Introduction and question about filters

[Tiger Oak]

Hi all! My name is Tiger Oak--I have been lurking here for about a week, and thought it was time to introduce myself! Recently, I was wandering around the fish section of my local Petco, and I began toying with the idea of adopting a betta fish. I haven't purchased a fish yet, because I want to get his tank *just right* first! Here is what I have so far:

Aqueon Mini-Bow 2.5 gallon tank
Aqueon 10 watt heater (keeping my tank at a constant 80 degrees)
Two live plants--Anacharis and Anubias
Ceramic pitcher (to be a hiding/resting spot)

My question is about the filter that comes with the Aqueon 2.5. I've read here on the forum that bettas don't like current in their tank. So, if that is the case, is this filter going to work for me as is, or should I baffle it somehow? Alternately, should I pitch it altogether and get an air pump and sponge filter? Any feedback is greatly appreciated! Here are some pictures of my current set-up (the small picture shows what the filter looks like):

[Micho]

Hi there! 2.5g is a great Betta home, glad to see you picked up a heater too, and a thermometer! I can't see properly but make sure the anubias is not rooted, it can be buried into the substrate but if the rhizome (a thick root) is buried it'll die. :) Better to tie it onto something, or you could leave it floating.

Another thing is about the ceramic pitcher. Is that ceramic objects might be harmful to the fish. If the pot has a glaze over it'll slowly deteriorate in the water and when the glaze is gone, trouble happens, if it doesn't have a glaze it's safe to use.

Just check for these things in the vase:
- Bumps: if there's bumps it's a sign of air or water pockets that have seeped through the ceramic and the glaze.
- Chips: Any part of the vase that has been chipped.
- Scratches: Scratches anywhere that looks like that has exposed the ceramic on the inside.

Now about the filter, I haven't used this tank before but if the filter current is moving the leaves of the anubias and/or the anacharis, chances are it's too strong for a Betta. You can baffle it by shoving a piece of aquarium sponge in the intake or output/waterfall of the filter, that'll reduce it's current. Bettas don't need air pumps, they breathe with their labyrinth organ, if you want one it's okay to do so, but just make sure it doesn't create a strong current. If you choose to not use the filter, in a 2.5g having a filter is optional really, so having no filter, or a sponge filter is entirely up to you.

[Oldfishlady]

Welcome to the forum...glad you decided to join......

IMO/E filtration is optional with this species and since the smaller tanks are limited with surface area for nitrifying bacteria the nitrogen cycle isn't stable and twice weekly water changes would still be needed with or without the filter, however, with the filter you wouldn't need to make any 100% water changes......

Some Betta do not tolerate filters or water movement very well and often the long heavy fin males will have fin issues with filters-Not all of them-but some can end up with tattered fins and this open wound can sometimes be the source of a secondary infection...

Personally, since the tank comes with the filter-I would try it with your new Betta and see how he does and if he doesn't tolerate it or it cause fin issue-them remove it....or baffle it.....

In a 2.5gal unfiltered without live plants-water changes of twice weekly...1-50% and 1-100% to maintain water quality.

In 2.5gal with a filter-50% twice weekly water changes...1-50% water only and 1-50% to include the substrate by vacuum or stir and dip method

Filter media needs a rinse/swish in the bucket of old tank water with a water change a couple of times a month to maintain water flow...

Adding live plants can change water changes needs based on number species and growth state.....a few plants or slow growing plants generally will not change water change needs....

Look forward to pics once you get your new Betta and your tank looks nice...good job........be sure and properly acclimate him to the new chemistry.....

[Tiger Oak]

Originally Posted by Micho

I can't see properly but make sure the anubias is not rooted, it can be buried into the substrate but if the rhizome (a thick root) is buried it'll die. :) Better to tie it onto something, or you could leave it floating.
Another thing is about the ceramic pitcher. Is that ceramic objects might be harmful to the fish. If the pot has a glaze over it'll slowly deteriorate in the water and when the glaze is gone, trouble happens, if it doesn't have a glaze it's safe to use.

OK--thanks for the advice on the anubias! I tied it to the handle of the pitcher with cotton thread so the roots are above the gravel. Regarding the pitcher, it is a food-grade pitcher, with a glaze that is identical to what would be used on a coffee cup or dishes. Is that generally safe in betta tanks? I checked it very carefully, and I don't see any chips, bubbles, or cracks.

[Tiger Oak]

Originally Posted by Oldfishlady

Look forward to pics once you get your new Betta and your tank looks nice...good job........be sure and properly acclimate him to the new chemistry.....

I know when you add a new fish to an aquarium, you should equalize the water temperatures between the container they come in and the tank they are going into, but how do you acclimate him to the new chemistry? Do you slowly add tank water to the container that they are in, or...what???

[Oldfishlady]

Correct....proper acclimation to both chemistry and temp by adding small amount of tank water to the holding cup over 10-20min or to their tolerance-dump the holding container water down the drain or in a potted plant-you never want to add this water to the tank....but I am sure you knew that already......

You should acclimate this way with new fish and when you cup the Betta for 100% water changes.....Time-line can vary based on their tolerance.

Also, if its a new Betta that looks to be in really old or nasty water-often this water will naturally drop in pH...this causes the ammonia to convert to ammonium and once you add small amount of the tank water this can cause the pH to go up and the ammonium convert back to ammonia. To avoid this-just add a drop of ammonia neutralizer to the holding cup for the acclimation process.