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Old 05-19-2012, 10:49 PM   #1 
Fluval
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Questions About Fry Foods

I'm going to start breeding bettas soon when school is out as a summer job.

I'm not going to care for one hundred fish; I'm going to remove the female after she releases fifteen eggs or so. I'm going to silicone containers together, about two to three gallons each. I'm making three rows, each with five containers. I'm drilling holes in sides of containers so they flow together as one tank. I'm putting a filter on the second and fourth tanks. The heater will go in the center. I'm going to put the rows on a shelf, and make it my betta barracks.

The main thing I'm asking is what food is the best and cheapest? Betty Splendens guide to hobbyist breeding left off at where you can feed the fry microworms, infruorsia, daphnia, etc.

My next question is when do I seperate the fry so that they don't kill each other? I understand they can be in their 5 gallon, half filled tank with their father until they're free swimming. When they do need to be seperated, they will be placed in their barracks mentioned above.

Next, how often do I change the water? I have to be careful not to suck the fry up.
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Old 05-19-2012, 11:27 PM   #2 
LebronTheBetta
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For the Food, I've heard that you could grow Infoursia by yourself. I think that's what I've heard. Separating the Fry, Uh, I don't know. I've never bred before. I'm guessing 1 week after Free-Swimming. Does it Matter for them to be Separated early? Cause I don't know. And for the Water Changes, ever so carefully, just do a 25% Change 1-3 times per week. Watch Out for the Fry!!!
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Old 05-19-2012, 11:42 PM   #3 
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I'm going to start breeding bettas soon when school is out as a summer job.

Nice to have a goal.

I'm not going to care for one hundred fish; I'm going to remove the female after she releases fifteen eggs or so.

Good idea, but you won't have much to choose from that way. If you are selling for profit then better to raise the fry and pick the best ones and euthanize the rest in as humane a manner as you can.

I'm going to silicone containers together, about two to three gallons each. I'm making three rows, each with five containers. I'm drilling holes in sides of containers so they flow together as one tank. I'm putting a filter on the second and fourth tanks. The heater will go in the center. I'm going to put the rows on a shelf, and make it my betta barracks.

Been there done that. It's a B to keep clean, and you still have to do water changes anyway...

The main thing I'm asking is what food is the best and cheapest? Betty Splendens guide to hobbyist breeding left off at where you can feed the fry microworms, infruorsia, daphnia, etc.

Microworms are probably the cheapest, but there are many stories about feeding only microworms and Bettas growing with no pectorial fins.... Baby Brine shrimp eggs look expensive at 40 bucks a can, but that can last quite a long time... Best is a combo of MW and BBS. (The plexi to build your barracks will cost you much more than the food will)

My next question is when do I seperate the fry so that they don't kill each other? I understand they can be in their 5 gallon, half filled tank with their father until they're free swimming. When they do need to be seperated, they will be placed in their barracks mentioned above.

When they get aggressive and bite fins... I hear many different times. If you check up Youtube videos you can see brood tanks with fry almost near adult all kept together. I think they pick out the males to jar when they can Identify them. Females can usually be kept together anyway.

Next, how often do I change the water? I have to be careful not to suck the fry up.

Depends on tank size.... Get a master API Test kit for fresh water and carefully monitor your water.
Good Luck with your Projects!!
Jeff.

Last edited by jeffegg2; 05-19-2012 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 05-20-2012, 12:15 AM   #4 
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Good Luck with your Projects!!
Jeff.
Thank you.. I'm probably not building my own tanks out of plexi glass. I want some completely see-through acrylic containers. I'd like at least 2 gallons per container.
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Old 05-20-2012, 12:18 AM   #5 
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Thank you.. I'm probably not building my own tanks out of plexi glass. I want some completely see-through acrylic containers. I'd like at least 2 gallons per container.
I saw some 5 gal acrylic tanks in the local Meijers Inc. Why do you want acrylic?

Jeff.
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:31 AM   #6 
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I saw some 5 gal acrylic tanks in the local Meijers Inc. Why do you want acrylic?

