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Old 08-06-2012, 03:14 PM   #11 
GamingGal
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I have betta pellets from Petsmart. Doubt they're the best thing for them, but they seem to like them fairly decent. I also feed them bloodworms which they quite like.
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Old 08-06-2012, 03:14 PM   #12 
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The male and female should be conditioned separately before before breeding for 2 weekday. During this time they shouldn't be able to see each other.
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Old 08-06-2012, 03:22 PM   #13 
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well, the fry wont eat pellets or powdered food, live food is a MUST for the fry. and its also best to condition the parents with it.
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:02 PM   #14 
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+1 you should be feeding these guys exclusively frozen blood worms and frozen mosquito larva. They need all the energy they can get.
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:33 PM   #15 
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I just bought Mysis Shrimp to feed them along with the bloodworms. Anyways, I've conditioned the adults apart before putting them in the divided tank.
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Old 08-07-2012, 03:03 AM   #16 
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From the sounds of it, all they needed was time. The whole ritual could take a few hours to a week. The embracing could take a full day..... all depending on the individual pair.

You will not see breeding bars on the female since she is light colored. As long as she is flirt swimming, that means she is in breeding mode.

Be sure you can keep fry tanks warm. Adding warm water is not good. Fluctuations in water parameters does more harm than good. Steady pram, though not ideal, is better because your bettas wouldn't have to constantly adjust themselves to the new and changing prams. IME, breeding temps range between 26C - 30C (They are harder to breed in Lower temps than higher).

Good luck.
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Old 08-09-2012, 11:53 PM   #17 
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So, I'm still having issues.

After changing the water since it got super murky, the male finally rebuilt his nest and made it good size. The female seems to be bursting with eggs. The male flares at her through the divider and she returns it if I remember correctly.

I put the girl in with the male and they began the whole chasing and nipping thing. He nipped her back tail pretty bad (it was nipped a bit from a previous attempt). Eventually she holed up behind the silk plant thing in a headstand like position. I was worried and gently touched her and she swam away, ending up in the bottom of the tank, headstand like position. It worried me so I took her out. I didn't want her fins getting messed up anymore and risking her getting hurt.

Was the headstand position good? Also, my male's bubblenest keeps breaking. Should I add in a styrofoam cup for it to anchor to?
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Old 08-10-2012, 12:15 AM   #18 
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generally people wait 2 weeks to month before trying again. She might just not want to mate with him.
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Old 08-10-2012, 12:53 AM   #19 
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It may be best to give them a month or so, giving the female a chance to heal. Next time try leaving the female in a lamp chimney or something for 2 - 3 days before releasing her.

Females do that - chase game until the male nips/bites then the female goes and hide. As long as she eventually comes out to the male, she's OK.
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Old 08-10-2012, 01:06 AM   #20 
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One of the problems with using your housing tank as your spawn tank is that the male will feel his territory has been invaded when you introduce the female and you run the risk of him being very violent towards her. By using a different tank, they will be in neutral territory and the spawn will go smoothly.
You asked for advice, so please use it.
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