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Old 06-24-2012, 08:45 PM   #21 
prodrumernate
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i use gravel vacuum.i was kinda wondering how well they worked.mine cost 10 dollars at walmart.it works like a charm.just keep the exhaust tube lower than the vac and the current will be strong enough to surly clean up the gravel.

thats the bet thing to use because u want to get any old waste and food from the bottom of the tank.if not it will caue ammonia to build and get sicker..but u can just use a small clean cup and scoop it out slowly.

you are welcome :) trust me the gravel vac is worth it all..
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Old 06-24-2012, 08:56 PM   #22 
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I don't actually have any gravel! I considered it but I read that it was easy for bacteria to grow on gravel and then the fish can get really sick. (A lot of things I read that bettas really like I avoided just because of all the potential problems I hear about like live food and such). I only put the plastic plant in so if he ever got ich, I could be able to tell if he used them to scratch himself. He actually stayed away from the decoration until recently when he got sick he started hiding under the rock holding down the plastic plant :P.

Would not having gravel cause the vacuum to suck the water too quickly/cause any problems?

I will try seeing if Wal-Mart has any better fish medicine than Petco as well! Thanks for that idea :D
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:31 PM   #23 
prodrumernate
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gravel is better for tank.it gives room for beneficial bacteria to grow which is good for the fish..im thinking about doing a tank with no substrate here shortly.but the gravel vacuum is good for cleaning up waste at the bottom especially if nothing at the bottom other than glass.1 reason i want to do a tank with no subtrate..

i read live food int such a good idea do to the fact their could be parasites and diseases living in them.i used freeze dried blood worms.

no the vacuum would suck it up about the same.i sometimes hold mine over the gravel just to get the water.the vacuum is perfectly safe as long as the fish isnt sucked into it.which about all that would happen if any fish did and u noticed quickly enough to stop it is a few missing scales and he being a little stressed thats all..

i never had any problems with my fish getting sucked in.i just paid close attention to them.some liked to snoop around and see what i was doing with it.

sometimes walmart carries the samething.just a little cheaper in price.its y i go there for certain things...you are welcome :)
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:33 PM   #24 
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After His Dinner Update

His fins are a little more clumped again and he's still unresponsive. Although I don't think he's quite as dire as yesterday. I just fed him again, it's like he can barely see his food or something though, he keeps missing even when it's right in front of him :(.

You're supposed to see "velvet" under a flashlight. And the camera flash does make him look kind of velvety...maybe he also has velvet/ich? Why does his head have patches of missing color?

Sorry for asking so many questions guys. I know he had ammonia poisoning, but I'm not sure if he's also had symptoms of an internal paraside, velvet, or ich. Please help me eliminate those if possible, thanks!
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:51 PM   #25 
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i do see a purplish tent which could be his natural color and u see it in the light..my fish is like that.but i very healthy..and no need to apologize about asking so many questions..i do the same..its how we learn..

from looking at the pix i dont see any signs of any fungus or bacteria.though there could be internal parasites.but i think he would loose weight if he did.he is eating.when fish are sick usually they wont eat at all.im thinking he is just stressed..

as for the not being able to go straight at his food.it could be just how he is.i dont see any eye bugle so it doesnt look like his eyes are in bad shape.maybe it could be lighting possibily blinding his view.try feeding at a different point in the tank or just having a room light on and no light over his tank.
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Old 06-24-2012, 11:24 PM   #26 
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That is very reassuring thank you very much!! I think it's his color loss that's worrying me. Because I'm not sure if it's just color loss or it could also be some kind of bacteria/parasite/whatever attacking him. I wish I had pictures of him healthy so I could compare and see if I'm overreading or not. I wish they also had more pictures of bettas with Ich so I could know if that's possibly what he's suffering.

The room is pretty dim now as my dad puts several layers between the windows and uses extremely energy saving lights that cause the room to look like its lit by candles. So maybe he just can't see the food because of that then.

I think the reason he's having trouble balancing may be because of the salt treatments! For some reason, I read that you were always supposed to add them but I read from others that you are only supposed to add them for a period of up to 10 days.

I will try to get his water partially changed regardless so at least he's floating around in less salt.
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:59 AM   #27 
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does he have white specs,like grains of sugar anywhere on him?

oh yes that could be it also.my tanks have lights sitting rite on top.my 2 gallon has LED and there r four colors,white,red,green,blue.i turn them all on to bring out the colors in the tank.so my girl can see her food.but i actually have to pput my finger above her water and let her bite it to calm her down enough to feed her or ele she will jump out,happened several times.but she goes at it like a shark...

so i think the dim lighting could be possible.i never tried feeding with the lights low or off.of course i wouldnt be able to ee if she gets it or not.but i think they need light to see.plus fish do need about 8 hours of light a day..it could case discoloration i believe.its like humans.we need light as well,just as plants do also...

i add salt to my tanks about 2 or 3 times a month.following the instructions on the back for the amount i should add for the gallon of my tank.its really a good idea to add it.how much salt did you add?
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Old 06-25-2012, 02:40 PM   #28 
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If he has ich you will notice scratching long before the white spots..
If he has velvet you won't have a doubt once with a flash light, it looks like golden / bronze dust
If he has internal parasite he's in a bad condition and needs treatment asap.

