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Old 06-13-2012, 01:19 AM   #11 
FateError
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Based on what I'm reading. I think it might be ragged edges. There's more whitish clear tail ever since i bought him. And the tips are starting to turn blue. I guess that's a good thing? but if i think it's getting worse. I will treat him with AQ salt.

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Old 06-13-2012, 01:28 AM   #12 
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Keep an eye on it. If they're turning blue, then that's a *great* sign. Just make sure it's blue and not black. I'm hyper-sensitive to rot so put him in AQ right away if anything changes. It wouldn't hurt to buy some and have it on hand. It's inexpensive and worth the purchase.
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:31 AM   #13 
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Yeah, I am quite sure it's blue not black or something haha. But what gets me is the blue/black dot or line at where the webbing is getting shorter. but the tips are either clear, red or blue. I will go and get AQ salt and a heater ASAP.
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:00 PM   #14 
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Ok, sorry to post here, but it's getting worse. I think it might be tail rot. or his tail is getting more ragged D: Here are the pics from today. What you guys think?











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Old 06-19-2012, 11:58 PM   #15 
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If it's progressing then you'll want to treat with AQ salt right away. A few of your pics look like rot but a few of them look like ragged edges. It's alwalys best to be safe than sorry. Everyone else gave you excellent directions on how to treat it. Remember, you need to do 100% water changes every day for 10 days (no more) and you need to dissolve the salt before you add it to the tank. He really needs a heater, if you haven't already purchased one. Also, replace his current feedings with either frozen blood worms or frozen brine shrimp during his treatment. Both the heater and the protein are good to keep his immunity system strong. Cold water reduces their ability to fight infections. Keep us posted.
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:01 AM   #16 
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If it's progressing then you'll want to treat with AQ salt right away. A few of your pics look like rot but a few of them look like ragged edges. It's alwalys best to be safe than sorry. Everyone else gave you excellent directions on how to treat it. Remember, you need to do 100% water changes every day for 10 days (no more) and you need to dissolve the salt before you add it to the tank. He really needs a heater, if you haven't already purchased one. Also, replace his current feedings with either frozen blood worms or frozen brine shrimp during his treatment. Both the heater and the protein are good to keep his immunity system strong. Cold water reduces their ability to fight infections. Keep us posted.
Ok, I will get the salt. My water stays around 78-82 all day. That's what the temp of the house is. But thanks for the reply. But how does he have tail rot? Is my water not safe enough for him? I feed him the small fish formula of NLS. Is that fine?
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:29 AM   #17 
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If you're using a good water conditioner then I'm sure your water is fine. The only tap water concerns I've heard about are some in Thailand. High pH can cause fins to curl too but curling is not a health concern. My pH is 8.5 and one of my VT's has curling issues. Your guy could too, but based on your pics it does look like a bit of rot. You can test a lot of your water perameters with a liquid test kit. The API Master Kit is the one most recommended. It would be a good investment in the future because obviously you care a lot about your little friend. But in the meantime you can bring a sample of your water to a local LFS and they'll test it for you. Just contact them before you bring in the water and see if they test pH. Anyway, get a thermometer to verify your water temp. You can get the little glass, suction cup type for only $2. I know a lot of folks who live in the Mid-West and Eastern States who turn off their heaters during the summer because of the excessive heat, but a thermometer is required to keep an eye on it. Fin rot is generally a result of dirty water. Many times when we purchase our fish they've been sitting in filthy water and the rot begins before we even purchase them. Clean water usually clears it up, but some times the bacteria just sets in and they need salt to clear it up. Plastic plants and decorations can also cause the longer finned males issues in regards to ripping. They can snag their tails on them. That might be something or even the intake on a filter can cause problems. Just a few things to consider. NLS (I'm assuming New Life Spectrum?) is one of the best pellet foods, but our bettas are carnivors. They're meat eaters. If you can add some worms or shrimp to his diet then that's best. Also, during health issues the pure protein really helps. I'm sure a salt treatment will fix him right up.
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:34 AM   #18 
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If you're using a good water conditioner then I'm sure your water is fine. The only tap water concerns I've heard about are some in Thailand. High pH can cause fins to curl too but curling is not a health concern. My pH is 8.5 and one of my VT's has curling issues. Your guy could too, but based on your pics it does look like a bit of rot. You can test a lot of your water perameters with a liquid test kit. The API Master Kit is the one most recommended. It would be a good investment in the future because obviously you care a lot about your little friend. But in the meantime you can bring a sample of your water to a local LFS and they'll test it for you. Just contact them before you bring in the water and see if they test pH. Anyway, get a thermometer to verify your water temp. You can get the little glass, suction cup type for only $2. I know a lot of folks who live in the Mid-West and Eastern States who turn off their heaters during the summer because of the excessive heat, but a thermometer is required to keep an eye on it. Fin rot is generally a result of dirty water. Many times when we purchase our fish they've been sitting in filthy water and the rot begins before we even purchase them. Clean water usually clears it up, but some times the bacteria just sets in and they need salt to clear it up. Plastic plants and decorations can also cause the longer finned males issues in regards to ripping. They can snag their tails on them. That might be something or even the intake on a filter can cause problems. Just a few things to consider. NLS (I'm assuming New Life Spectrum?) is one of the best pellet foods, but our bettas are carnivors. They're meat eaters. If you can add some worms or shrimp to his diet then that's best. Also, during health issues the pure protein really helps. I'm sure a salt treatment will fix him right up.
I know my Petco will test my water. I will bring in a cup for him. I have 1 silk plant and a live amazon plant. No filter for me. I actually do have a thermometer in my tank. That's how I know the water is from 78-82 every day. I do feed my betta frozen blood worms twice a week in addition of the pellets and fasting on Sundays.
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:43 AM   #19 
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Oh well you're good! If you have a live plant then you'll want to remove him from the tank when you do the salt treatment. The salt will kill your plant. If you don't have a specific QT tank then you can float him in a cup in his tank. You can mix up a gallon jug of treated water with the 1tsp of salt and use that for his daily water changes. Or remove your plant . . . whichever is easier for you.
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:45 AM   #20 
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Oh well you're good! If you have a live plant then you'll want to remove him from the tank when you do the salt treatment. The salt will kill your plant. If you don't have a specific QT tank then you can float him in a cup in his tank. You can mix up a gallon jug of treated water with the 1tsp of salt and use that for his daily water changes. Or remove your plant . . . whichever is easier for you.
Haha, think I'll just remove the plant. Anyways, thanks again for the help! I will keep this thread updated.
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