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Whats the best sized tank fora betta

7K views 119 replies 10 participants last post by  ANHEL123 
#1 ·
Hello everyone. I hope someone can help me out. I have a betta who is sick. He had finrot and it came back once he started healing. I've called petco and an aquarium vet who both told me that the size of the tank could be part of the reason he's getting sick. That its big and empty and could be stressing him out and that he should be in a gallon or so tank or even in a fish bowl. Is that truely better for them or should i leave him in the 5 gal tank? I'll admit atm i have only 2 plants in there but i ordered more and they should be here soon. The only reason i got a 5 gal tank is i read on line that WAS the best for them, but all the feedback i'm getting from the pet-store and the vet is that 5 gals is too much. If i need a smaller tank i can buy one at my job they sell 1 1/2 gal tanks and i could easly set it up and get it running on a tray (Dont know what i'll do with the 5 gal tank) but anyways. Some advice would be great
 
#3 · (Edited)
For some Bettas..yes, IMO/E the tank can be too big. You have to remember that the long fin male delicate long heavy fins are man made. Often the long fin male haven't been in a container much bigger than the temporary cups you buy them in-and rarely with any type of water movement since they are cupped for grow out.

Some long fin males-not all-can have problems in larger tanks-especially filtered tanks-The well meaning hobbyist thinking bigger filtered tanks will make the Betta thrive-when it sometimes-not every time can backfire-they get stressed and this in turn can compromise the immune response, it can sometimes cause neurotic behaviors like tail biting, glass surfing. Sometimes you will start to see tattered fins and blown fins due to using them to swim in larger tanks and/or from the filter/water movement.

With some of the more delicate long fin males-you have to slowly build them up so they can thrive in larger filter tanks by going in steps-slowing acclimating over time-Along with good nutrition and tannins to help strengthen, toughen fins, scales...etc.....

Not all long fin males have these type of fin problems with larger filtered tanks and even then it is just cosmetic-but some can and it can be so depressing when our new long fin males beautiful flowing long fins start to tatter-get shorter, he stop eating and hides in a corner or start tail biting or glass surfing-then a dreaded secondary infection shows up that he can't fight due to the compromised immune response from the stress.....All due to a large filtered tank.....it can and does happen.....

Here is a link to an old thread I wrote some time back when I was a moderator here that you might find interesting and hopefully healpful.
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=78317
 
#34 ·
For some Bettas..yes, IMO/E the tank can be too big. You have to remember that the long fin male delicate long heavy fins are man made. Often the long fin male haven't been in a container much bigger than the temporary cups you buy them in-and rarely with any type of water movement since they are cupped for grow out.

Some long fin males-not all-can have problems in larger tanks-especially filtered tanks-The well meaning hobbyist thinking bigger filtered tanks will make the Betta thrive-when it sometimes-not every time can backfire-they get stressed and this in turn can compromise the immune response, it can sometimes cause neurotic behaviors like tail biting, glass surfing. Sometimes you will start to see tattered fins and blown fins due to using them to swim in larger tanks and/or from the filter/water movement.

With some of the more delicate long fin males-you have to slowly build them up so they can thrive in larger filter tanks by going in steps-slowing acclimating over time-Along with good nutrition and tannins to help strengthen, toughen fins, scales...etc.....

Not all long fin males have these type of fin problems with larger filtered tanks and even then it is just cosmetic-but some can and it can be so depressing when our new long fin males beautiful flowing long fins start to tatter-get shorter, he stop eating and hides in a corner or start tail biting or glass surfing-then a dreaded secondary infection shows up that he can't fight due to the compromised immune response from the stress.....All due to a large filtered tank.....it can and does happen.....

Here is a link to an old thread I wrote some time back when I was a moderator here that you might find interesting and hopefully healpful.
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=78317
This is a VERY informative post and this is what I think may be the problem for my male VT. Of course, when I got him he was in a tiny cup with only a few ounces of water. He was immediately moved into a 1/2 gal bowl and, about 2 weeks later, into a 5-gallon tank... and that's when the problems may have started. He has always been extremely active (I would say hyper-active really). Once he got into that 5-gal tank he was moving non-stop (and I mean, literally, non-stop. I have insomnia periodically and I was waking up at 12am-1am and there he was, still glass-surfing and roaring around in the pitch darkness). Still, he was in the 5-gal tank for almost 2 months before the problems started, but I do think he was physically traumatized somehow (sudden problems that started when I went away last weekend). I probably will never know for sure and I'm not even sure I can save him at this point. :-(
He is much less active in the 1/2 bowl (where he is now due to fin rot, which unfortunately I think may be turning into body rot), however he is also sick right now. My only real concern about the bowl is being unable to heat it properly...
 
