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Old 08-13-2012, 01:35 AM   #1 
missketie
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Betta Water Change

I've had my Betta for 2 weeks. At first I had him in a 1 gallon tank with live plants but no filter , and I was making 2 water changes a week. 1 50% on Wednesdays and 1 100% on Saturdays.

Now, I have him in a 5.5 gallon tank, with a filter and live plants. So should I keep with the same water change routine or do I have to make a new schedule? If so, how often should I change the water and how much water should I change?

I just put him there today, so I wanted to know more information on how to change water for a bigger tank.
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Old 08-13-2012, 01:57 AM   #2 
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Originally Posted by missketie View Post
I've had my Betta for 2 weeks. At first I had him in a 1 gallon tank with live plants but no filter , and I was making 2 water changes a week. 1 50% on Wednesdays and 1 100% on Saturdays.

Now, I have him in a 5.5 gallon tank, with a filter and live plants. So should I keep with the same water change routine or do I have to make a new schedule? If so, how often should I change the water and how much water should I change?

I just put him there today, so I wanted to know more information on how to change water for a bigger tank.
You need to get a test kit so you can watch the ammonia and nitrites. If they are fine.. then no w/c.. If anything but zero.. water change till it is 0.

Ammonia=1 and a 50 % water change still equals .5. and you are still toxic. You would need to do 90% to get the level close to zero. Same with nitrites. Without a good test kit you are flying blind. PLUS.. it will tell you where you are in the tank cycle.
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Old 08-13-2012, 03:51 AM   #3 
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Originally Posted by Basement Bettas View Post
You need to get a test kit so you can watch the ammonia and nitrites. If they are fine.. then no w/c.. If anything but zero.. water change till it is 0.

Ammonia=1 and a 50 % water change still equals .5. and you are still toxic. You would need to do 90% to get the level close to zero. Same with nitrites. Without a good test kit you are flying blind. PLUS.. it will tell you where you are in the tank cycle.
Would you mind recommending a good test kit?

I have the Mardel water test kit, it comes with strips that you dip into the water. But I didn't realize the strips don't test for ammonia until I opened it. So I can't return it anymore which really sucks.

Anyway, before I put my Betta into the bigger tank I checked the water.

My nitrites, nitrates, and total hardness were at 0. The alkalinity was at 120 which the chart said is in between moderate and ideal. And, the pH was at 6.5

I don't know how much ammonia is in there, but my fish seems okay so far. It's only been a few hours since I put him there though...
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Old 08-13-2012, 04:09 AM   #4 
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Originally Posted by missketie View Post
Would you mind recommending a good test kit?

I have the Mardel water test kit, it comes with strips that you dip into the water. But I didn't realize the strips don't test for ammonia until I opened it. So I can't return it anymore which really sucks.

Anyway, before I put my Betta into the bigger tank I checked the water.

My nitrites, nitrates, and total hardness were at 0. The alkalinity was at 120 which the chart said is in between moderate and ideal. And, the pH was at 6.5

I don't know how much ammonia is in there, but my fish seems okay so far. It's only been a few hours since I put him there though...
I like api tests... get the master test kit and you can learn a lot about you water .
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Old 08-13-2012, 06:33 AM   #5 
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With a 6.5 pH you don't have much ammonia that isn't turning to harmless ammonium and your alkalinity (buffer) should keep it pretty stable. You might PM Littlebettafish and ask her about low pH softwater conditions.

For cycling purposes it's better to have >7.0pH. But check with her.

Most keepers here use the API master freshwater test kit. It's only $20 on Amazon.
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Old 08-13-2012, 12:58 PM   #6 
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With a 6.5 pH you don't have much ammonia that isn't turning to harmless ammonium and your alkalinity (buffer) should keep it pretty stable. You might PM Littlebettafish and ask her about low pH softwater conditions.

For cycling purposes it's better to have >7.0pH. But check with her.

Most keepers here use the API master freshwater test kit. It's only $20 on Amazon.
Wont cycle at a low ph.. the bacteria die off. 7.0 or higher is needed ideally
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Old 08-13-2012, 01:13 PM   #7 
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BB is a master water person...I'd listen to her...she has her water down to a science...quite literally! When she moved here to Texas, she had MAJOR water issues. After months of no spawns or small spawns, she has it fixed. Don't go chasing your pH...it will cause more problems than it will solve.
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