Jeff.
It will most likely be cheaper, easier to find, and easier to drill through.
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Old 05-20-2012, 01:28 PM   #7 
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My experience with acrylic is not too pleasant. Drilling through it is not as easy as you'd think, it cracks and spiders out really easily. Best way to do it is laying it on a piece of scrap wood and clamping or taping it down, then drilling through the acrylic and wood and pray it doesn't chip and crack up the sides. xD

You don't need to separate the youngsters until they are old enough to start fighting. They will play fight each other, but when the males become old enough to really want to kill each other, that's when you separate them.

As far as water changes, the water for the fry needs to be impeccable. They will be fine for the first week or so, as they feed in the infusoria, but after that you have to start doing daily water changes. I recommend 50% every day, at least. The tricky part is doing this without disturbing the fry. The best way is to take airline tubing, stick an air stone on the end and siphon the clean water into the tank at the same time you siphon the dirty water out of the tank. I also recommend putting a piece of brine shrimp net, or even pantyhose, over the tip of a turkey baster and removing uneaten food and waste from the bottom.

Getting a snail or two into the tank will also help. I add mine in during the night as a cleanup crew, and remove them in the morning. They won't bother the fry, and do a fantastic job.
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Old 05-20-2012, 03:09 PM   #8 
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My experience with acrylic is not too pleasant. Drilling through it is not as easy as you'd think, it cracks and spiders out really easily. Best way to do it is laying it on a piece of scrap wood and clamping or taping it down, then drilling through the acrylic and wood and pray it doesn't chip and crack up the sides. xD

You don't need to separate the youngsters until they are old enough to start fighting. They will play fight each other, but when the males become old enough to really want to kill each other, that's when you separate them.

As far as water changes, the water for the fry needs to be impeccable. They will be fine for the first week or so, as they feed in the infusoria, but after that you have to start doing daily water changes. I recommend 50% every day, at least. The tricky part is doing this without disturbing the fry. The best way is to take airline tubing, stick an air stone on the end and siphon the clean water into the tank at the same time you siphon the dirty water out of the tank. I also recommend putting a piece of brine shrimp net, or even pantyhose, over the tip of a turkey baster and removing uneaten food and waste from the bottom.

Getting a snail or two into the tank will also help. I add mine in during the night as a cleanup crew, and remove them in the morning. They won't bother the fry, and do a fantastic job.
This is what I had in mind for barracks, only smaller:
http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/a...mo2904/050.jpg

Also, do you have to hatch the brine shrimp eggs? Or do you just drop the eggs in and the fry suck them up? How much will a hatchery cost? And can you link me to a cheap can, I don't need a whole lot since I'm only caring for 15 fry.

Last edited by Fluval; 05-20-2012 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 05-20-2012, 03:22 PM   #9 
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Nice. :) A few things to keep in mind-

In order for the clean water to circulate through all of the compartments, you need a powerful in and out system. A lot of people will have the water move left to right through the tanks, then down a tube into a sump filter. The water passes through the filtration system, and is pushed back up to the barracks using a powerful cansiter pump. Then the clean water starts at compartment one, and starts again. Putting a couple of filters in every other tank probably isn't enough to fully circulate the water in all compartments, unless you crank them on full speed, but that would certainly send the bettas who share the compartments with the filter flying and swirling and toppling around in the water. xD ROFL. Similarly with the heater- one of my tanks is a 10 gallon divided into three, with a heater in the middle compartment. I can feel a big difference in temperature from the middle water to the water on the edges. It's the dividing walls in the tank that keeps the warmer water away from the colder water.

I plan on constructing a Betta drip system when I move into my bigger house this November. It also uses the sump and pump system, but the water goes into a tube that is fixed above the barracks, and it has spouts for each compartment that drip the water in. Similarly, each compartment as an "out" spout, where the dirty water on the bottom drains into a slanted rail that leads back down to the sump. This way, none of the bettas water will touch each other, its all individual clean water supply and drainage. This stops any chance of spreading disease, in case one gets sick. I'd rather deal with one sick Betta than have to deal with an epidemic in the barracks. xD
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Old 05-20-2012, 03:42 PM   #10 
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Building a barrack takes a little investing, time & patients to set up. I'm still building mine from last summer cause I'm still trying to figure out the pipe lines and I'm building it from scratch. There are no instruction manual when building your barracks, it takes a lot of study to build your own system. Unless your rich and have a professional tank specialist set in up for you. So far I've invested almost $1,200 in a my system, The lighting and filtration system will grab you by your pocket the most and that's not including the electric & utility bill...
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