#5 · (Edited)
Mandi he does have stuff to hide behind. ATM i have atleast 4 plants in the tank all grouped up so he can hide and sleep in them. I just grouped them up now after i removed the castle i had in the middle of the tank.

Old personally i was afraid of that. I'm not sure how long he was kept in a small contanter before he was transported to my job. He was fine for a few weeks before the tail-rot set in and now seems to be spreading to another fin and returning to his tail fin which is depressing. He was stored in unsantary condtions in a 'fish garden' at my job and could be sick.

I'm not sure what glass surfing is but i think he maybe doing that. At times i see him swim up and down the glass mostly on the right hand side of the tank. I want him to be happy. He also does have long flowing fins..well he use too before they started to rot off for some reason. I've been treating him with betta-fix and i added aquarium salt. On saturday I'm gonna do a full water change again and see if that could help him out. I also didntk now theyre fins are man made. Seems horrable to do that to a living creature. They're bigger than his body when i saw them i wondered how he got around but he seems to be able to swim with them so thats good. I've also notested since i grouped up the plants he's been staying on that side of the aquraium. Saddly he's still resting on the rocks and i wish he wouldnt :(

I've also been thinking i may have a 5 gal tank but it can also be used as a turaraium. If needed i could only put like 3 gals in there and lower the filter so it can still firate the water. Could that help him if the tank is too big?
 
#6 ·
Try to do more water changes and see if it will help to perk him up. I am not sure how much and how often you change his water before?
Since he is sick i would turn off the filter and try to do more water changes. Do 3- 50% water changes about 2-6 hrs apart. Then do another full water changes about 4 -6 hrs apart from the last 50% water change.
Stop betta fix it very easy to overdose and it harmful for bettas labyringh organs. So do all water changes to get rid of the betta fix and salt.
Salt has antibacterial affect but you need to use right dosage though and duration.
How much and how long you been adding the salt?
Is he still eating?
What food you feeding him with?
If he is eating i would recommend to go and buy frozen blood worms , it enriched in protein and good for the immune system.
What kind of water conditioner are you using?
Did you ever check your water to see if you have ammonia in your tap water?
And you can lower the water so it will be easier for him to swim up for the air and take out the filter for now.
There is a lot of factors that betta can get sick...but i think now you need to try to get him better.
Also i just read Oldfishlady thread after i put my post and it also a lot of helpful information there.
 
#7 ·
Before he got sick i never did i had no knowledge of the cycle ppl talk about i do now and i've thought about what to do with Fishy and i desided to get him a hospital tank This way i can do daily 50% water changes and clean any poop or food that falls to the bottom. In that tank i can keep the filter from running and add salt.

The last time i added salt was last week. I havent touched the water because of the betta-fix which did crap for him.

I'm using Prime water conditoner the biggest ? i have is the salt. If hes in a 1 1/2 hosptal tank how much salt should i put in? Someoen said 1 tea-spoon per gal.
He is eatting, i've been giving him dryed brine shrimp. One a day and he gobbles it up.
 
#8 ·
How much of the aq salt per gall you was adding?
How long you was treating him with salt?
Do you have stress coat? Stress coat has Aloe Vera in it and helps with healing.
About filter , even if he would be in 5 gall you can go without the filter. I have 5 gall i keep it without the filter only because it easier for me to do regular water changes.
Aquarium salt you can use 1tsp/gall up to 3tsp/gall. In 1 1/2 gall tank i would do daily water changes. But first do a few 50% water changes so you don't shock him with water difference.
And before you use salt again tell us how long and how much you been using. Salt is helpful with mild fin rot but you can not overdose it as it will affect the kidneys. You can use reuse salt again though if you finished it 7 days ago.
You always need to pre mix it and make sure it dissolved before you adding it in the tank. You can start with 1 tsp/gall and slowly increase it to 3 tsp/gall in 12 hrs period. Or just add 1 tsp/gall first day of the treatment.
2 tsp/gall second day
3tsp/gall day 3
You can treat with salt up to 14 days , no longer than that.
About food try also frozen food really recommending and the best pellets are
http://www.bigalspets.com/betta-formula-1-mm-semi-floating-pellets-50-g.html

http://www.petco.com/product/116563...ne-_-1483889&gclid=CIeP_N-DlbkCFYuk4AodmHkAZQ