He looks weak so if you won't get a better diagnosis I would do a round of epsom salt and add API general care if he has no improvement..

Don't do it just yet because this is blind shooting with a broad spectrum treatment for parasites and SOME of the other stuff that might cause this.
It will be hard on him and he looks weak so might not survive it.
(Sorry I'm like this but I think its the case, the problem is inside)
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:19 PM   #29 
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I wrote this yesterday, I forgot to post it

Please do what OFL says, don't remove him or do more then a 50% water change. BUT make sure the water change is using dechlorinated water. That's so important. I added in how to acclimate your fish to new water and linked some articles. When adding in the new dechlorinated water, you can use the same idea below, add it in slowly. cant stress how important it is to dechlorinate the water though when using tap water.

Do you have a tap water dechlorinator yet missmayr? (what brand?)

If you don't have one that is why he gets sick right after a water change in tap water. Another reason is the temperature could be very different. Another is if you are using bottled water and try to change him to tap suddenly he can go into shock from the sudden difference in PH.

Also yes he may be so skinny because he needs more food, or yes there could be another problem. Did you notice what his poop looks like? Is it stringy and light colored/white, or are they round brown ball type shapes?

================================================== ====
Don't remove your fish to a different container in your personal case as advised.
One way to do a water change over: (acclimating him to different water.)

1) cup your fish gently into a small fish safe container in the water he is currently in. Leave some room in the top of the container so you can add in water, but leave enough room for your fish to be comfortable in during this process.

2) change water in his home tank completely, refilling it with water the same temperature or as close to the same temperature as you can get from the tap. Add drops of tap water dechlorinator as manufacturer directs on bottle per gallons of water. to the new tank water. (most dechlorinator usually uses 2-3 drops per gallon or something close to that.)

3) Float the container in his tank and wait until the water in both containers is the same temperature.

4) take small amounts of his new dechlorinated tank water that is fresh, and add small amounts of it to his old water, every half hour to an hour making sure you don't get any of the old water in his new. If the cup gets too full remove some of the water and keep doing this slowly. If your fish shows any distress after adding the new water stop adding it, and wait until he recovers. Adjust the amount of water you are switching him to so he doesn't act stressed when you are adding the new water. Maybe start with a tablespoon of water to the old and wait. If things are ok next half hour to an hour, you can do another tablespoon or maybe 2 tablespoons if he is still acting ok. (The amount of water would kind of depend on the size container. I think it's something like 10%) making sure the water is dechlorinated is important before adding any to anything the fish may come in contact with!

5) If the container gets too full gently dump some of the water out (this can be dangerous if he jumps!!) or remove it with your fish turkey baster tool, or scoop some out with a plastic/ foam cup.

6) Keep doing this until your fish is in 100% of the new water and his old is entirely diluted or changed out. How long this takes really depends on how stressed your fish acts to the new additions of water. With him being so miserable I would go really slow. (That is only my opinion though)

It's called acclimating your fish. I will try to link some good posts about how to do this with better directions for you. The slower it is done the safer it usually is because they are less likely to go into shock from big differences in the water. This really only needs to be done once to help your fish adjust to the water he will be spending his life in.

Future water changes can be done simply by letting the water come to temperature in both containers and when it's the same, just adding your fish to the new water.

((Tip: If you have any gallon jugs from the grocery store that drinking water comes in you can use those to keep a supply of aged and dechlorinated water near your fish. Drink the water that comes in the jugs from the store. Then just re-use the jugs from then on for your fish-only water.))

Good articles on acclimating:

http://www.bettatalk.com/acclimatation.htm
http://nippyfish.net/bettas-101/acclimation/

There are some threads here too on the forum on how to do this. They are not popping up in google for me atm.

If anyone knows of a better way or I am mistaken or mistyped something please correct it.

my very best wishes
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:23 PM   #30 
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If you could answer the poop question I asked, and if you have dechlorinator yet is the most important thing I think.

I wouldn't go crazy getting even more medications until you can narrow down what is wrong. Clean (dechlorinated! ;)) water is often a super medication especially if it's poisoning with no additional problems present.

BTW IMPORTANT: make sure if you touch his water clean your hands very well after. Don't let any of his water get in cuts or your eyes or mouth just in case. (not sure if you knew that)

Last edited by Twilight Storm; 06-25-2012 at 08:25 PM.
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