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Old 06-16-2012, 02:11 PM   #1 
aqua001
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Smile I really want to breed!!!!!

So, I've done hours of research for the past 3 or 4 weeks and got all the info I could find. So, I understand what I need in terms of supplies but since I'm only in elementary school, all that genetic stuff is highly confusing. Could someone please explain a simplified version for me? for my first spawn, I would like to breed 2 red half-moons and will most likely try to find a young pair at a LPS. If that is not possible, I will get them off of aqua bid. my goal is just to breed bettas good enough to be pets but better than petstore ones.

Here are the supplies I will be getting.

-One heated ten gal First, this will be divided. One side=male, other=female. Then, I will put the female in a jar, take out the divider and do all that stuff.
-2 baby brine shrimp cultures (incase one fails)
-18 GAL growout tank.
-60-70 jars for males. Is this too much,not enough or just right?
-1 sponge filter in the grow out tank.
-bloodworms to uhh, whats the word? It's to get the couple ready for breeding.

Does anyone have any suggestions for what other things I should get? Oh yeah, I well also be getting the oxygen bags incase bettas will be shipped.
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Old 06-16-2012, 02:16 PM   #2 
Mo
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The Spawning Tank



The Spawning Tank is a very important part of breeding. This picture includes the vital parts of a spawning tank.


Many Plants.
floating or non substrate rooted live plants should suffice. Since there shouldn't be any gravel or substrate in the breeding tank, no rooted plants should be used, Silk plants would also do good. I recommend live plants though. Your tank needs to be heavily planted, so the female feels secure and can escape for a few seconds away from the male.

Caves, Or Decorations
.
this provides even more cover and an area for both the female and the male to retreat to. both the male and female get injured during this process. The female will highly appreciate a cave, or other decoration to retreat to, this reduces stress in my opinion and experience

1 - 20 Gallon Spawning Tank.
The Spawning tank can be any size ranging from 1 - 20 gallons, the tank size can also vary depending on the way you breed. Usually the "Thai" way is used with smaller tanks, while the "Hobbyist Method" usually consists of larger tanks half filled or only filled to a certain amount. usually males don't spawn in higher tanks. hence why the water level is lower

A Sponge Filter (Optional).
A Filter is optional. I usually choose to use a filter though when spawning as it reduces the need for water changes. I would preferably use a Sponge Filter. I try to cause Minimal stress, and changing the water to the fish's needs will cause a bit of stress. with constantly introducing and removing water. The filter helps greatly with this issue. Remember. only a cycled filter will help with this issue

No Substrate
.
Substrate can be used in a spawning tank but it makes it very hard for the Male Betta to pick up the eggs and place them into the Bubble Nest. Even though the substrate might be "pretty" it makes spawning completely harder. Please don't use any sort of substrate. gravel or sand, it isn't needed and it just makes it harder for them to spawn

A Chimney.
What's called a chimney is primarily needed to spawn. It lets the male and female see each other with out hurting or injuring each other. it also helps to identify if the female is ready for breeding, she'll show vertical breeding stripes. I personally use a 1 - 2 liter soda bottle cut at the bottom and, a place the female in it. My example is shown in the picture at the top.

An Anchor For The Nest
.
This might be optional to other but to me its an absolute need. My Male Splendens will not make a bubblenest unless there is an anchor such as a half cut cup, a large leaf, or any other close alternative. I personally Use a half cut Styrofoam cup, the anchor also serves another purpose. to minimize the amount of flow where he builds his bubble nest.

Source Of Heat -
all bettas need a source of heat with spawning requiring a bit higher than normal. for spawning to occur the temperature should be maintained around 80-85. Use heaters or heat the room to maintain temperatures. Make sure they dont constantly fluctuate

Male And Female Betta

A Quality Pair.
This is The most important part about breeding Bettas. You always want a quality pair that is worth breeding. breeding deformed Bettas could result in even more deformities while breeding Veil Tails would result in difficulties to find homes for and a minimal profit.

Live Or Frozen Foods.
Live or frozen foods are needed for conditioning the pair. Brine Shrimp, Black Worms, Blood worms, Mosquito Larvae, and others can be used

Growout Tank, and Fry Needs


A Minimum Of 10-20 Gallon Tank
A minimum of a 10 - 20 gallon would be needed to maintain a growout tank depending on the size of the spawn. for smaller spawns a 10 gallon can be used

Source Of Heat
all bettas need a source of heat with fry requiring a bit higher than normal. For best and optimal growth within the fry, temperatures around 85-88 should be maintained. Use heaters or heat the room to maintain temperatures. Make sure they dont constantly fluctuate.

Sponge Filter.
While This is arguable, in My Personal Opinion a cycled filter with minimal flow is needed to help clean the water along with adding dissolved oxygen into the water for the fry. Fry grow faster and are healthier with cleaner water. Always make sure the tank is cycled first.

Plants And Cover (Optional).
This is optional, plants and cover arent needed in any way. some breeders believe the growth is faster and the fry are healthier with many live plants in the tank. select the proper plants if you choose to add them, some plants cant withstand such high temperatures

Live Foods
Live foods are needed for fry, Some good foods are Baby Brine Shrimp, Microwoms, Banana Worms, Walter Worms, and infusoria. these are all nutritional and promote great growth within the betta. once they get older frozen foods can be fed

100+ Jars
Many, Many jars or small tanks are needed for breeding as aggressive males need to be seperated from the growout tank because they will most likely become a problem. the time spawn in which they gain aggression can differ so there really isnt any specific time when they get aggression if you were gonna wait for a couple of months until you get jars. Quart Jars are perfect for separating them.
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Old 06-17-2012, 10:48 PM   #3 
indjo
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My method:

Set up the breeding tank as soon as possible. The longer the water and plants age the better. Hopefully you will have infusoria and other micro critters to feed fry during their first few days after free swimming.

Bare bottom tank/tub. Since it's your first time, I'd suggest at least a 10g. A 20g would be better (you won't have to move the fry). Water level is personal preference but half filled would be better because you won't need to siphon, just ad a gallon or so every day once you start feeding. You definitely want an adjustable heater to keep the temperature stable.

I use a lot of live plants for hide outs, stacked in one half or one corner of the tank. Plus a few stem plants floating all over the tank. I don't use any decoration unless I need extra hiding places and nothing big (like 2 aquarium plant pots). A floating plant or a big leafed plant that grows to the top/surface can serve as nesting places. Otherwise they will just nest anywhere. I simply cover the area where I want them to nest with a tile or a piece of wood.

Filters will help a great deal, but it's optional.
................

What do you want to know about genetic? There are 2 basic shades of red - cherry red (dark red) and a bright red. You can breed any cherry red to another cherry red to get the same color. But you need non red genes (NR - carried by most red cambodian colors) to make bright red. So that's cherry red x red cambodian. Then you choose the fry with the colors you want and inbreed them. ..... breeding 2 bright red does not produce 100% bright red. So you will always have at least 2 color types when working with bright red.
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Old 07-13-2012, 05:16 PM   #4 
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I heard infusoria is microscopic or close to that and that i should only feed them infusoria for the first few days and then go on to vinegar eels and bbs. Is this true?
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Old 07-13-2012, 05:19 PM   #5 
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For the first few days, insuforia is pretty much the only thing small enough to fit in their mouths. They will soon eat all the insuforia in a tank if not fed anything else. It's just easier to measure how much they are eating once they are big enough to eat larger foods.
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