Do daily 100% water changes after you do a few 50%.
Very important to acclimate your betta to the new water
 
#9 ·
Here is a few variations that's pretty simple:
1. can have betta in the changing cup with about 15% of the water and keep adding small amount of the new water about every 5 min for about 5-6 times -this way you he will get used to the temperature:)

2. Note the temperature of the water.

Using a plastic cup, scoop him, along with some of his water, into the cup.
Clean out the tank. Refill with water at the SAME temp. Be sure to add the correct amount of water conditioner.
Float his cup in the tank for about 15 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
Add a SMALL amount of NEW water to the cup. (Several tablespoons, or about 1.5 ounces.)
Let his cup float for about 10 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
If the cup starts to fill too much, remove a SMALL amount of water from the cup. Discard it.
Repeat steps 5-7, until about an hour has passed. (If he sits longer because you're studying, that's OK.)
Gently release him into the tank.

3. To do a water change, use a little cup like a plastic solo cup - this cup must be only for him and have never been used with soap or other chems. Scoop him up in this cup (keep him in the cup about 1/4 full of water - it doesn't need to be much because he won't be in it for long) and leave him in the cup while you change his water. To do the 50% use a turkey baster - dedicated only to him that has never seen soap or chems - and drag it through the gravel and try to suck as much of the poop out as possible, in addition to 50% of the water. Use a thermometer under the running tap to get it to be the same temp as the water that is normally in his tank. When the thermometer says the flowing tap is the right temp, fill back up his tank. At this point, add the conditioner (dose for how much water you change - if you change half the water you add half gallon worth of conditioner, If you do a 100% water change dose for the full gallon change). Float his plastic cup with him in it in the new water. Slowly add a couple tablespoons of the new water into his cup every 10 minutes for at least an hour. Finally, dump him in gently but try to get as little of the old cup water back into the tank as possible. When you do the weekly 100% you will do mostly the same thing except empty his tank fully and rinse everything in it very well under warm water but never use soaps or chemicals. Once it's fully cleaned/rinsed you can refill it and repeat the cup/acclimate phase.

4. When I change the water I put him in the cup I got him in then I take everything out of the tank, rinse everything with warm tap water. Then I put everything back in the tank, fill it with dechlorinated new water, and then turn the heater on. When the tank water is the same as the cup water , then take the dirty cup water out and a little at a time and put clean tank water in the cup. After that I put the cup in the tank and he swims out.
 
#10 ·
Thank you i'm gonna do that it would be less stressful for him to do so. I have some dixie cups i can use to put him in but if needed i have plastic cups around the house as well. It sounds like putting him in a dixie cup would be less stressful and i can float it in the hospital tank. The biggest problem i have is should i put the heater in the hospital tank?
 
#11 ·
How much of the aq salt per gall you was adding? i added one tea-spoon

How long you was treating him with salt? This is the only thing i've used

Do you have stress coat? Stress coat has Aloe Vera in it and helps with healing. No i'm unsure what that is.

i'm gonna use ur dixie cup idea atm i have his hospital tank set up and i'm heating up the water i'm gonna put him in the dixie cup and float it in there so he can use to that temp i'm trying to make it like the water in his 5 gal tank. This way i can do the 50% water changes at lot easyer. I also did add one tea-spoon of salt to help him out as well.
 
