Hi! I'm looking to get some basic advice on Betta care. I have had a few in the past, and have recently decided to get another. I haven't had one for awhile, so any advice is helpful. Here is a list of my current supplies:
10 gallon tank with the filter it came with and fluorescent lighting
Heater
Gravel
2 hiding logs
4 fake plants
Gravel Vacuum
Siphon
Water Conditioner
Ammonia Blocker formula and ammonia testing kit
Water conditioner
Scrub Brush
Net
I plan on getting:
Food
pH up and down plus a testing kit
More filter pads
Thermometer
Betta care book
Ok so I'm welcome to any advice but here are my base questions:
Should I get live plants for my betta?
Do basic aquarium filters make the water move too much for bettas?
What pH should my betta tank be at?
I was thinking of using a shrimp to cycle my tank, would this work and how long should I cycle my tank?
I was going to get some cory catfish to keep my betta company, what is the maximum I should put in the 10 gallon tank with my betta?
What is a good water change schedule for my tank size? (% and times per week)
What type of food should I get for my betta?
Does my betta need an air pump?
What are some other suggested supplies for bettas?
Can corys eat the same food as bettas and can they live in a heated tank?
Sorry for all the questions, don't feel obligated to answer them all, just toss in whatever advice you want to share!
Should I get live plants for my betta? Yes, if you're lighting is adequate.
Do basic aquarium filters make the water move too much for bettas? Depends... What type of filter? Long finned or short finned betta?
What pH should my betta tank be at? Ideally it would be slightly acidic, but they are very adaptable and it really doesn't matter much.
I was thinking of using a shrimp to cycle my tank, would this work and how long should I cycle my tank? The shrimp method isn't really suggested much anymore as it is very dirty... I would recommend a fish less cycle using pure ammonia or a fish in cycle with frequent testing.
I was going to get some cory catfish to keep my betta company, what is the maximum I should put in the 10 gallon tank with my betta? I would suggest pygmies or dainty cories for a ten gallon (though the big ones would work). You could easily fit 6-8 of the daintiest or pygmies.
What is a good water change schedule for my tank size? (% and times per week) Once cycled, 25% a week should be good.
What type of food should I get for my betta? Omega one betta buffet pellets or New Life Spectrum betta formula.
Does my betta need an air pump? No
What are some other suggested supplies for bettas?
Can corys eat the same food as bettas and can they live in a heated tank? I would provide a sinking food, and yes.
Yea... Your plan sounds pretty good. Don't worry about adjusting pH... You will probably cause more grief then what it's worth.
If your heater ---mounted horizontally at the bottom of the tank--- can keep your water temperature at 76* or more , all the time, then it will be fine.
That is a suitable filter. You can baffle it with AQ foam if the flow is too strong.
Use Prime water conditioner. Get the small bottle. I'll tell you what to do with it when it's almost empty.
Hi! I picked up my Betta and supplies today. I did not get prime, I got StressCoat+ (completely forgot about Prime, I'll go pick up a bottle). My betta is in a 1 gallon while I do a fishless ammonia cycle.
Here are my basic supplies:
StressCoat
API Master Test Kit
Clear Ammonia
New Life Spectrum Pellets
Omega One Freeze Dried Brine Shrimp
Omega One Freeze Dried Bloodworms
Extra Filter Cartridges
Betta Hamock
Net
Gravel, hideouts, etc.
Live plants
Aqueon Quiet Flow Power 10
Gravel Vacuum
Tank Brush
Thermometer
50w Heater
My question now is, will my betta be fine without a heater until his 10 gallon is fully cycled? My heater is too powerful for the 1 gallon. I was going to wait until the cycle was done to buy the betta, but there was this one betta that was just too beautiful to pass up also, would 50% water changes every other day work for the 1 gallon until the cycle is done? Thanks!
You could put the heater in a tub (or the 10 gal) with water and put his one gal inside that so the warm water from the tub/tank is heating his little tank
For a 10g tank, I highly recommend you perform a fish-in cycle, using the ammonia the fish produces to feed the bacteria. Test your tank with the API kit to determine your water change schedule. Keep the ammonia < 0.50ppm. (Fishless cycling is more appropriate for Betta sororities and communities where you introduce many or all the livestock at once.)
New Life Spectrum Pellets -- Betta formula or Thera A. Omega One Betta Buffet is also good.
Omega One Freeze Dried Brine Shrimp ---get frozen
Omega One Freeze Dried Bloodworms ---get frozen
Extra Filter Cartridges --won't be needed for a long time. Don;t replace filter media. Swish/rinse in old tank water every other weekly water change.
Betta Hamock --- get live floating plants. Floating Anubias is the best hammock I know of. Also provides shade and hides
Net --don't use a net with Betta. If you have to remove him, use the cup he came in. Lure him in with food.
Gravel, hideouts, etc. ---Use sand if you intend getting Corry or bottom fish
Live plants --Can't have too many. Check the Planted Betta Tank section for more suggestions
Aqueon Quiet Flow Power 10
Gravel Vacuum --smallest one you can find
Tank Brush --- no need for a brush. Use a credit card to scrape off algae and/or diatoms
Thermometer --- floating glass one is best
50w Heater
Your ammonia reading will be the same with or without conditioner. The API kit can't distinguish between free ammonia and bound ammonia (what Prime does to ammonia).
Thank you! Thor is in the 10 gallon tank. I have used sponge and a water bottle to baffle the outflow and a sponge to baffle the intake for the filter. I'm still worried the filter is too strong. When he goes near the filter he gets pushed around. On the other side of the tank he doesn't seem to be pushed around, but his pectoral fins are still going like crazy. Is this normal? Also, I've done a lot of research but I'm still a bit confused about fish in cycling. As I understand the filter needs to build up bacteria that will then convert ammonia into nitrates. I also heard for the cycling period to keep ammonia at maximum .25 ppm, and anything higher do a 50% water change. So my plan is to check my parameters once in the morning and once at night daily, and doing 50% water changes if the ammonia reaches .25 ppm. I've read the thread on fish in cycling but am still confused, so any advice/corrections are welcome!
You know all you need to know about fish-in cycling. Your procedure is fine. Use Prime @2-drops/gal of tank size with every water change. And 1-drop/gal every day until the tank is cycled.
As long as he's not hiding from the filter flow, a little is good for exercise. If he hides or stays away from some areas of the tank, then it may still be too strong. You can stuff a little foam up the intake tube.
And yes, his little pectoral fins are always going; it's what they do.
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