES get too high, it can stall the cycle and a water change is necessary. What is that amount? I ask because I am in the middle of a fishless cycle using fish food. I am 2 weeks in. My readings using the API Master test kit are as follows:
Ammo: 0-0.25ppm
nitrITES: 5+ ppm
nitrATES: 40 ppm
Should I do a water change to get the nitrates down or should i leave them?
Thanks in advance!
 
#41 ·
"High" nitrates stall the cycle?? How so?

Nitrates are the final result of the cycle, so if they are being produced that means that everything is intact and functioning as it should.


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#43 ·
Was 40, now it's 80 :) what's so significant about a week?

Any empirical evidence? Or a link to some anecdotal evidence?

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#45 ·
WELL i did the 50% water change and then redosed. today when I tested my readings were :
AMMO: 0-0.25PPM
nitRITES: 0-0.25 PPM
nitRATES:20PPM

:D Obviously the 50% water change worked! I am almost done my cycle. Thanks!
 
#46 ·
Obviously there is no such thing as 100% nitrate in solution. Somewhere along the way the nitrosomonas is going to slow its conversion of nitrite to nitrate. My reading online indicates the consensus is at 40/50ppm nitrate, this conversion slows down measurably.

I've personally observed that >6.0ppm ammonia and/or 5.0ppm nitrite will stall the cycle.
 
#47 ·
Yes, I agree with the latter, but not the former. The nitrates in my 125 are always over 40-50 ppm when I do a water change, yet there is never any measurable nitrite. I doubt any of the people involved in the consensus let their tanks nitrates get that high to begin with, for fear their tanks would explode. There is a TON of fear mongering when it comes to fish keeping. Many people just mindlessly repeat things that they read and present it as fact, giving no consideration to the credence of the source, which is often just some person parroting something that THEY read somewhere. It's rampant in this hobby, and it's a shame. It's a shame that people don't find things out for themselves.


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#48 ·
There is not time in a life to experiment, research and discover all "truths" for oneself. We rely on expert advice continually. It's always been like this; nor could we survive any other way.

In dealing with information, online or live, we soon learn what and whom to trust. If we don't ........
 
#50 ·
There is not time in a life to experiment, research and discover all "truths" for oneself.
Sure there is! tackle one at a time. Unless you are a senior citizen, one can expect to keep fish for decades. PLENTY of time to learn. Of course that's only if one has a desire to learn, which is not true of everyone.


Congratulations on finishing your cycle.

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#49 ·
I tested today and my cycle is complete! 0 ammo, 0 nitrites and 40 nitrates. Thank you again for the advice to do a water change. I am so happy!!!
 
#51 ·
Woohoo!! Good job!! Now do another water change cause you are looking to be at about 20ppm. No higher generally. Try to keep it there or lower. The only way to lower it is a water change.
 
#52 ·
question, I was doing a bucket cycle. Moving the filter to the new tank will take care of the nitrates right?
 
#53 ·
No, nitrates have to be removed with water changes. If the filter in the bucket is converting ammonia into nitrate, then it is cycled, and can be moved to a tank making the tank cycled. It will continue to convert ammonia into nitrate.


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#54 ·
Sorry lol I realized I did not word that properly. What I mean is, by moving the cycled filter to the new tank, the nitrate level should start from scratch correct? the level of nitrates in the bucket won't matter at that point?
 
#55 ·
Once you moved the filter, ammonia would stop being consumed and nitrates would stop being produced in the bucket, and would begin being produced in the new tank.
 
#56 ·
I have several tanks (2 29 gallon, 5 10 gallon, 5 gallon, 4 gallon, 2.5 gallon) and I've never paid attention to cycles or how to cycle. Is there a way to know if my tanks have already cycled? Both my 10 gallon sororities with live plants read 0 nitrites & 0 nitrates. I haven't really checked the others as I have plans to make them NPTs.
 
#57 ·
If at the end of a week without water changes you have 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites, then your tank is cycled. If you have to do frequent water changes to keep ammonia and nitrite levels down, then your tank is not cycled.

I would venture to say that many of the people that do these frequent water changes actually have cycled tanks, and they just don't know it.
 
#58 ·
Thank you jaysee. I'll have to test it. I do frequent water changes because I thought I should. I'll start testing the tank before hand and see what it says.
 
#59 ·
Most fish keepers don't change the water more than once a week. There's nothing wrong with doing water changes more frequently than that, as long as you are doing it because you want to. Some people enjoy making more work for themselves. But if you are doing 3 or 4 water changes a week because you're afraid your fish will die if you don't, then you ought to find out if your tank is cycled so that you know whether or not you actually need to maintain such a rigorous schedule.

Your tanks have filters? Hopefully you don't throw the filter media out every month, because that will cause problems with stability. I know they say to replace them, but it's really unnecessary. They just want you to buy more product. Sponges are the best mechanical media you can use - they last forever. All you need to do is periodically clean them, when you notice the water flow has been reduced. In addition to saving money, you will allow a strong established bacteria colony to grow that will make your tanks all but bulletproof.
 
#60 ·
I do frequent, 2-3 times weekly changes, because I thought I needed to for their health. I'm just now learning about cycled tanks and figured before I go and try to cycle my tanks I should find out if they had on their own first. Of course my fry tank will still get frequent water changes, but that's a different situation. I will definitely be testing my tanks to see if they have cycled. Not just to cute back on the work, but the water bill too. I use sponge filters by the way.

Would you mind me PMing you about cichlids? I noticed you have a few.
 
#61 ·
If your tanks have been set up for any length of time (at least a few months), and you do not toss out your media every month, I guarantee that they are cycled. It is just the natural order of things :) The only way they couldn't be is if you actively impeded their ability to grow by sanitizing everything all the time and regularly throwing out the media. That's what a lot of people seem not to understand.

PMs are always welcome.


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