#12 ·
Ok 1 1/2 gall tank. One tsp not enough. Add 2 tsp/gall next water changes. 2tsp/gall for your 11/2 gall tank is 3tsp. So next time you do 50% water change add 3tsp of the aq salt. Then following day increase dose to 3 tsp per gallon so for your tank (1 1/2 it will be 4.5tsp/gall) Do daily 50% water changes but eventually you need to do full water change . Do full water change every 4 days. And use aquarium salt 3tsp/gall no longer then 12 days.
Try to buy frozen blood worms and good pellets. If you see API stress coat or any other brand you can add it to his tank. But do not add full dose of it as it also water conditioner and you already using Prime. You can ass a few drops of the stress coat.
 
#14 ·
i plan on it. So far i can see more clear stuff between his fins than i can see black. it doesnt look like much more of his fins have fallen off since thursday which maybe a good thing. What I'm not happy about is the fact his one gal tank even wraped in towels almost fell out of the green last night due to the fact i cant use a heater. SO i'm gonna do what Netupes-mom sugested and put the hosptial tank in the 5 gal tank so he will be warm. I have a 4" terra-cotta pot i can put in the tank and rest the the hospital tank ontop of it. I also think i have clips so i can clip it onto the tanka s well. the biggiest issue i'll haveis i need to put the termomenter in the 5 gal tank and slowly warm it up so he doesn't go into shock.
 
#19 ·
I had another question. I'm gonna clamp his hospital tank inside of his 5 gal tank so he cam stay warm. Atm his water temp is at 72* because i can't put a heater in the one gal tank. If i put him in the 5 gal tank (in this hosptal tank) would that

A) affect the cycling of the tank

b)Could the ammoina in the 5 gal tank hurt fishy in the 1 gal tank?
 
#23 · (Edited)
It fine to put hospital tank if it 72* in the 5 gall tank with temp 77*. The hospital tank should slowly get warmer. It will be gradual temperature change so it fine.

The terra-cotta pot that you put in the tank is it aquarium safe? I am not sure , find out before you will decide to put your betta back in that tank with those pots. I would think you rinse them before you put them there? And if you will decide to put betta back in 5 gall make sure you check the water parameters and do a water changes too.
 
#24 ·
Oh i plan on it! Atm im trying to get a cycle going in my 5 gal tank so when i put him back in hes in a heatly and stable invorment. I will not be leaving the terra-cotta pot in there with him. As i'm not 100% sure its fishy safe. Its mearly something high to rest the hospital tank at. ATM his hospital tank is at anice 78* and i plan on leaving it there.

I did wash the terra-cotta pot befor i put it in as well.
 
#25 ·
Well if it not aquarium safe then you will need to do a full water change to insure that nothing leached in the tank , in the gravel though.
So you decided to keep him in his 5 gall tank and trying to cycle it. Not sure if you had the links from Oldfishlady. I am going to post them for you, i think you can find a lot of tips in there. First link for fishin cycle though. Do you want me to find for fishless cycle?
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=107771

http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=115758
 
#27 ·
Sry i know i havent been on much our dog suddenly got very ill and passed away and i was dealing with that. Fishy has gotten a bit better the baterical fin-rot is gone but saddly he got a secondary fungal infection. i got some jungl fungus killer and i've been treating him with that. Since ive done that he hasn't lost anymore of his fins but i can see fugus on his tailfin. If the jungle doesnt work i was gonna try API fugus killer. Ill keep an eye on him
 
#28 ·
So sorry for you dog:( I know how sad it is, i had to put down my 16 years old dog . She had kidneys failure. I was devastated but you know its just cycle of life . I thought that my dog and your dog had a good and happy life. We took another dog from the shelter. I decide that it time to rescue another life.

About fungal infection. Are you sure it is fungus? Fungus is white growth, may look like ling strands of fine hair or small patches, fuzzy. Can be gray,white or milky.

Also fish can have excessive slime coat due to infection , which you was treating him from. Also he might have bit of the slime coat from using salt.
Slime coat comes off the tips of the fins and sometimes the body. Slime coat usually slimy,clear like a mucus. It a natural fish protection against of the disease. Fish will act otherwise the same.

Be careful with all those medications , you don't want to over medicate him. And do not use API until you sure it really fungus. Do you still have him in the hospital tank? I don't remember how big it is. You already using medications so finish it and see how he doing and keep him in the super clean water. I don't remember if you using stress coat which is good idea. Stress coat and salt that you was using all together also can promote slime coat.
Is he acting healthy?
 
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